Category: Saltwater & Reef

The Place to Acquire Saltwater Fish
A saltwater fish store is unique in the fact that it is the perfect place to acquire a new addition to an individual’s collection of aquarium dwellers. Saltwater fish are notorious for being difficult to raise and provide a natural environment suitable for long term survival. This statement could be nothing as far from the truth. That used to be a true statement twenty years ago. Science and technology have perfected the art of saltwater fish keeping. At a saltwater aquarium store this difficult concept soon is dispelled. Saltwater Aquarium keepers are a breed that has the skills and knowledge of what it takes to keep these beautiful, colorful animals alive and thriving. There are such a multiple of choices for the avid saltwater enthusiast to indulge their interests and collection of species.

Types of Aquariums and the species kept
Maybe a saltwater collection is presented in a office location as a center piece of conversation. The aquarium could be made to look like a living reef, with the addition of live coral, sea sponges, fish, and a little live rock the allusion of the bottom of the oceans reefs can be a reality in the office. Watching these types of aquarium set-ups is very relaxing and very educational as well. Professionals at the saltwater fish store will be able to educate and inform the aquarium keeper how to keep their fish, corals, live rock, and any other type of invertebrate alive and thriving. Usually these individuals at the saltwater fish store are extremely educated from years of learning the craft of fish keeping. Water, temperature, food, species of fish all plays important roles in keeping an aquarium in a state of homoeostasis.

Difficulty of Species
Very exotic species can be purchased from the saltwater aquarium store. Most species are captured in the wild and begin their life in the wild. Usually the aquarium store has importers that specialize in different locations and different breeds. A type of fish that is viewed in a catalogue or another aquarium can usually be acquired if the name of the species is known. A reputable saltwater aquarium store will have the species stay in a isolation tank called quarantine. Quarantine is very important so that if the new fish, coral, animal has any parasites, diseases or other dangerous infectious problems it will not spread the problem. Another reason for quarantine is to get the animal accustomed to captivity and eating. Often new fish captured will not eat and often the water PH and other factors like salt content must be gradually introduced to be tolerated by the animal.

The beauty and successful maintenance of a saltwater aquarium requires attention not only to the chemical and temperature balance of the water, but also to the temperamental aspect of the fish themselves. It is essential that you balance their personalities (thereby increasing compatibility) by grouping passive fish with other passive fish and aggressive fish with other aggressive fish. This is the only way to avoid difficulties with aggression among the tank’s inhabitants, outbreaks of disease due to stress-induced lowered immune systems, and the inability to provide proper nutrition (aggressive eaters vs. passive eaters!).

You also want to avoid species that have unusual or unique food requirements. The health and longevity of marine fish depend on both a proper aquatic environment and a balanced diet that supplies complete nutrition, including trace elements they would receive in nature. Fish, unlike some invertebrates, obtain their trace elements from the food, not the water.

Typical choices for a non-aggressive community would include most cardinalfish, hardy butterflyfish, gobies, blennies, tilefish, green chromis damselfish, and certain wrasses. At the other end of the behavioral spectrum are the aggressive eels, certain scorpionfish, groupers, some of the larger damselfish and dottybacks, porcupinefish and triggerfish. If you are a beginning marine aquarist be sure to look for these compatibility factors before you stock your tank.

If you have any doubts or questions about your setup, please talk to our staff. They are always happy to advise and answer any questions you have. After all, we want to ensure the success of your saltwater venture and assist you to become an expert yourself!

The Banded Trochus Snail is touted by aquarists of all experience levels for numerous reasons. Like other members of the Trochidae family, the Banded Trochus is easy to care for and very adept at working as your aquarium’s cleanup crew. The Banded Trochus Snail normally has a black foot that is an off white/tan color on the underside of the foot. It boasts a pale gray, top- or pyramid-shaped shell. Thanks to the maroon stripes or bands on its shell, the Banded Trochus Snail adds a unique flair to any marine system.

Also known as the Trochus, Turban or Top Shell, or Turban Snail, this species of the Trochus genus is the true Banded Trochus Snail from Indonesia. Perhaps what many aquarists appreciate the most is the ease with which Banded Trochus Snails seem to breed in the home aquarium. It reproduces sexually by releasing gametes into the water column. The gametes appear as a cloudy, white substance. Breeding activity is usually sparked by changes in lighting or water conditions. After the gametes join, they develop into free-swimming larvae that eventually settle into your aquarium substrate and develop into mature snails over a period of a few months.

The Banded Trochus Snail is well suited for reef aquariums. As a general rule, you can keep one snail for every two to three gallons of aquarium water. The Banded Trochus Snail is very peaceful and because of its shell shape, it is not easily eaten by crabs. Unlike its close relative, the Tectus Snail, the Banded Trochus Snail can right itself when knocked over.

The Banded Trochus Snail does best in a well-established aquarium with ample hiding places and room to forage. It naturally feeds on algae, cyanobacteria, and diatoms amongst your live rock, substrate, and aquarium glass. The Banded Trochus is also an effective film algae eater. However, they only passively graze on other nuisance algae, such as hair algae.

Like other invertebrates, Trochus sp. is sensitive to high nitrate levels and intolerant of copper-based medications. It requires a gradual acclimation process, preferably the drip acclimation method. If food levels are insufficient in your aquarium, supplement their diet with dried seaweed. Though most Banded Trochus Snails seem to breed easily, there are no distinguishing characteristics between males and females.

 

Easily the most recognizable and popular saltwater fish in the hobby is the clownfish (or anemonefish). They are prized not only for their beauty and hardiness but also for their interesting symbiotic lifestyle with host anemones.

The news about these fish just gets better as they are among a growing number of marine fish being captively bred. Already, several hatcheries and “fish farms” produce an abundance of specimens in a variety unheard of just a few years ago, and among them, most species of clownfish. The biggest plus to captive-bred clownfish is that the fish are born and raised in hatcheries and are already adjusted to captive life, which makes them hardier and stronger. Wild clownfish, except for the mated pairs often exported from the Indo-Pacific region, arrive in very poor condition and are usually suffering from Brooklynella infestation. While these fishes can be treated and often recover, many do not. It seems wasteful to continue removing them from the ocean when captive bred specimens of all popular clownfish species are now widely available.

At Fintastic, we strongly advocate buying captive bred species whenever possible. Although there are many honorable collectors of wild-caught fish, there are also many unscrupulous ones who not only deliver unhealthy stock but damage the reefs and environment as well. If you’re interested in clownfish, our captive bred species include true percula (A. percula), clarkii (A. clarkii), false percula (A. ocellaris), and tomato clown (A. frenatus).

A word about anemones: though the clownfishes are generally a hardy lot, the anemones with which they associate are not. Unless you are an expert, most aquarists should choose between Entacmaea quadricolor, Bulb anemone, macrodactyla doreensis, and long tentacle anemone.

Reef tank parasites such as cryptocarion (Ich) and Amyloodinum (Velvet disease) are ubiquitous and almost impossible to completely eradicate when you are first establishing your tank. Traditional treatments would be fatal to most of the invertebrates you may be trying to raise.

Although there are several methods for controlling these parasites, and fierce differences of opinion as to which method is the best, the most effective way to protect your fish is to introduce it to your tank in the most stress-free way possible.

Carol Bowerin, in her 1983 book, stated that the effects of Ich and Velvet disease are rarely found in the wild. This leads us to believe that a healthy, nonstressed fish is better able to fend off diseases. Avoid water change shock as much as possible. Taking care that the salinity and pH of your tank, and that of the

store you make your purchase in, are the same is very helpful. It’s wise to develop a relationship with your stock source. Our knowledgeable and reliable staff can make all the difference to you insuring your purchase will live long and prosper.

 

 

1. Adaptability

Salt water fish generally need more tank consistency, maintenance, and monitoring than their fresh water counterparts. This makes sense considering the ocean provides a more stable environment for its inhabitants than does a freshwater body of water which often changes in size, depth, and temperature. For your first fish community, consider those salt water fish that are more resilient and can adapt to small changes and fluctuations in temperature, salt levels, or oxygen content. Our knowledgeable staff can help you with ways to keep any fluctuations at a minimum.

 

2. Cost

Though some of these fish are brilliantly colored, uniquely shaped, and capture attention and eye-appeal, they are a significant investment.

Imagine the extra heartache you might feel if you found your two hundred dollar fish floating on top of the water as opposed to your five dollar fish. Obviously, you do not want to lose any fish while starting your aquarium, but inevitably, it happens. At Fintastic, there are many wonderful fish selections to be had at around twenty dollars if cost is an issue for you.

 

3. Compatibility

Saltwater fish can be rather aggressive and it is important to consider fish that will be able to get along with other fish in the tank. Some are definitely more compatible than others. At Fintastic, you can get great input from friendly sales associates to help you make an informed decision on the types of fish that get along with one another.

 

4. Feeding requirements

There are saltwater fish that can be extremely high maintenance when it comes time to feed them. Some need live food, or food that has to be presented in a certain manner, while some fish will pretty much eat whatever food you put in there for him. You will appreciate an easy going eater more than you might think. Our Fintastic staff is more than willing to get you the right foods for any fish you pick out and even demonstrate the particular fish’s feeding behavior.

 

5. Fish size

Salt water fish are more affected by tank size; the rule of thumb is approximately one inch of fish for every four to five gallons of water.

Though this estimate is conservative, it is important that you purchase fish knowing the size that they will reach when they are full grown. Some fish will grow from one inch to three or four inches, whereas other one inch fish may grow to eight or nine inches in size. We can assist you in finding a tank large enough to be able to accommodate your favorite fish when it reaches its adult size or help pick fish that will stay a comfortable size for the tank you have.

 

Fintastic can help you on your road to success by utilizing a strategy that keeps these five important points in mind. So stop by Fintastic and set up that dream tank you’ve always wanted and feel safe relying on our great staff to help you get there.

 

This Hawkfish, or going by its scientific name of cirrhitops fasciatus, has a bright red body with bluish-white freckles on the face and light vertical stripes along the body.  Although most Hawkfish grow large, a few Hawkfish species, such as the Hawaiian Banded Hawkfish, remain fairly petite, which makes them suitable for smaller aquariums.   The largest size these beautiful fish usually become is about 5 inches.

Hawkfish will eat almost any food put in an aquarium, including flake food. It should be fed meaty foods, including marine fish, mysis shrimp, crustacean flesh and foods with color enhancers to help maintain this fish’s brilliant red color.

The Hawkfish’s native environment are:

• Madagascar

• Reunion Island

• Mauritius

• Japan

• Hawaii

These wonderful fish make a very elegant addition to your aquarium; however, make sure you put them in a tank with fish that are larger than they are.  It is a threat to small fishes and crustaceans and is best housed with larger or more aggressive species.

by Stan Owens, Division Vice President; Greg Valatka, Director of Operations; Melissa Wright, Quality Engineer, Chemical Products, all from United Pet Group

Since the development of Instant Ocean sea salt in 1964, it has grown to become the standard synthetic sea salt formula, used by more aquariums both large and small around the world. Its beginnings stem from a desire to provide a viable alternative to natural seawater — one that not only kept organisms alive, but also enabled them to reproduce and thrive.

Whereas it might seem the most logical solution for keeping healthy fish, natural seawater that is clean of pollutants and sand is hardly accessible to the masses. Today, the most successful and well-known synthetic salt is Instant Ocean. After more than 40 years of research and usage in home and public aquariums, as well as research institutions, it has proven to be the scientifically-based synthetic sea salt in which fish and invertebrates can grow and prosper.

The Science Behind Instant Ocean
Instant Ocean is a homogeneous mixture that is fast-dissolving and produces a close match to natural seawater, but with increased buffering ability and a low total organic carbon concentration.

Remarkably, the salinity and chemical composition of major ions in natural seawater is essentially similar throughout the world’s oceans. Generally, one formula for synthetic sea salts works for varied aquarium dwellers, as they are equipped to live within tanks that adhere to very small ranges in chemical values.

Synthetic sea salts are made up of compounds like sodium chloride or magnesium chloride. When added to water, they dissolve into cations (positive charged ions) and anions (negative charged ions) at concentrations meant to mimic natural seawater. There are also a number of trace elements, and it is at the discretion of manufacturers to determine the best mixture for simulating a natural environment and providing customers with what they need for their aquarium.

Ultimately, Instant Ocean aims to stand out in three characteristics of a quality synthetic sea salt:

Choice of chemical compounds — Continuous monitoring of ammonia-free raw materials for quality and consistency. This ensures that seawater made with Instant Ocean today will be the same with every water change.

Dissolvability — Quick-dissolving formulation that doesn’t rely on lower quality chemicals or wide deviations from the composition of natural seawater. This enables customers to have a fast-acting solution that performs as it should.

Homogeneity of mix — An assurance that every bag of Instant Ocean is consistent. This results in Instant Ocean’s continued dedication to the following: If it doesn’t meet our standards, it doesn’t make it to customers.

How Do They Do It
The actual manufacturing process is just as important as the science behind creating Instant Ocean. In order to achieve its homogeneous, well-packaged and competitively-priced product, manufacturing must ensure that chemicals are clean, uniform in size, mixed in the right amount and packaged with efficiency.

Very recently, the company moved its manufacturing facilities to Blacksburg, Virginia, where its parent company, United Pet Group, has its principle chemical manufacturing center. The over 200,000 square foot facility features all new, stainless steel, pharmaceutical-grade equipment. Also, the company has a state-of-the-art, temperature-controlled laboratory dedicated solely to testing salt. This is where quality control is maintained through regular sampling and analysis. In making this manufacturing move, the company’s goal, given its long history, was to maintain and strengthen its trusted brand name in the market. Its mission remains to provide a consistent and reliable product to customers.

Over the years, and leading up to the move, modifications have been made in order to remain at the forefront of manufacturing innovation. Perhaps the most significant investment was in upgrading to computer-controlled processes. Every ingredient is now weighed on a digital scale and added by computer-controlled valves to ensure that each batch of Instant Ocean is exactly the same mix. The updates have also improved overall flexibility in manufacturing to efficiently meet customers’ orders, without compromising on quality.

This week’s “Tip of the Week” comes from a question I received from a customer with a Zoanthid-eating Nudibranch problem.

Zoanthid-eating Nudibranchs are what are known as aeolid Nudibranchs, a type of Nudibranch named for the Greek god of the wind, Aeolis. All aeolids eat cnidarians and are frequently named by aquarists based on their preferred prey (e.g. Zoanthid-eating Nudibranchs). Because they feed on ornamental cnidarians, we are generally intent on keeping them out of our aquaria, and that’s what I want to discuss here.

At Blue Zoo, we dip all incoming zoanthids (we dip all corals actually) in a malachite green solution with the primary goal of eliminating as many unwanted pests as possible. The dip works well with all of the soft bodied animals like aeolid Nudibranchs and bristle worms. It will kill some pest starfish as well as some pest snails but it really does a number on their eggs which is really the point of the dip. So the first tip I can offer to you is to ask the retailer if they prophylactically dip their zoanthids. If they don’t, you may want to consider dipping yourself as part of the acclimatization procedure.

I like to recommend a ten minute dip in RO/DI freshwater with Lugol’s Solution. Lugol’s Solution provides a strong source of free iodine and iodide and is frequently used as a dip for stony and soft or leather corals. Keep in mind that Lugol’s Solution is a very concentrated source of iodine—use 40 drops per gallon of water in a separate bucket for your dip. After the dip, quarantine the Zoanthid colony for at least one week. Because the dip will not kill the eggs, it is best to dip the colony every four days or so during quarantine.

Luckily, many individual aeolids are often ineffective at establishing breeding populations that can lead to infestation, so if you do observe a Zoanthid-eating Nudibranch on your Zoanthid colony, simply removing it with a pair of tweezers can be effective. Unfortunately, many Zoanthid-eating Nudibranchs are quite small and can easily proliferate in the aquarium environment making eradication quite difficult.

In these situations, I often recommend a biological approach. In other words, I suggest that aquarists introduce animals that, while consistent with their overall stocking plan, will target and (hopefully) eradicate pests. Using Peppermint Shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni) to eradicate Aiptasia is a good example of a biological approach to pest control. When it comes to Zoanthid-eating Nudibranchs, There are several fishes that will target them. They include wrasses from the genus Halichoeres (e.g. the Yellow Coris Wrasse, H. chrysus) and Butterfly fishes from the genus Chaetodon (e.g. the Klein’s Butterfly fish, Chaetodon kleinii), but unfortunately, neither can be fully endorsed as reef compatible.

An effective treatment can be to use a product such as Salifert Flatworm Exit. This product is quite safe to both fishes and invertebrates and can be used in a reef tank. To use Flatworm Exit, turn off your UV sterilizer and ozone, and remove activated carbon from the system (keep your protein skimmer turned on). Add one drop of Flatworm Exit for every gallon of system water it in a high flow area of the tank (a cap full is good for 90 gallons). Flatworm Exit will NOT kill Zoanthid-eating Nudibranch eggs, so you should repeat the treatment again in one week to kill all of the newly hatched adults.

 

See also this URL – http://www.coralrx.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=11&Itemid=23

The Blue Angelfish is a very beautiful fish found in the Gulf of Mexico, Florida, Bermuda and the Bahamas. The juvenile Blue Angelfish is quite different from that of the adult. Juveniles are dark blue with a yellow tail, a yellow area around the pectoral fins, and brilliant blue vertical bars on the body.

Feeding
This small blue angelfish survives mainly on sponges. They enjoy all kinds of live, frozen, and prepared formula foods. Best to feed small amounts several times a day. A good formula that can be made at home consists of mussels, shrimp, squid, and spinach.

Interesting Facts
Adult blue angelfish are generally found in pairs year round, so it is very likely that the male and the female mate for life. Pairs will spawn by slowly rising up in the water column while bringing their bellies close together, and releasing large amounts of eggs and sperm.

A female can release anywhere from 25 to 75 thousand eggs each evening. The eggs are transparent, pelagic, and each contains a single drop of oil to provide buoyancy. The eggs will hatch in 15 to 20 hours. Growth is rapid and 3 to 4 weeks after hatching the fish will reach about 15-20mm and will settle on the bottom.

Recommended Tank Size
The Blue Angelfish requires a large aquarium of about 250 gallons. The tank needs to be equipped with plenty of hiding places so it is okay to decorate it with live rock. Just remember that the Blue Angelfish needs to be able to hide and swim, as it enjoys both activities. The temperature within the tank should be about 72 – 78 degrees Fahrenheit with a pH level of 8.1 – 8.4.