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Although general mixed communities remain the most popular freshwater aquaria, many fishkeepers are drawn to certain themes. African cichlids are perhaps the best-known “niche” within the aquarium hobby, but there are many others, and recently we’ve been expanding our selection to help you explore different kinds of fish communities. Here are a few directions you might try.

1. PEACEFUL CICHLIDS

Yes, you read that right. These cichlids get along with most community fish – platies, tetras, gouramies, angels (which are also cichlids), catfish and such. They still should not go with helpless things like goldfish or bettas, and you must remember that fish don’t read fish books, so they don’t always act as is typical for their species. Many of these top out at around 4 inches, making them suitable centerpiece fish for 29 gallon tanks. They are fun because they show the intelligence, personality, territorial displays and parental care of cichlids without all the bloodshed.

Keyhole cichlids, blue acaras, and orange chromides all fit this description. Larger fish (55 gal +) but still on the peaceful end can include chocolate cichlids, jurupari and other geophagus types, and festivums. Slightly pushier but still considered “community” cichlids are severums, firemouths, uarus and blood parrots. Going smaller, dwarf cichlids that are normally OK with community fish can include rams, kribensis, thomasi and apistogrammas. Some of these fish prefer planted tanks, while others will uproot plants; ask us about planting and landscaping for the species you choose.

2. MICRO FISH

The “edge” tanks, picotopes and other desktop systems have opened up a niche for fish that stay under 1 inch. The scarlet badis has been very popular, as have the various algae eating shrimp. We’re adding other fish that will fit those communities including various micro-rasboras and small tetras, featherfin rainbowfish, jewel glassfish, killifish, freshwater gobies, pygmy cories and tiny gourami and betta species. Some of these are sturdy beginner fish, while others ae a bit delicate and require some special attention to food or water chemistry. Other familiar fish will also fit here – guppies, neons or cardinals, harlequin rasboras. Watch out for dwarf frogs; they will go with some of these but their mouths are bigger than you think!

Many of these fish will require a heater; if your micro tank does not have one, we have heaters that are the perfect size. Good plants for these setups include Anubias nana, banana plants, and almost any plant with “dwarf” in its name.

3. BRACKISH AQUARIUMS

Where the river meets the sea you’ll find a unique environment. In estuaries and coastal marshes the water is not fresh or salt, it’s a mixture that varies with the tides. This unique environment has produced fish that are found nowhere else. Archer fish that spit water at flying insects, puffers that inflate when frightened, even mudskippers that climb out of the water are all brackish fish. Some familiar freshwater fish do very well in brackish tanks, including mollies and other livebearers. Most freshwater families have one or more brackish or brackish-tolerant species; there is a brackish cichlid, a rainbowfish, a catfish and a gourami.

Brackish water fish tend to be very resilient; as long as their water has a bit of salt in it, they are easy to keep. Some are fussy about their food; you’ll probably need frozen foods to keep them happy. Some (puffers, scats, monos, archers, tigerfish) are active and competitive, others (glassfish, gobies, halfbeaks, mollies) are more peaceful. If you like hearing people say “Wow, I’ve never seen that before!”, a brackish tank may be right for you.

Disposable filter cartridges should be replaced monthly. Filters recirculate the same water over and over. Regardless of where particulates collect: the aquarium bottom or the filter, they will be broken down to produce ammonia. Monthly replacement will remove the particulate from the aquarium and keep flow rate from slowing down due to clogging.

• Reusable and/or biological filter media should be washed in water taken from the aquarium. Chlorine in tap water is lethal to nitrifying bacteria.

• Micron cartridges should be cleaned by soaking in a solution of unscented household bleach and water (one part bleach to five parts water) for several hours. Rinse thoroughly under pressure. As an added precaution, they can be soaked in a solution of water and dechlorinator prior to being reused.

• Chemical filter media (i.e. carbon, Ammo-carb, and ammonia chips) should be replaced each month. These remove molecules of organic compounds from the water until the surface area becomes saturated. Once saturated, these media are no longer effective and may begin releasing compounds back into the water.

• Several manufacturers now offer rechargeable chemical media as an alternative to carbon. These should be used and recharged in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

• IMPORTANT: If for any reason the power filter has been shut off for two hours or less, biological, chemical and mechanical filter media should be thoroughly rinsed before restarting the filter. To preserve existing nitrifying bacteria, rinse the biological filter media with water taken from the aquarium. If the power filter has been off for more than two hours, the mechanical and chemical filter media must be discarded and the biological media thoroughly rinsed. Toxic, anaerobic bacteria will be present.

Here are some important advice that will make your whole aquarium experience quite simple and successful.

 

Putting your pond to bed for winter doesn’t need to be an arduous process. Sure, it’s sad to say goodbye to your finned friends for a few months, but following a few simple tips will ensure that your fish joyfully greet you again in the spring.

Remove leaves and debris
Putting a pond net over your water feature before leaves start falling from trees is the easiest way to contain and manage leaf control. Once all the leaves have fallen, simply roll up the net, discard the leaves, and put the net away until the next time it’s needed.

If you didn’t install netting, you’ll probably have a build up of leaves and debris that need to be removed. A long-handled pond net makes an easy job of scooping the debris from the bottom of the pond. If you leave the debris on the bottom of the pond, you’ll be creating a bigger mess to face in the spring.

Trim dead or dying foliage
Trimming dead foliage helps remove excessive organic debris that would otherwise decompose in the water. Cut back hardy water lilies just above the base of the plant and cut back marginal plants that could droop over into the water.

Add cold water bacteria
Add cold water bacteria, such as Microbelift Autumn Winter Prep  to help keep pond water clean and clear. Cold Water Beneficial Bacteria contains concentrated strains of beneficial bacteria designed to work in temperatures lower than 50 degrees. Regular use of  Microbelift Autumn Winter Prep will help maintain water quality and clarity, as well as dramatically reduce spring maintenance by digesting debris that may accumulate over the winter months.

If you leave your pond running
Operating your pond and waterfalls during the winter will provide beautiful ice formations for you to enjoy throughout the frosty season. Keep in mind, there will be a bit of maintenance required this time of year, such as topping off the pond due to evaporation. Also, you’ll need to make sure ice formations don’t create dams that can cause unnecessary water loss over the edge of the stream.

If you shut down the pond
Many homeowners in northern climes choose to shut down the pond for the winter months. If you choose this option, remember to:

• Remove the pump from your pond and store it in a warm place like the garage or the basement. Protection from the cold lengthens the life of your pump.
• Drain the water out of the plumbing. This prevents standing water from freezing and expanding, potentially cracking the pipes that connect your filtration system.
• Remove and clean the filter media and spray them thoroughly with a garden hose. Store them in the garage or the basement along with the pump.
• Oxygenate the water by placing a small re-circulating pump, such as the AquaForce on the top shelf of your pond. Oxygenating the water is not only for the sake of your fish, but it also helps keep a hole open in the ice when the surface of your pond starts freezing. This hole allows harmful gasses to escape, and oxygen to get in.
• If it gets really cold where you live, you may consider adding a deicer. At extremely low temperatures, the oxygenation of the water may not be sufficient to keep a hole open in the ice.
• That’s where the deicer saves the day. It complements the bubbler and, together, they’ll keep most any pond open.

Ensure healthy fish before winter
A well-balanced diet creates healthy, happy fish. You want to make sure your fish are in good condition before they go into hibernation. When the water temperature falls below 60 degrees, the metabolism and digestion of your fish begins to slow down. A high fiber Cold Water Fish Food is scientifically formulated to properly nourish your fish during these lower temperatures. Be sure to stop feeding your fish when water temperature falls below 50 degrees.

Taking a little time and effort to prepare your pond for winter not only helps your fish survive their winter slumber, but makes your spring maintenance much easier. Be sure to follow these winter guidelines so you can experience the greatest joy from your pond when spring rolls around once again.

 

The Banded Trochus Snail is touted by aquarists of all experience levels for numerous reasons. Like other members of the Trochidae family, the Banded Trochus is easy to care for and very adept at working as your aquarium’s cleanup crew. The Banded Trochus Snail normally has a black foot that is an off white/tan color on the underside of the foot. It boasts a pale gray, top- or pyramid-shaped shell. Thanks to the maroon stripes or bands on its shell, the Banded Trochus Snail adds a unique flair to any marine system.

Also known as the Trochus, Turban or Top Shell, or Turban Snail, this species of the Trochus genus is the true Banded Trochus Snail from Indonesia. Perhaps what many aquarists appreciate the most is the ease with which Banded Trochus Snails seem to breed in the home aquarium. It reproduces sexually by releasing gametes into the water column. The gametes appear as a cloudy, white substance. Breeding activity is usually sparked by changes in lighting or water conditions. After the gametes join, they develop into free-swimming larvae that eventually settle into your aquarium substrate and develop into mature snails over a period of a few months.

The Banded Trochus Snail is well suited for reef aquariums. As a general rule, you can keep one snail for every two to three gallons of aquarium water. The Banded Trochus Snail is very peaceful and because of its shell shape, it is not easily eaten by crabs. Unlike its close relative, the Tectus Snail, the Banded Trochus Snail can right itself when knocked over.

The Banded Trochus Snail does best in a well-established aquarium with ample hiding places and room to forage. It naturally feeds on algae, cyanobacteria, and diatoms amongst your live rock, substrate, and aquarium glass. The Banded Trochus is also an effective film algae eater. However, they only passively graze on other nuisance algae, such as hair algae.

Like other invertebrates, Trochus sp. is sensitive to high nitrate levels and intolerant of copper-based medications. It requires a gradual acclimation process, preferably the drip acclimation method. If food levels are insufficient in your aquarium, supplement their diet with dried seaweed. Though most Banded Trochus Snails seem to breed easily, there are no distinguishing characteristics between males and females.

 

One of your main goals as a pond builder should be to create a system that delivers top-notch water quality. In order to do this, it’s helpful to be familiar with principles of water chemistry needed to keep these systems in excellent shape.

Water chemistry is, as you may know, an enormous topic. Indeed, fully understanding and mastering its intricacies can be a lifetime pursuit. In the case of installing and maintaining natural water features, however, success can be achieved if you’re familiar with a few key constituents in water — including pH and nutrients — that support plant and animal life.     
       

Hydrogen Power

Most of us have heard of pH, but few pause long enough to learn what this common chemical term is all about.  In essence, pH (which stands for “potential of hydrogen”) describes the relation of hydrogen ions to hydroxyl ions on a 14-point scale. In simple terms, the higher the hydrogen content and the lower the hydroxyl content, the more acidic the water. Conversely, the higher the hydroxyl content and the lower the hydrogen content, the more basic the water becomes.

On that scale, a pH of 7 is neutral. This means that the hydrogen and hydroxyl ions are in complete balance. Numbers higher than 7 are called basic (or, mistakenly, “alkaline” or “hard”), while numbers below 7 are termed acidic.

Typical ponds exist in a pH range from 6 to 11, which covers ground from the slightly acidic to the strongly basic. A pH of 8.2, for example, is highly acceptable for pond water, while a pH of 4 (which is acidic enough to dissolve nails) would be unacceptable if your aim is to sustain aquatic life.

Many factors influence the pH values found in water, with the presence of dissolved materials and metals being perhaps the most influential. These substances are commonly called buffers, and we typically talk about them in terms of alkalinity and hardness.

Alkalinity: When present at high levels, alkaline materials tend to hold the water’s pH at higher levels. The concentration of these buffers is expressed as parts per million (ppm).

Hardness: This is a specific form of alkalinity and refers to the amount of dissolved calcium, calcium carbonate and magnesium in the water. Water is termed “hard” when levels of these materials reach 300 ppm or higher.

When present at higher levels, these buffering factors tend to stabilize pH. In fact, when hardness and alkalinity values are high, it is less likely a pond will experience significant fluctuations in pH.

Aquatic Nutrition

Beyond pH, there are other contributors to water quality that must be considered right up front, namely, the macronutrients and micronutrients that help sustain life in aquatic systems. In all, 17 of these essential ingredients — three macronutrients and 14 micronutrients —  need to be included in ponds and streams.

The macronutrients are what we find in commercial fertilizer mixes. When you see a fertilizer that says 20-10-20, for example, these numbers refer to the percentage (by volume) of nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P), and potassium (K) in the mix. These are the nutrients required in the largest quantities for proper plant growth.

Nitrogen: In a pond, ammonia and nitrate are the most common forms of available nitrogen. High levels of either of those substances are good for plants (especially algae) but are toxic to most fish, so it’s best if they are undetectable or held at very low levels.

Phosphorus:  Again, in a pond situation it is best to have low or non-existent levels of phosphorus, which appears in the water in the form of phosphates. Although in the case of a pond,  these substances are not problematic for fish, they do invite prolific algae growth and therefore should be held at minimal levels.

Potassium: It’s rare to find high levels of potassium in pond ecosystems, but it wouldn’t be a problem in any event, because potassium is a key to both plant and fish metabolisms.

The other category you need to consider features the micronutrients. Fourteen of them are required for life:  boron (B), carbon (C), calcium (Ca), chlorine (Cl), copper (Cu), iron (Fe), hydrogen (H), magnesium (Mg), manganese (Mn), molybdenum (Mo), nickel (Ni), oxygen (O), sodium (Na), sulfur (S) and zinc (Z). Each is required in different ratios for different members of a pond-based ecosystem, and each plays a highly specialized role on the cellular level for all forms of life.

 

Although general mixed communities remain the most popular freshwater aquaria, many fishkeepers are drawn to certain themes.  African cichlids are perhaps the best-known “niche” within the aquarium hobby, but there are many others, and recently we’ve been expanding our selection to help you explore different kinds of fish communities.  Here are a few directions you might try.

 

1. PEACEFUL CICHLIDS

Yes, you read that right.  These cichlids get along with most community fish – platies, tetras, gouramies, angels (which are also cichlids), catfish and such.  They still should not go with helpless things like goldfish or bettas, and you must remember that fish don’t read fish books, so they don’t always act as is typical for their species.  Many of these top out at around 4 inches, making them suitable centerpiece fish for 29 gallon tanks.  They are fun because they show the intelligence, personality, territorial displays and parental care of cichlids without all the bloodshed.

 

Keyhole cichlids, blue acaras, and orange chromides all fit this description.  Larger fish (55 gal +) but still on the peaceful end can include chocolate cichlids, jurupari and other geophagus types, and festivums.  Slightly pushier but still considered “community” cichlids are severums, firemouths, uarus and blood parrots.  Going smaller, dwarf cichlids that are normally OK with community fish can include rams, kribensis, thomasi and apistogrammas.  Some of these fish prefer planted tanks, while others will uproot plants; ask us about planting and landscaping for the species you choose.

 

2. MICRO FISH

The “edge” tanks, picotopes and other desktop systems have opened up a niche for fish that stay under 1 inch.  The scarlet badis has been very popular, as have the various algae eating shrimp.  We’re adding other fish that will fit those communities including various micro-rasboras and small tetras, featherfin rainbowfish, jewel glassfish, killifish, freshwater gobies, pygmy cories and tiny gourami and betta species.  Some of these are sturdy beginner fish, while others ae a bit delicate and require some special attention to food or water chemistry.  Other familiar fish will also fit here – guppies, neons or cardinals, harlequin rasboras.  Watch out for dwarf frogs; they will go with some of these but their mouths are bigger than you think!  

 

Many of these fish will require a heater; if your micro tank does not have one, we have heaters that are the perfect size.  Good plants for these setups include Anubias nana, banana plants, and almost any plant with “dwarf” in its name.  

 

3. BRACKISH AQUARIUMS

Where the river meets the sea you’ll find a unique environment.   In estuaries and coastal marshes the water is not fresh or salt, it’s a mixture that varies with the tides.  This unique environment has produced fish that are found nowhere else.  Archer fish that spit water at flying insects, puffers that inflate when frightened, even mudskippers that climb out of the water are all brackish fish.  Some familiar freshwater fish do very well in brackish tanks, including mollies and other livebearers.  Most freshwater families have one or more brackish or brackish-tolerant species; there is a brackish cichlid, a rainbowfish, a catfish and a gourami.

 

Brackish water fish tend to be very resilient; as long as their water has a bit of salt in it, they are easy to keep.  Some are fussy about their food; you’ll probably need frozen foods to keep them happy.  Some (puffers, scats, monos, archers, tigerfish) are active and competitive, others (glassfish, gobies, halfbeaks, mollies) are more peaceful.  If you like hearing people say “Wow, I’ve never seen that before!”, a brackish tank may be right for you.

 

The marginal plant group is the largest aquatic plant group by far, containing both hardy and tropical plants. Most of them are true perennials and come back year after year, like your favorite Daylily or Black-Eyed Susan.

Marginal plants serve many functions, such as adding beauty and providing valuable filtration. They are called “marginals” because they typically grow around the edges or “margins” of a pond or lake.

Marginal plants typically thrive in wet soil of standing water that covers the crown or base of the plant by as little as two inches and up to as much as six inches.

Here are some fun facts about a few popular marginals:

Horsetail
Horsetail (Equisetum) was a major part of the vegetation during prehistoric times, as it is said to have been the size of trees, making up huge horsetail forests. The species we see today growing in our ponds are much smaller.

Creeping Jenny
The trailing stems of Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’) have round, chartreuse leaves that make an excellent ground cover for the edge of the pond or container water garden. The color of this plant is a great accent to an assortment of other foliage or flower colors, but looks especially interesting next to deep purple.

Dwarf Variegated Sweetflag
Also known as golden Japanese sweetflag (Acorus gramineus ‘Ogon’), this plant is ideal for container water gardens and water gardens alike. It’s extremely flexible, as it can be grown with its toes in the water or partially submerged. The beautiful foliage is light green and highlighted with bright yellow stripes, remaining beautiful all season and sometimes through the winter. An all-around great plant that adds a bright, cheerful spot to any water feature!

Blue Iris
Many water gardeners enjoy the elegant splendor of the aquatic iris, which is among the first plants to bloom in the spring.  Aquatic irises comprise such a large and diverse group – there are literally hundreds, if not thousands of cultivated and natural hybrids. The blue flag iris is a native plant that can grow up to four feet tall!  A wetland lover, the blue flag’s large flowers are breathtaking, ranging in shades from pale blue to purple. 

Taro
Dramatic and elegant, Taro (Colocasia spp.) enjoy hot, humid weather and love to be fertilized.  Heart-shaped leaves on stalks up to 48” tall make Taro an ideal choice for water gardens, container gardens, and bog gardens. Ranging in color from burgundy-black to green velvet, this plant offers a striking backdrop for shorter aquatics.  Add this specimen to your pond for architectural interest.

Countless more marginal plants are available to spruce up your pond and you’re sure to find favorites that aren’t listed here. Just be sure to follow the grower’s instructions for the plants you select and you’ll be well on your way to naturalizing your water garden.

Question: How Much Should I Feed My Fish?

Answer: In answer to the reader question:
“The last few cans of fish food I bought said Do Not Overfeed. Why is that a problem, and how much should I feed my fish?”

Overfeeding is the most common mistake fish owners make. Overfeeding clogs the filter, and breaks down into toxins that are harmful to fish. Hence the warnings on the packages.

In nature fish eat whenever they are hungry and food is available. If food sources are plentiful, they will eat several times a day. On the other hand, if food sources are scarce, they might go for days between meals. For this reason, fish are very opportunistic and will eat whenever they have a chance. That means that if you offer them food, they will usually gobble it up even if they aren’t starving. Keep that in mind the next time your fish ‘beg’ for food. Fish quickly learn who brings the food to the tank and will jump at the chance to be fed, even if they are not in dire need of food.

How Often
So how often, and how much should fish be fed? Frequency will vary based on the type of fish. In general most fish do quite well on one feeding per day. However, some owners prefer to feed their fish twice a day. Regardless of one or two feedings, the key is to keep the feedings very small. The timing is not critical, with the exception of nocturnal feeders, such as certain catfish. If you have nocturnal fish in your tank, be sure to feed them just before turning the lights out at night.

There are some exceptions to the once per day feeding rule. Herbivores (vegetarians) need to eat frequently because they do not have large stomachs to hold a lot of food. In nature they would graze all day long on plants. They should be given several small feedings a day, or provided with live plants they can nibble. Newly hatched fry and young fish not fully grown, require more frequent feedings of special foods designed for fry.

How Much
As for how much food to feed, a good rule of thumb is to feed no more than the fish will consume completely in less than five minutes. When in doubt, underfeed! You can always give them another small feeding if necessary. However, if you overfeed the uneaten food will produce by-products which can be harmful to the fish. In the event you do overfeed, promptly remove the uneaten food using a siphon or net.

As a final note, keep in mind that not only the amount but the type of food is important. Below is a link to a handy table that shows the proper type of diet for most popular aquarium fish.

 

Freshwater fish are found in many different types of habitats in nature. Some species are found in cold, fast moving rapids while others may live in warm, nearly stagnant water. Sometimes this can occur even among the same species. Some species of marine fish are known to swim into coastal estuaries to spawn and as the offspring mature, although born in freshwater, they gradually move into the ocean. Some Neo-tropical cichlids venture out into the sea to visit coastal islands to feed and return to their freshwater habitats at the end of the day.

In short, most freshwater fish must be able to adapt to changes in temperature, changes in pH, and/or dissolved solids or organics in their water because seasonal temperature and rainfall (or lack of rainfall) or any number of other factors may alter chemistry in the rivers and streams in which they have evolved.

The important thing to remember is that, although there are exceptions, the vast majority of tropical freshwater fish commonly found in the hobby are produced in captivity (either on fish farms or in breeding warehouses) and will thrive in the following water parameters.

pH: 6.8-7.2

Temperature: 77 to 82 degrees F

Alkalinity (KH): 80 to 180 parts per million (ppm)

Ammonia: ZERO

Nitrite: ZERO; nitrite is toxic at a pH of 7.0 or lower.

Nitrate: as low as possible.

Salinity: as a general rule, 1.003 ppt is adequate. A few freshwater species (Discus and Danios most notably) are not salt-tolerant. A planted aquarium should not have salt added to the water as most plants are intolerant of salt.

The above water parameters are the ideal conditions at which general community freshwater fish should be maintained. Tetras, Barbs, Danios, Rainbow fish, many Livebearers, Catfish and Plecos, Loaches and Botias, Gouramis, peaceful Neo-tropical cichlids (Angelfish, Severums, Eartheaters, etc) and the many dwarf riverine cichlids (found in both hemispheres) make up the majority of tropical fish commonly found in the hobby and will all live together peacefully as long as they are provided with enough room and food. All of these fish will enjoy an aquarium that includes live plants, although some species will dig into the substrate and others may nibble on the leaves and roots.

Brackish water fish (puffers, dragon gobies, some eels, etc) should be kept at a pH between 7.5 to 8.0 with a KH of 120 to 180 ppm. Salinity should measure 1.005 to 1.010. The temperature should be between 75 and 79 degrees F.

Discus are a type of South American cichlid. They must be kept very warm (87 to 90 degrees F) and will not tolerate even moderate concentrations of dissolved organics (i.e. nitrates) for long. 50% water changes at least twice a week are necessary to keep them healthy and maintain them in an aquarium.

The Rift Lake cichlids of South Africa commonly present in the hobby originate from the lakes Malawi, Tanganyika, and Victoria. The vast majority of the specimens found in the trade are bred in captivity. Rift Lake cichlids are best kept in groups in aquariums of 75 gallons or more with plenty of rockwork and caves. They should be kept in alkaline water with a pH of 7.5 to 9.0 and a salinity of 1.005. The temperature should be 75 to 79 degrees F.

TANKBUSTERS

There are several species of fish that remain popular that grow too large and/or are too aggressive for the average home aquarium. Arowanas, Pacu, Piranha, Gar-pikes, giant growing Catfish, and certain species of Neo-tropical cichlids (festae, umbriferum, dovii, peacock bass, etc) and Tanganyikan cichlids (frontosa, b. microlepis) will either grow too large to maintain or are simply too territorial to be kept in all but the largest (125 gallons at minimum; preferably larger) home aquariums. All of these fish are cute when they are babies, but unless the hobbyist is willing to provide adequate space for them as they grow, these fish should not be chosen for the home aquarium.

FRESHWATER FISH FAMILIES

Anabantids:

These include the Bettas and Gouramis. Almost all of these fish are good for a general community tank and will thrive in the water parameters listed above.

Catfish:

This group ranges in size from small peaceful Corydoras to giant growing Mekong and European Wels catfish. This group also includes the popular Plecos and Panaques. Some catfish are nick-named “sharks” (i.e. Black Fin sharks, Iredescent sharks). As a general rule the small species are great general community fish. As the larger species mature, they will usually eat their tankmates if they can.

Characins:

This group includes the Tetras, which are a generally hardy, schooling fish. They are happiest in a large shoal of their own kind. Most species of Tetras do not grow large and can be kept in the general community.

Pacu, Piranha, Hydrolicus, and the Tiger Pikes are also in this family. Because of their size at maturity and/or predatory nature, these species are not a good choice for most home aquariums.

Cichlds:

These include Angelfish, Discus, Severums, Oscars, as well as the Jack Dempsey, Green Terror, Jaguar, Red Devil, Red Terror, Umbee, Wolf and Midas cichlids from the new world and the Rift Lake cichlids from South Africa. With the exception of small growing river species (which are found in both hemispheres), these fish are not considered general community and grow large and aggressive. All cichlids are aggressive to some degree when spawning; some species will annihilate all tankmates to protect their spawn.

Water parameters vary with the species.

There are a few hybrid cichlids such as the so called “Blood Parrots” and Flower Horn cichlids that are popular as well. These hybrids should not be kept in a community unless the tank is over 100 gallons.

Cyprinids:

This is another large and varied family of fish that includes Barbs, Danios, Loaches and Botias, so called “sharks“ (Rainbow, Red Tail, Black, Bala, etc.) and Rainbow fish. Almost all of these fish will be happiest in a large school of their own kind. Generally, water parameters are the same as mentioned above. The smaller species are good general community fish but some Danios and Rainbow fish will be sensitive to even small amounts of salt in the water.

Koi and Goldfish are also in this family. Koi and Goldfish grow large and like cooler water so they aren’t a good choice for a community tank.

Livebearers:

This group includes Mollies, Platties, Guppies, and Swordtails. They are best kept in tanks with other livebearers; however they may also do well in a planted aquarium or in a peaceful brackish habitat. Mollies will actually thrive in saltwater.

The text above is intended to be a general guideline; always research the specific requirements of any species of fish you want to keep or breed in your aquarium.

1. 
   Never clean anything with soap.  Use only water.  If anything has ever touched soap, throw it away.  Avoid
   toxins introduced on your hands: hand lotion, gasoline or motor oil, tobacco.

 

2. Always dechlorinate your tap water.  Make sure new water is the same temperature as your old water.

 

3. Filters need to run all the time.  If your old filter is too noisy, get a new one; don’t turn it off at night!

 

4.  Stocking:  Start with a LOW population: about 1 gourami-sized, 2 platy-sized or 4 neon-sized fish per 10 gallons.

 

5.  The first month is the hardest.  For the first 30 days:
6. Do NOT add more fish, even if some die.
7. Feed only once per day.  Food should be completely gone in 30 seconds, or you gave them too much.
8. Don’t do any water changes unless you have an emergency (if you do, call us!).  Yes, do replace water lost to evaporation.
9. Can’t wait a month?  We have products to help speed this process (bottled good bacteria).

 

6. After the first month, bring us a cup of tank water for a free water test.  We’ll let you know if you’re ready for more fish, and help you choose fish that get along together.  You can add a few fish every week until your tank is fully stocked; don’t put too many in at once.

 

7. After the first month, begin regular tank maintenance.  Remove and replace 1/4 of the water every week, using a gravel cleaner.  Always dechlorinate and match temperature.

 

8. After the first month, a good feeding schedule is twice daily. Feed SMALL portions.  A more varied diet will give you healthier, more colorful fish; ask for suggestions.

 

9. Depending on the brand, your filter probably has a cartridge that should be replaced monthly, and another part that should NEVER be cleaned or replaced; it’s a home for good bacteria that your tank needs to thrive.  Ask us if you’re not sure.

 

 

1. Adaptability

Salt water fish generally need more tank consistency, maintenance, and monitoring than their fresh water counterparts. This makes sense considering the ocean provides a more stable environment for its inhabitants than does a freshwater body of water which often changes in size, depth, and temperature. For your first fish community, consider those salt water fish that are more resilient and can adapt to small changes and fluctuations in temperature, salt levels, or oxygen content. Our knowledgeable staff can help you with ways to keep any fluctuations at a minimum.

 

2. Cost

Though some of these fish are brilliantly colored, uniquely shaped, and capture attention and eye-appeal, they are a significant investment.

Imagine the extra heartache you might feel if you found your two hundred dollar fish floating on top of the water as opposed to your five dollar fish. Obviously, you do not want to lose any fish while starting your aquarium, but inevitably, it happens. At Fintastic, there are many wonderful fish selections to be had at around twenty dollars if cost is an issue for you.

 

3. Compatibility

Saltwater fish can be rather aggressive and it is important to consider fish that will be able to get along with other fish in the tank. Some are definitely more compatible than others. At Fintastic, you can get great input from friendly sales associates to help you make an informed decision on the types of fish that get along with one another.

 

4. Feeding requirements

There are saltwater fish that can be extremely high maintenance when it comes time to feed them. Some need live food, or food that has to be presented in a certain manner, while some fish will pretty much eat whatever food you put in there for him. You will appreciate an easy going eater more than you might think. Our Fintastic staff is more than willing to get you the right foods for any fish you pick out and even demonstrate the particular fish’s feeding behavior.

 

5. Fish size

Salt water fish are more affected by tank size; the rule of thumb is approximately one inch of fish for every four to five gallons of water.

Though this estimate is conservative, it is important that you purchase fish knowing the size that they will reach when they are full grown. Some fish will grow from one inch to three or four inches, whereas other one inch fish may grow to eight or nine inches in size. We can assist you in finding a tank large enough to be able to accommodate your favorite fish when it reaches its adult size or help pick fish that will stay a comfortable size for the tank you have.

 

Fintastic can help you on your road to success by utilizing a strategy that keeps these five important points in mind. So stop by Fintastic and set up that dream tank you’ve always wanted and feel safe relying on our great staff to help you get there.

 

No homeowner wants to look out their window and see green or tea-colored water in their backyard pond, which is why creating a healthy low-maintenance ecosystem, is so important to any contractor who installs water features.  The last thing you need during your busy season is a barrage of phone calls complaining about dirty pond water.  You promised your customer a low-maintenance water feature so make sure you’re incorporating adequate filtration to keep the water clear and customers happy.

In addition to plants, fish, aeration, rocks and gravel, a low-maintenance ecosystem pond requires adequate filtration to help keep the water crystal clear.  Three types of pond filters are available on the market and include biological, mechanical, and sterilizers.  Biological filters use bacteria to break down pond wastes, converting them into less harmful compounds that can be used as aquatic plant fertilizers.  Mechanical filters trap and remove debris and sediment.  Water sterilizers pass water through a tube that houses an ultraviolet bulb, killing living microscopic particles in the water. 

A good biological filtration system, teamed with a proper mechanical filter to remove solids before the water enters the biological filtration unit, is the most effective way to filter water.  With adequate biological and mechanical filtration, the need for sterilizers is eliminated altogether, thereby ensuring a natural ecosystem pond.

The Job of a Skimmer

The main function of mechanical filtration, or skimmer, is to remove debris before it sinks to the bottom of the pond and decays. The skimmer also houses and hides the pump and plumbing from view, as opposed to being placed directly in the pond where they become an eyesore.  The skimmer won’t drain the pond if a possible leak occurs in either the plumbing or waterfalls.

There are two main types of skimmers: box skimmers and floating skimmers.  Both types filter the water by removing floating debris and waste before it’s had a chance to fall to the bottom of the pond.  The box skimmer is the predominant type of skimmer on the market today because it’s easy to maintain. 

Box-style skimmers come with either vertical or horizontal filter mats.  Horizontal mats prove to be the most effective, while providing the least amount of maintenance. In addition to frequent cleaning, vertical mats need to be constantly monitored to make sure there is enough water in the pump chamber for the pump to operate properly.  An advantage of horizontal filter mats is that they lay flat so there is no sagging and they don’t lose their shape.  They also never clog to the point of preventing water from passing through, so the pump chamber does not run dry.

As water enters the skimmer, the large debris is removed and the water is then further filtered through the horizontal mat.  The pond water then travels through the plumbing buried underground, up to the biological filter where it’s further treated before re-entering the pond. 

Biological Filtration Goes to Work

The biological filter receives water that has already passed through the mechanical filter, or skimmer, typically placed on the opposite side of the pond.  The water enters the biological filter via flexible pipe located near the base of the unit.  The water then flows from the bottom to the top of the filter, traveling through filter media housed inside the unit.  The filter media helps with the removal of fine to medium-sized particles.  The larger debris was already removed by the skimmer. 

As the biological filter fills, it will overflow and cascade over its waterfall lip, cascading down rocks that have been set to create a beautiful and preferably natural-looking waterfall.  The waterfall creates aeration for the pond, assisting in the circulation and health of the water.  If a slower, stream effect is preferred, the unit simply needs to be sunk lower into the ground.

Biological filters on the market today range in size and can filter ponds up to 10,000 gallons.  For larger ponds, multiple biological filters can be incorporated into the design. 

The Science Behind the Design

Mechanical and biological filtration are critical to processing the many types of nutrients found in a water garden system, including fish waste, uneaten fish food, leaves, and runoff from lawns to name a few.  High levels of ammonia (a form of nitrogen) are highly toxic to fish and are a major contributor to prolific algae growth, and so they need to be carefully controlled.  In water gardening, the primary nutrient that biological filtration utilizes and renders usable is nitrogen.

In biological filtration, nitrifying bacteria, known as facultative bacteria, absorb ammonia, and turn nitrites into nitrates, which are less dangerous.  These bacteria require oxygen to live, so it’s important for the pond’s pump to run 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.  If the pump isn’t running, the waterfalls aren’t flowing, and aeration is eliminated from the necessary equation to maintain an ecosystem pond.  Keep in mind that if the pump shuts down, the bacteria will quickly use up all of the oxygen and die.  This isn’t a good thing.

Nitrates are then removed from the pond by another biological filtration method known as de-nitrification.  This process occurs only in anaerobic (without oxygen) areas of the pond.  That’s why it’s not necessarily bad for some areas of the pond to experience minimal water flow (such as on the bottom of the pond, under an inch or so of gravel).  The bacteria that live in this area of the pond turn nitrates into nitrogen gas, which is released into the atmosphere.  Nitrates are also absorbed by aquatic plants and algae during their growth processes.  A pond without aquatic plants will prove to be a maintenance nightmare.

For any biological filtration to work, there literally needs to be billions of bacteria working to purify the water.  They prefer to anchor onto things, which is why surface area is so important.  More surface area means more bacteria, and more bacteria means better biological filtration.  Surface area is provided by filter media, rocks, and gravel.  A pond with gravel on the bottom will contain more surface area for bacteria, as opposed to a pond with exposed liner on the bottom.

Low-Maintenance Customers

This simple process of repeatedly turning the water over through the mechanical and biological filters helps keep water quality high and aids in creating a naturally balanced, low-maintenance ecosystem pond.  Add the remaining components of fish, plants, aeration, rock, and gravel, and you’ll find greater success in creating easy-to-maintain water gardens for your customers.  And when your customers spend less time fiddling in the backyard on pond chores, it means they can enjoy more leisure time relaxing by their backyard oasis with a cool beverage in hand.  So instead of spending your days on follow-up maintenance and trouble-shooting calls, you can instead focus on cultivating and growing new and existing customers.  Less stress for your customers translates into less stress and greater profits for you!

 

Disease Terminology and Treatment Drugs

 

  When it comes to curing a fish, there are only two methods available to us, either Chemotherapy or Environmental, both of which have their place, but never within our tanks.
  All treatments must be performed outside of the main tank within a Quarantine Tank. As long as there are hobbyist who insist on rushing home with their new purchases and putting them directly into the main tank, then there will always be disease and parasite problems.
  All large aquariums throughout the world all have strict quarantine procedures in place for a reason. It works!.
  Besides using a medication for a treatment, you should also provide pristine water conditions to reduce any stress on the fish as well as not giving the pathogen its suitable environment (organic laden).
  Keeping the tank’s temperature on the lower end (low to mid 70’s) will hinder the growth of most pathogens and may allow medications to be more effective. Also keeping the salinity lower (SG 1.018) helps with oxygenation as many antibiotics “work” better in lower salinities as well.
  Stress reduction is very important at this point as stress will increase the fish’s metabolic rate which increases the oxygen need, which further increases the metabolic rate, a very vicious circle.

  ALL TREATMENT PLANS MUST BE CARRIED THROUGH TO THE END OF THEIR SUGGESTED LENGTH OF TREATMENT, EVEN IF THE FISH IS LOOKING BETTER, CONTINUE TREATMENT. TO CUT THE TREATMENT SHORT ONLY INVITES THE CREATION OF MEDICINE RESISTANT PATHOGENS.

  A Note on Scaleless Fish – Any medication used in the treatment of parasites, such as formalin and copper must be used at half the recommended dosage, if you see the fish having problems during such treatments, a water change will be required to reduce the medication levels and another treatment plan should be considered.
  For Mandarins – Which are notably slimy fish that are not as susceptible to external parasite infestations as other fish may be. However, they are not immune, and are overly sensitive to copper compounds, other metal-based and formalin containing medications. They are best treated through environmental manipulation, such as hyposalinity.

  DIPS / BATHS – Overall article on how to and what to use per a given infection / infestation.

  HYPO SALINITY : The lowering of the water’s salinity down to 1.009 will reduce stress on fish and kill some types of parasites, most notably, Marine Ich. This treatment requires accurate salinity testing, which a refractometer will do. The usual hydrometers are not accurate enough to ensure proper salinity levels are achieved. I strongly urge using this treatment during all quarantine periods for new arrivals of fish.
  Test Kits – If you test your water for calcium or magnesium at hyposaline levels you will get a much lowered test result. Since test kits are affected by temperature and salinity levels the following formula will take hyposaline into consideration.  Temperature range 74-86f .
  For calcium tests –  Take your current readings of your SG and subtract it from a base of 1.025 if your temp is below 80 and 1.023 if your temp is above 80 and is a multiplier of 9.632 then add that number to your calcium test results that the kits gives you. Example –  1.023 -1.009 = .014×9.632 = 0.134848 round to135, Current reading is 230+135=365 
  For magnesium tests – Use a multiplier of 2.741 but subtract that number from your current test as it will read slightly higher than normal the fresher the water gets. 

  FORMALDEHYDE (Formalin – 3% formaldehyde) – A very effective treatment for parasites. Extreme care must be used when handling this chemical. Please take the time to make sure you fully understand its dangers and correct usage.
  DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 3% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10 days. Combines well with malachite green.

  Note: For those of you who live where Formalin is controlled or restricted, there is another product called ProForm C , which contains both malachyte green and formalin that should be available to you.

  COPPER BASED Medications – Another effective treatment for parasites, and as with all chemical treatments, care must be taken with its use, accurate dosing is very important and must be done outside of the main tank. A chelated copper is considered to be of a less hazard to the fish, but may not be as effective against the parasites. For unknown parasites, I would use this method since it will kill all external species of parasites, with the exception of Brooklynella, then formalin dips would be advised. I personally would recommend Cupramine be used.
  DOSAGE: Treat according to your solution to bring your copper level to .15 -.20 ppm. Sequestered Copper (often called chelated, but that is incorrect, chelated means inactivated) sulfate works best (citric acid help achieve this). Soluble copper salts work well in freshwater only. Do use with snails and other invertebrates, do not use in reef aquariums, and note; when uses as an algaecide, the copper is absorbed by the algae then released when it dies. Removal of sequestered copper can be difficult, only EDTA (Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acidic Acid) and water changes remove it, NOT carbon.

  FRESHWATER DIPS – While I do not feel that a freshwater dip is a cure, since not all parasites will be removed, and can be very stressful for the fish, but this procedure is helpful if the fish is heavily infested and needs some immediate relief, by reducing the number of attached parasites, it may help other treatment methods be more effective.

  ERYTHROMYCIN – Effective against most gram-positive and some gram negative bacteria and fungus.  It is also used to destroy cyanobacteria but does have its risks when used in a reef aquarium. 
  DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg per 20 gallons every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days. 

  METRONIDAZOLE – A very effective treatment for Internal Protozoal infections.
  DOSAGE: 250-500 mg per 20 gallons. Treat every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.

  PIPERAZINE – Sold as Pipezine and is useful for the treatment of internal nematodes (roundworms).

  MALACHITE GREEN – Seems to be a dangerous compound to use but has been shown to be effective against a variety of problems, most commonly as a treatment for Fungal infections.
  DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 0.038% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10-14 days. Or 1 drop of .50% solution per gallon every other day for 10- 14 days. 25% water changes are recommended before each dose. Use half dose for scale-less and delicate fish such as Clown Loaches and Neon Tetras. Double dose for marine aquariums. Note; malachite green is more toxic at higher ph.

  NEOMYCIN SULFATE – An effective treatment for bacterial infections. NEVER mix with copper sulfate!
  DOSAGE: 250 mg per 10 gallons of water. Treat every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days. For tuberculosis, use for up to 30 days.

  METHYLENE BLUE – Commonly used as a “cure all” for bacterial infections.
  DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a zinc free 2.303% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10 days with water changes before each treatment. BEST USED IN A QUARANTINE TANK. Methylene blue can destroy nitrifying bacteria and plants in the display aquarium. 

  MINOCYCLINE – Sold as Maracyn 2 , Very effective against bacterial infections, if used at double the recommended dosage. Side note: This medication is also administered to us humans since there is a bacterial infection that we can catch from our fish tanks! Human Infections

  NITROFURAZONE – Sold as Furacyn, Effective against bacterial infections.
  DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg per 20 gallons. Treat every 24 hours with a 50% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days. 

  KANAMYCN SULFATE – Sold as Kanacyn, Effective against bacterial infections.

  OCTOZIN – Useful for internal parasites.

  PRAZIQUANTEL – Sold as Prazipro and Droncit,Effective against Trematodes. While this is a very difficult problem to diagnose, it is important to note that with Trematodes, there are two distinct forms of concern for us, which involves their life cycles, there are digenetic trematodes which require two or more other life forms that they must pass through before ending up on our fish, since those other life forms are not present in our tanks, this problem will just die off on its own. The type of trematode that is of concern for us are the mono genetic types that have only one host needed (our fish). If this medication is administered via bath it will not be as effective on internal parasites as administering via food. Can be obtained on line: Nationalfishpharm.com or through a vet.

  ACRIFLAVINE – Effective against the parasite Amyloodinium.

  SULFASOXAZOLE – Effective against bacterial infections.

  TRIPLE SULFA (Sulfamerazine, Sulfamethazine, Sulfathiazole) – Treatment of gram-negative bacterial infections, fin and tail rot and mouth fungus.
  DOSAGE: 250 mg per 10 gallons every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for a minimum of 10 days.

  “Natural” Treatments:

  PIMAFIX – Effective against cotton like fungal infections as well as external and internal bacterial infections. There is debate on such medications amongst the hobby, some are against its use while other hobbyists have noted very good results with this product if used in conjunction with Melafix. A word of caution with its use, there has been observations that fish may experience oxygen deprivation / suffocation. As such, increased aeration should be used as well as monitoring the fish closely.

  GARLIC– In my corrected opinion, while garlic use is still somewhat of a controversial additive, it does perform as a mild anti-helminth (dewormer) and does have some anti-bacterial properties, but should be used with more conventional treatments.

  BETA GLUCAN – “Beta glucan works as a biological defense modifier. It activates the immune system by stimulating receptors on macrophages that cause them to react as if a fungus is attacking the body.” In other words, this is a great way to help the fish help itself, supplementing this product to the fish food will increase its own immune system and may just save you a few trips to the fish pharmacy.