Category: Coral|Saltwater & Reef

Corallimorphia (Ricordia and mushrooms)

Class Anthozoa, Suborder Hexacorallia, Order Corallimorpharia, Family Ricordeidae and Genus Discosoma

Common names: Ricordia, mushrooms, button polyps, hairy mushrooms

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific, Caribbean

Sensitivity (Level 1 to 2): Sensitivity varies some from species to species, but usually tolerant and quite forgiving. When healthy, these corals can rapidly recover from damage and stress.

Feeding: Prey capture ability depends on species and size of the coral polyp mouth. If the tank is regularly fed a healthy variety of food, these corals should have no problem getting what they need.

Lighting (Level 2 to 8): Most can adapt to a wide range of light intensities but sudden changes in lighting can cause bleaching.

Water flow: These corals can thrive in lower flow areas of the tank.

Placement: Though they’re not generally aggressive, they can be quite unyielding. A few species can grow quite large (reaching over a foot in diameter) while some species stay relatively small (less than 2 inches across). The larger species include many of the corals commonly referred to as “hairy mushrooms.” All species divide as a method of asexual reproduction.

General: Note that these corals will sometimes detach from their rocks and float away. This could be a sign that they are unhealthy or over crowded. However, it could also mean that they are not happy with where they are in the tank and are simply trying to find a more favorable spot. You can try to glue the coral down, but this can be quite difficult if there are grains of sand attached to the foot. It’s usually wiser or kinder to just let the coral find the spot it wants. Just make sure that as it ventures around it doesn’t get stuck in an obviously bad place (such as in the grate of an overflow or powerhead, or at the base of an incompatible coral). These corals can be fragmented by cutting into sections.

 

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists.

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Sun Coral (azooxanthellate)

Class Anthozoa, Subclass Hexacorallia, Order Scleractinia, Family Dendrophylliidae, Genus Tubastraea

Common names: yellow or orange sun coral, orange or yellow sun polyp, black sun coral

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 4): Azooxanthellate sun coral have demanding feeding requirements that can make them difficult to care for. They are prone to tissue recession which may be a sign of starvation.

Feeding: These corals need frequent and careful target feeding. Some aquarists use an inverted bowl (or other container) placed over the coral during target feeding to help the coral capture enough food. Cyclopeeze (micro crustaceans) and baby brine shrimp are some good food choices. Variety is also helpful.

Lighting (Level 0 to 3): The azooxanthellate sun corals don’t need light. Low intensity and/or indirect light is best. Too much light may encourage nuisance algae to grow over the surface of coral.

Water flow: Moderate to strong water flow is important.

Placement: These are not aggressive corals. They are usually placed at the bottom of an aquarium and away from aggressive, stinging corals.

General: These corals have unfortunately high mortality rates in captivity. That said, frequent and successful feeding can greatly improve chances of survival.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists.

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Euphyllia (Hammer, Torch and Fox Corals)

Class Anthozoa, Order Scleractinia, Family Euphyllidae, Genera Euphyllia and Nemenzophyllia

Common names: hammer coral, branched hammer coral, torch coral, pom-pom coral, whisper coral, fox coral

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 2): Though generally tolerant, they need to be fed and placed properly (see below).

Feeding: These corals have good prey capture ability and can feed on mysis shrimp and other meaty marine foods.

Lighting (Level 5 to 7): Preferred lighting depends on species, but most prefer moderate (or intense but indirect) lighting.

Water flow: Place in an area of moderate water flow.

Placement: These corals can be quite aggressive, displaying long, powerful stinging sweeper tentacles. Please place them safety away from other corals. Do not keep with leather corals that may be toxic to larger polyped stony corals. Also avoid housing with hermit crabs.

General: If not otherwise explained, slow tissue recession may be a sign of starvation. Target feeding may help this situation. These corals seem to be more susceptible to brown jelly disease than most other corals. To help prevent disease, be careful not to damage the coral while handling and avoid housing with hermit crabs that can irritate the coral’s soft tissue.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists.

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Trachyphylliidae

Class Anthozoa, Order Scleractinia, Family Trachyphylliidae

Common names: lobed brain coral, open brain coral

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 2): These corals are generally tolerant, but need to be fed well.

Feeding: Trachyphyllidae have impressive prey capture ability. They will ready eat a variety of meaty aquarium foods. Be forewarned, they can even eat small aquarium fish!

Lighting (Level 4 to 7): These corals seem to prefer moderate lighting. They can adapt to more intense lighting if allowed to do so slowly over time. As with most all corals, sudden changes in lighting can cause bleaching.

Water flow: Moderate to stronger water flow is ideal.

Placement: These are very aggressive corals best placed in a sand or rubble bottom. Give them plenty of room. Sometimes tangs and hermit crabs will nip at and/or irritate the coral’s soft tissue. Keeping the tank well fed can help prevent competition for food.

General: Slow tissue recession can be a sign of starvation. Though these corals have impressive feeder tentacles, in captivity, it may take them some time to get “settled in.” If after several weeks you still do not observe an extension of feeder tentacles, you can try to encourage a feeding response with night-time target feeding. One hour after the lights go out, turn off circulation during feeding so that the food can fall onto the coral. Give the coral an hour or two to “grab hold” of the food, then turn the water flow back on. Do this daily (or every other day) until feeder tentacles extend regularly in anticipation of feeding.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer” These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Favia and Favites (and other moon corals)

Class Anthozoa, Order Scleractinia, Family Faviidae, Genera Favia and Favites

Common names: moon coral, brain coral

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 1 to 2): Sensitivity depends a bit on the species, but most are quite tolerant, forgiving and easy to care for.

Feeding: Most species have considerable prey capture ability. All have feeder tentacles. However, like many corals, they can take some time to “settle in” to a new home. They should be fed at night since this is when they will usually extend their feeder tentacles. If after several weeks your coral is still not extending feeder tentacles, you can try to encourage a feeding response with night-time target feeding. When doing this, wait one hour after lights go off before feeding. Turn water flow off so that the food can fall and rest onto the coral. Give the coral an hour or two to “grab hold” of the food, then turn water flow back on. Do this regularly until feeder tentacles extend regularly in anticipation of feeding. Once your coral is readily extending feeding tentacles, it will be able to catch food from the current without any assistance.

Lighting (Level 4 to 7): These corals can adapt to a range of light intensities. Like any coral, they can bleach if not properly acclimated to a sudden change in lighting.

Water flow: Moderate to strong water flow is best. Stronger water flow may help encourage feeding tentacle extension.

Placement: These corals seem to do best when placed on a hard surface or up on rocks (sand can cause some irritation). Aggression varies considerably between species. Some have sweeper tentacles (stinging tentacles that can extend several inches), but some don’t. Don’t assume that your coral does not have sweeper tentacles just because you haven’t seen them. They may only extend them at night or when you haven’t been watching.

General: This is a huge group of corals including the Favid and Favites genera. They are often confused with Blastomussa, Micromussa, Acanthastrea and other similar appearing corals. If not otherwise explained, slow tissue recession may be a sign of starvation. Careful target feeding as described previously may help this situation.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists.

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Turbinaria

Class Anthozoa, Order Scleractinia, Family Dendrophylliidae, Genus Turbinaria

Common names: pagoda cup coral, turban coral, vase coral

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 1 to 2): These corals are generally tolerant, forgiving and without much need for specialized care. Always avoid purchasing dyed corals.

Feeding: Turbinaria spp. have medium-sized polyps and good prey capture ability. They feed on a variety of foods including Cyclopeeze (micro crustaceans), mysis and brine shrimp and other meaty aquarium foods. When healthy, the polyps of many species extend and expand quite a bit. When fully expanded, the coral looks “bushy” with tentacles.

Lighting (Level 4 to 8): Turbinaria can adapt to a wide range of lighting conditions. As always, to prevent bleaching, be sure to acclimate to new lighting.

Water flow: These corals can be particularly vulnerable to sediment damage (especially when in the cup-shaped juvenile formation). Position the coral to minimize collection of debris and place in areas of moderate to high water flow.

Placement: If cup-shaped, place the coral such that the cup is on its side (rather than sitting “up-right”). Orienting the coral this way will help keep debris from getting trapped in the “mouth” of the cup. Lighting also determines the cupping of these corals. The higher the light levels the more closed the cup, the lower the light levels the flatter. Leave plenty of room for full polyp extension. They are not aggressive corals.

General: These corals feed during the day. Tentacles usually close up at night. It may take several days or weeks for the coral polyps to open up after being introduced into a new home or environment, or after being stressed.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Fungiidae

Common names: disc coral, plate coral, tongue coral, fungia, mushroom coral

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 1 to 3): Sensitivity depends on genus and species. Species from the genus Fungia are generally tolerant and tend to have excellent success rates among aquarists. Heliofungia species (often distinguished by their long tentacles) have a reputation for being much harder to care for and experience relatively poor success rates in aquaria.

Feeding: These corals have strong prey capture ability and can feed on chunky, meaty marine foods. The size of the food should fit the size of the coral’s polyp mouth or mouths.

Lighting (Level 5 to 8): These corals can adapt to a range of lighting conditions, but most need at least moderate lighting for good health and growth. As always, proper acclimation to new lighting conditions is important. Water flow: They do well in areas of moderate water flow.

Placement: These corals should be placed on a flat surface (sand beds are usually best, but gravel and bare bottoms will do). They can be a bit aggressive, so please give a little room.

General: These corals can be quite dynamic. They can move independently across flat surfaces (even up to several inches overnight) and can sometimes even flip themselves over after falling upside down. Tentacles usually come out at night, but in captivity they can come out during the day too (or instead). In healthy tanks, they can show remarkable recovery from injury or disease. They’re also known for occasionally producing babies called “anthocauli” upon their death.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists.

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Zoanthids

Class Anthozoa, Subclass Zoantharia, Order Zoanthidea

Common names: zoos, zoanthids, button polyps (sometimes inconsistently given names like “fire and ice” and “people eaters” based on phenotypic characteristics such as coloration and size that may have little or nothing to do with actual species identification)

Natural origin: wide-ranging, Indo-pacific

Sensitivity (Level 1): Zoanthids are usually quite tolerant and easy to care for.

Feeding: Appropriate food particle size depends on the size of the particular coral’s polyp mouth size. Though usually not necessary, some aquarists target feed to encourage faster growth.

Lighting (Level 4 to 10): Though more intense lighting is usually preferred, many zoanthids can adapt to much lower light intensities. As with any zooxanthellate coral, coloration can change in response to changing lighting conditions.

Water flow: These corals do well with moderate to high water flow.

Placement: Though not aggressive corals, they are fast growing when healthy and need considerable space (like Xenia and star polyps, they can become a nuisance in tanks with slower growing stony corals competing for space).

General: Polyps will close at night and when stressed. They may take a few days (or even weeks) to open up in a new environment. WARNING: Zoanthids secrete a slime that is highly toxic to humans. It’s wise to use gloves when touching these corals. Do not touch polyps if you have an open wound. Do not touch eyes or mouth after touching polyps.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1:

Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Galaxea

Class Anthozoa, Order Scleractinia, Family Oculinidae, Genus Galaxea

Common names: galaxea

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 2 to 3): Though not beginner corals, they’re generally tolerant in healthy, established aquariums.

Feeding: These corals should be fed a variety of smaller particle food.

Lighting (Level 3 to 5): They can adapt to a range of lighting conditions and seem to do well under less intense light. As always, care should be taken to acclimate the coral to any change in lighting conditions.

Water flow: They do best with surging water flow. If surging flow is not available, place in an area of the tank with stronger, more turbulent flow.

Placement: These corals can get quite aggressive with their exceptionally long stinging sweeper tentacles. Even small colonies need a lot of room.

General: Galaxea have thin, fragile polyp skeletons (corallites). Please handle with care. If not being kept in a tank with strong, surging water flow, be sure to keep clear of sediment with daily “blasting” with a turkey baster or power head. When healthy and kept well, these corals can grow quite fast and are easy to fragment and propagate.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Xenia

Class Anthozoa, Order Alcyonacea, Family Xeniidae, Genus Xenia

Common names: pulse coral, Xenia

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 1): Though generally very easy to care for, these corals can be somewhat unpredictable. Some colonies show impressive tolerance and forgiveness of varying conditions while others do not. They are also notorious for sudden and unexplainable death and do not ship well.

Feeding: Specific feeding habits are largely unknown. They are thought to absorb nutrients through their soft tissue (possibly aided by the pulsing of the coral).

Lighting (Level 6 to 10): Xenia can adapt to a wide range of lighting conditions, but seem to prefer more intense lighting. As always, be sure to properly acclimate to knew lighting.

Water flow: Moderate to high water flow is important. Higher water flow may increase pulsing activity.

Placement: Though not aggressive corals, like star polyps, they are relentlessly fast growing when healthy. They can become a nuisance in tanks with slower growing stony corals. When injured or dying, they can release toxins. Carbon filtration and prompt removal of injured/dying species can help control any ill-effects of this toxic release.

General: Pulsing activity is something of a mystery (its function and mechanism are currently unknown). Xenia in aquariums sometimes stop pulsing (often without observable cause) but continue to live and grow regardless. Some aquarists have noticed a cessation of pulsing with low pH and/or alkalinity. Polyps will close at night and when stressed. They may take a few days or even weeks to open up in a new environment.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1:Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.