Category: Fresh Water and Pond

There’s no doubt a well-maintained aquarium, delightfully aquascaped with live plants, is a beautiful sight. However the choice sometimes comes down to whether to keep the fish or the plants when these tankmates are not compatible. Many fish will either nibble your plants into raggedy eyesores or downright eat them up! Others are natural diggers, uprooting dislodging and rearranging your flora all the time. The outcome of this constant planting and replanting can be stressed plants and aquarium owners!

What’s the solution? Change your fish? Do without plants at all? How about artificial aquascaping?

Purists cringe at the thought of using artificial plants in aquariums even though there are many realistic looking choices available today But think about it? What’s the main reason for growing plants besides the aesthetics of it? That’s right, shelter for your fish and places for egg-laying. Plastic plants do these jobs just as well as live ones. The fish don’t care, except for those who have become excessive nibblers and they’ll soon get over it. Algae grows just as well on artificial surfaces, so your algae-eaters will be content. Hiding places among the artificial flora can still be comforting and also serve as a nesting area for your egglayers.

If your community is comfortable with live plants and you enjoy growing them, by all means continue to do so! But if you want both and are willing to go “plastic”, the rewards can be just as satisfying to you and your fish!

Fish are wonderful critters that add color, movement, and plenty of enjoyment to the water garden. The subject of pond fish occurs frequently during conversations about water features. In fact, the same questions seem to rise to the surface on a regular basis, which is why we call them FAQs … or frequently asked questions. Here are just a few:

Q. Don’t fish increase the workload for a water gardener?

A. In simplest terms, the answer is no!  In fact it’s just the opposite.  Fish constitute 20% of the naturally balanced, holistic, organic ecosystem that makes up your water garden.  Fish actually play a critical role in reducing your workload.  Fish do the following…

• Help control insects by eating them and their larvae
• Keep the plant growth in balance by eating them
• Help fertilize the plants with their waste
• Make great pets that you will learn to name and to love
• Add lots of color and movement to your pond

Q. What happens if I forget to feed the fish?  Won’t they die or become unhealthy?

A. Your fish will do just fine if you forget to feed them once in awhile since they consume the bacteria that coats the rocks and gravel at the bottom of the pond. However, feeding the fish provides a great opportunity for you and your family to interact with them. Actually the one mistake you can make is to overfeed them or feed them too often.  When temperatures fall below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, you definitely should avoid feeding them at all.

What about the fish in the winter?  Won’t they freeze to death in the pond?  Will I need to bring them in the house?

A. No. If you simply make sure that your pond is at least two feet deep, the proximity of the earth to the pond’s surface will not allow the latter to freeze any deeper than 8”.  That leaves 16” for the fish to lounge around and basically hibernate over the winter.  You do need to keep a hole in the ice using a floating heater or aerator for ponds to allow for the exchange of gasses (CO2 for oxygen).   But other than that your fish will do just fine in the pond, all year round.  Supplemental oxygen can also be supplied by running your waterfalls, adding a bubbler, or using the pump to churn the water near the surface.

How do I know how many fish are “too many fish” in my pond?  How about too few?  And just right?

A. Good question.  Too many fish means too little food, problems with your fish, and potential for an overgrowth of algae.  Too few fish means that the pond’s nutrition will not be satisfactorily absorbed and recycled.  The general rule of thumb that we always suggest is 1 inch of fish per square foot of pond surface area.  In other words, a 10’ x 10’ pond, which is 100 square feet, could support 100 inches of fish.  This 100 inches could consist of 10 ten-inch fish, 20 five-inch fish, or… well you get the picture.

Won’t raccoons or other predators eat my fish?

A.  Actually, raccoons don’t swim, so if ideally ponds built at least 2 feet deep and 8 feet wide, with some places for your fish to run and hide– they should be safe from those little nocturnal critters.  The only critter that is a valid concern is the heron.  Again, providing a place for your fish to hide (in and under water lilies, and other plants, or man-made fish caves) will help prevent any disastrous occurrence of fish-napping by a heron.

As beautiful and appealing as your water garden appears in daylight, imagine what it would look like at night when lighted! Fountains and cascades take on a whole new aspect if lit at night, becoming vibrant displays of moving, glittering water while the glow of submerged lights can create eerily attractive pools of incandescent color within the main pool.

By lighting up patios, poolsides, paths, decks, steps, bridges and barbecues, you can safely make full use of such areas at night. The safety aspect of lighting must be emphasized, as poor lighting can turn a charming daytime landscape into a potentially hazardous one at night. Lighting also improves security as well-lit gardens tend to deter possible intruders.

There are two methods of highlighting water in the garden, either from above the water surface or below. There are a number of units on the market for use as outdoor lighting, including some intended for underwater. Examine your garden and decide which features you want to highlight. Floodlights can be hidden in trees, among plants, or even fixed to buildings. If you direct these down onto the water surface, they will lift the pool out from the darkness.

Shine light at waterfalls to obtain glittering, moving reflections of the cascade. Try using a hidden spotlight to pick out the detail on a fountain ornament or sculpture and reflect it on the water surface. Shine uplighters into trees around the pool to create a green glow which will illuminate the surrounding area. The moving leaves will create a constantly changing pattern, and this will be stunningly reflected in the water.

Below the water, in-pool lighting can be used in a variety of ways. You could direct floodlighting across a body of water, causing a diffuse glow to emanate from the pool, or in ponds with clear water and pale colored bases, light can be directed at and reflected from the base.

We have many different lighting options for you to choose from and can also help you decide which garden features you want to emphasize and how to do it. Come in or give us a call.

Fall and winter are crucial times for the pondkeeper. As tropical plants begin to die and leaves from surrounding trees begin to fall, the pond accumulates nitrogenous waste material that adversely affects water quality and creates ideal conditions for preventable disease and parasite problems come springtime.

The following routine maintenance should be performed before the water temperature stabilizes at 50°-55°F:

• Cover the pond with a net while leaves are falling.

• Drain 2/3 of the pond water, removing all the sludge and debris from the bottom of the pond and scrubbing algae off the liner.

• Cut back approximately 80% of the growth of live plants, particularly those with leaves under the surface.

• Remove any tender plants that won’t survive freezing weather.

• Cut back flowers, eaves and shoots of water lilies. Transplant and separate as required (this is an ideal opportunity to begin using Soiless Potting Media). Submerse the lilies in the deepest part of the pond.

• As most of the natural cover for the fish has been removed, provide them with shelter from predators. Sections of inert drain pipe and/or PVC pipe work well.

• Refill the pond, being sure to use a dechlorinator.

• Thoroughly clean the filter and any pump pre-filters.

• If they are to be left running, raise pumps off the bottom of the pond so that the warmer, denser water that accumulates there is left undisturbed.

• Restore a 3% salt solution to the pond water by adding 1 lb. of pond salt for every 100 gallons of water every 24 hours for three treatments (a total of 3 lbs. per 100 gallons). This will prevent fall and winter deaths caused by Costia, a parasite capable of surviving very cold temperatures and the number one killer of fish during the fall and winter seasons.

• Fatten the fish, providing them with an adequate supply of stored nutrients to survive the winter months. Feed as many times a day as your schedule will permit, ensuring that all the food being offered is eaten with 5-10 minutes. Use a high-protein food.

• Discontinue feeding entirely when the water temperature is consistently below 50°F. Regardless how tempting it may be to feed on the occasional balmy day, DO NOT feed your fish! At a water temperature of 50°F or less, digestive activity has ceased and this food will rot in the fishes’ intestines causing illness and probable death.

A pond which is properly prepared for winter will avoid many of the problems associated with the arrival of spring!

If you grow your aquarium plants at optimal light levels and the proper temperature, provide the proper pH and water hardness as well as supply them with all the needed nutrients you will probably never see plant diseases or deficiencies. Incorrect care is often the main cause of stunted growth and plant damage. Here I will discuss the different problems we encounter with plants, their causes and remedies.

        Nutritional and trace element imbalances.

Errors made with supplying plants with the nutrients and trace elements can lead to plant damage and damage to the aquariums ecosystem. You should try to avoid these mistakes if at all possible.

Carbon Dioxide Deficiency. (CO²)

• Symptoms: The plants stay much smaller and grow more slowly than plants fertilized with CO2. Rough Calcium deposits on the leaves. Breakdown of the pH system causing a rise in pH.
• Causes: A lack of CO2 can arise even with optimal care. All plants use CO2 in their respiration process and it is difficult to maintain an equilibrium. Vigorously Aerated or agitated water increases CO2 loss, as the gas escapes into the air.
• Remedy: Regularly fertilize with CO2 and try to limit the amount of aeration and water agitation in your tank

Excess Carbon Dioxide CO².

• Symptoms: The fish gasp at the water surface for air, as if they are suffocating.
• Cause: Oxygen deficiency resulting from over fertilization with co2, dirty filter material, poor lighting, too large of a fish load and bad tank maintenance.
• Remedy: Check all your maintenance procedures and filters, look for dead animals and plants. If you use an automatic CO2 fertilization system, adjust the amount released and make sure it does not run at night when the lights are off.

 

Oxygen Deficiency.

• Symptoms: The fish go through many bouts of disease and have a loss of vigor. With a long term deficiency the plants become stunted and the tank has excess algae growth.
• Causes: Insufficient nutrients or light, as a result the plants are not able to produce Oxygen from the assimilation of Carbon Dioxide. The Nitrogen cycle of the tank slows due to the aerobic bacteria not working or slowly working. The results are water overloaded with waste products and an excess of CO2.
• Remedy: Check the filters, lighting, fish population, all other tank maintenance procedures and especially your feeding habits. Make any needed alterations or corrections.

Potassium Deficiency.

• Symptoms: Yellowing of the marginal sections of the young leaves. Trace element deficiency, usually Iron Chlorosis.
• Cause: Your local water supplier or your Reverse Osmosis/DI filter removes the Potassium from the water. So a deficiency may arise.
• Remedy: Regular fertilization.

Excess Phosphate.

• Symptoms: Production of the Iron Phosphate causes the leaves to turn Black or Brown and to die. In addition if there is an excess of Nitrates your tank will experience an Algae bloom.
• Cause: Not performing your water changes on schedule or not changing enough water.Remedy: change a large portion of your water right away. Then modify your tank maintenance routine to include larger water changes or more frequent ones.

 

 

Cryptocoryne Disease
Cryptocoryne Rot.

• Symptoms: In the early stages small holes develop in the leaves or along the leaf margins. Advanced stages will affect the entire plant or group and cause the breakdown of all the leaves.
• Cause: Not known for sure, but excess Nitrate is a factor. Unclean water, improper nutrients and insufficient light also contribute to the onset of this disease. The odd thing about this disease that by trying to correct the above stated causes, often triggers this disease. Not regular maintenance, but for example doing a water change after a long period or changing the lights well after they were used up can bring about the onset.
• Remedy: Immediate improvement to the aquarium set up. Large water change, cleaning of the substrate, removal of all dead and decaying plant material. Don’t baby the plants, just leave them alone and they should recover in a few weeks.
• Prevention: Get on a regular maintenance schedule, do the water changes, keep up with the fertilization and change your lights when the recommended time arrives.

Iron Deficiency
Iron Chlorosis

• Symptoms: Yellow leaves that become brittle and glassy and finally fall off or rot away.
• Cause: Potassium deficiency, too little fertilizer and over-fertilization with Phosphate. In well fertilized aquariums it can be caused by an overly high amount of total Carbonate hardness in conjunction with a pH over 7.
• Remedy: Regular use of an Iron rich fertilizer compound or a substrate which contains Iron additives. If needed lower the Carbonate hardness of the water.

 

 

Manganese deficiency.

• Symptoms: Leaves turn Yellow but the Veins stay Green.
• Cause: Unbalanced Iron fertilization.
• Remedy: Use a fertilizer that contains all compounds needed by plants not just an Iron rich fertilizer.

Incorrect care and its end result.

Plants can often suffer from deficiency problems caused by the wrong choice in the aquarium substrate lighting and other accessories.

Problems in the substrate.

• Symptoms: Gas bubbles rising to the surface any time the substrate is disturbed, stunted plant growth, poorly rooted plants and rotting roots that are Black in color.
• Causes: The bottom material is too fine and/or has compacted. The Nutrients in the substrate have been used up.
• Remedy: loosen the bottom material and add some heavier grade material as well as a substrate fertilizer like Laterite. If this does not improve the conditions a replacement of the entire bottom material may be needed.

Wrong water temperature.

• Symptoms: If the water temperature is too cold the plants will cease to grow and eventually die. Too high of a water temperature the stem plants will have small leaves and long spaces between them and the Rosette plants will show little growth.
• Cause: Malfunctioning or broken aquarium heater. Using a heater with too little wattage to properly heat the water.
• Remedy: Purchase a new aquarium heater designed to handle your size tank. Keep a close eye on your temperature and watch for swings that could tell of a heater problem. For detailed information on heaters please go to the Basics section of the site.

Insufficient light.

 

• Symptoms: The plants are weak and spindly, the leaves are pale Green to Yellow and the stems are frail and thin. On the Rosette plants the stalks are weak and the leaves are small. Stem plants have only a few leaves and long spaces between them. Growth closest to the light is strong and compact, lower sections could be bare of leaves. A fine layer of Diatoms begins to grow.
• Causes: Not using enough wattage for your tank or not enough bulbs. The Fluorescent bulbs have lost there lumen output. The photoperiod is not long enough. Wrong spectrum lights heavy on the Red side, will cause tall and leggy plants. Blue spectrum bulbs will cause low squat growth and those in the Yellow/Green range will cause stunted growth.
• Remedy: Add more lighting, replace your tubes or increase the time your lights stay on. Purchase the right full spectrum bulbs, the so called plant bulbs are a poor choice.

Although general mixed communities remain the most popular freshwater aquaria, many fishkeepers are drawn to certain themes. African cichlids are perhaps the best-known “niche” within the aquarium hobby, but there are many others, and recently we’ve been expanding our selection to help you explore different kinds of fish communities. Here are a few directions you might try.

1. PEACEFUL CICHLIDS

Yes, you read that right. These cichlids get along with most community fish – platies, tetras, gouramies, angels (which are also cichlids), catfish and such. They still should not go with helpless things like goldfish or bettas, and you must remember that fish don’t read fish books, so they don’t always act as is typical for their species. Many of these top out at around 4 inches, making them suitable centerpiece fish for 29 gallon tanks. They are fun because they show the intelligence, personality, territorial displays and parental care of cichlids without all the bloodshed.

Keyhole cichlids, blue acaras, and orange chromides all fit this description. Larger fish (55 gal +) but still on the peaceful end can include chocolate cichlids, jurupari and other geophagus types, and festivums. Slightly pushier but still considered “community” cichlids are severums, firemouths, uarus and blood parrots. Going smaller, dwarf cichlids that are normally OK with community fish can include rams, kribensis, thomasi and apistogrammas. Some of these fish prefer planted tanks, while others will uproot plants; ask us about planting and landscaping for the species you choose.

2. MICRO FISH

The “edge” tanks, picotopes and other desktop systems have opened up a niche for fish that stay under 1 inch. The scarlet badis has been very popular, as have the various algae eating shrimp. We’re adding other fish that will fit those communities including various micro-rasboras and small tetras, featherfin rainbowfish, jewel glassfish, killifish, freshwater gobies, pygmy cories and tiny gourami and betta species. Some of these are sturdy beginner fish, while others ae a bit delicate and require some special attention to food or water chemistry. Other familiar fish will also fit here – guppies, neons or cardinals, harlequin rasboras. Watch out for dwarf frogs; they will go with some of these but their mouths are bigger than you think!

Many of these fish will require a heater; if your micro tank does not have one, we have heaters that are the perfect size. Good plants for these setups include Anubias nana, banana plants, and almost any plant with “dwarf” in its name.

3. BRACKISH AQUARIUMS

Where the river meets the sea you’ll find a unique environment. In estuaries and coastal marshes the water is not fresh or salt, it’s a mixture that varies with the tides. This unique environment has produced fish that are found nowhere else. Archer fish that spit water at flying insects, puffers that inflate when frightened, even mudskippers that climb out of the water are all brackish fish. Some familiar freshwater fish do very well in brackish tanks, including mollies and other livebearers. Most freshwater families have one or more brackish or brackish-tolerant species; there is a brackish cichlid, a rainbowfish, a catfish and a gourami.

Brackish water fish tend to be very resilient; as long as their water has a bit of salt in it, they are easy to keep. Some are fussy about their food; you’ll probably need frozen foods to keep them happy. Some (puffers, scats, monos, archers, tigerfish) are active and competitive, others (glassfish, gobies, halfbeaks, mollies) are more peaceful. If you like hearing people say “Wow, I’ve never seen that before!”, a brackish tank may be right for you.

One of your main goals as a pond builder should be to create a system that delivers top-notch water quality. In order to do this, it’s helpful to be familiar with principles of water chemistry needed to keep these systems in excellent shape.

Water chemistry is, as you may know, an enormous topic. Indeed, fully understanding and mastering its intricacies can be a lifetime pursuit. In the case of installing and maintaining natural water features, however, success can be achieved if you’re familiar with a few key constituents in water — including pH and nutrients — that support plant and animal life.     
       

Hydrogen Power

Most of us have heard of pH, but few pause long enough to learn what this common chemical term is all about.  In essence, pH (which stands for “potential of hydrogen”) describes the relation of hydrogen ions to hydroxyl ions on a 14-point scale. In simple terms, the higher the hydrogen content and the lower the hydroxyl content, the more acidic the water. Conversely, the higher the hydroxyl content and the lower the hydrogen content, the more basic the water becomes.

On that scale, a pH of 7 is neutral. This means that the hydrogen and hydroxyl ions are in complete balance. Numbers higher than 7 are called basic (or, mistakenly, “alkaline” or “hard”), while numbers below 7 are termed acidic.

Typical ponds exist in a pH range from 6 to 11, which covers ground from the slightly acidic to the strongly basic. A pH of 8.2, for example, is highly acceptable for pond water, while a pH of 4 (which is acidic enough to dissolve nails) would be unacceptable if your aim is to sustain aquatic life.

Many factors influence the pH values found in water, with the presence of dissolved materials and metals being perhaps the most influential. These substances are commonly called buffers, and we typically talk about them in terms of alkalinity and hardness.

Alkalinity: When present at high levels, alkaline materials tend to hold the water’s pH at higher levels. The concentration of these buffers is expressed as parts per million (ppm).

Hardness: This is a specific form of alkalinity and refers to the amount of dissolved calcium, calcium carbonate and magnesium in the water. Water is termed “hard” when levels of these materials reach 300 ppm or higher.

When present at higher levels, these buffering factors tend to stabilize pH. In fact, when hardness and alkalinity values are high, it is less likely a pond will experience significant fluctuations in pH.

Aquatic Nutrition

Beyond pH, there are other contributors to water quality that must be considered right up front, namely, the macronutrients and micronutrients that help sustain life in aquatic systems. In all, 17 of these essential ingredients — three macronutrients and 14 micronutrients —  need to be included in ponds and streams.

The macronutrients are what we find in commercial fertilizer mixes. When you see a fertilizer that says 20-10-20, for example, these numbers refer to the percentage (by volume) of nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P), and potassium (K) in the mix. These are the nutrients required in the largest quantities for proper plant growth.

Nitrogen: In a pond, ammonia and nitrate are the most common forms of available nitrogen. High levels of either of those substances are good for plants (especially algae) but are toxic to most fish, so it’s best if they are undetectable or held at very low levels.

Phosphorus:  Again, in a pond situation it is best to have low or non-existent levels of phosphorus, which appears in the water in the form of phosphates. Although in the case of a pond,  these substances are not problematic for fish, they do invite prolific algae growth and therefore should be held at minimal levels.

Potassium: It’s rare to find high levels of potassium in pond ecosystems, but it wouldn’t be a problem in any event, because potassium is a key to both plant and fish metabolisms.

The other category you need to consider features the micronutrients. Fourteen of them are required for life:  boron (B), carbon (C), calcium (Ca), chlorine (Cl), copper (Cu), iron (Fe), hydrogen (H), magnesium (Mg), manganese (Mn), molybdenum (Mo), nickel (Ni), oxygen (O), sodium (Na), sulfur (S) and zinc (Z). Each is required in different ratios for different members of a pond-based ecosystem, and each plays a highly specialized role on the cellular level for all forms of life.

 

Putting your pond to bed for winter doesn’t need to be an arduous process. Sure, it’s sad to say goodbye to your finned friends for a few months, but following a few simple tips will ensure that your fish joyfully greet you again in the spring.

Remove leaves and debris
Putting a pond net over your water feature before leaves start falling from trees is the easiest way to contain and manage leaf control. Once all the leaves have fallen, simply roll up the net, discard the leaves, and put the net away until the next time it’s needed.

If you didn’t install netting, you’ll probably have a build up of leaves and debris that need to be removed. A long-handled pond net makes an easy job of scooping the debris from the bottom of the pond. If you leave the debris on the bottom of the pond, you’ll be creating a bigger mess to face in the spring.

Trim dead or dying foliage
Trimming dead foliage helps remove excessive organic debris that would otherwise decompose in the water. Cut back hardy water lilies just above the base of the plant and cut back marginal plants that could droop over into the water.

Add cold water bacteria
Add cold water bacteria, such as Microbelift Autumn Winter Prep  to help keep pond water clean and clear. Cold Water Beneficial Bacteria contains concentrated strains of beneficial bacteria designed to work in temperatures lower than 50 degrees. Regular use of  Microbelift Autumn Winter Prep will help maintain water quality and clarity, as well as dramatically reduce spring maintenance by digesting debris that may accumulate over the winter months.

If you leave your pond running
Operating your pond and waterfalls during the winter will provide beautiful ice formations for you to enjoy throughout the frosty season. Keep in mind, there will be a bit of maintenance required this time of year, such as topping off the pond due to evaporation. Also, you’ll need to make sure ice formations don’t create dams that can cause unnecessary water loss over the edge of the stream.

If you shut down the pond
Many homeowners in northern climes choose to shut down the pond for the winter months. If you choose this option, remember to:

• Remove the pump from your pond and store it in a warm place like the garage or the basement. Protection from the cold lengthens the life of your pump.
• Drain the water out of the plumbing. This prevents standing water from freezing and expanding, potentially cracking the pipes that connect your filtration system.
• Remove and clean the filter media and spray them thoroughly with a garden hose. Store them in the garage or the basement along with the pump.
• Oxygenate the water by placing a small re-circulating pump, such as the AquaForce on the top shelf of your pond. Oxygenating the water is not only for the sake of your fish, but it also helps keep a hole open in the ice when the surface of your pond starts freezing. This hole allows harmful gasses to escape, and oxygen to get in.
• If it gets really cold where you live, you may consider adding a deicer. At extremely low temperatures, the oxygenation of the water may not be sufficient to keep a hole open in the ice.
• That’s where the deicer saves the day. It complements the bubbler and, together, they’ll keep most any pond open.

Ensure healthy fish before winter
A well-balanced diet creates healthy, happy fish. You want to make sure your fish are in good condition before they go into hibernation. When the water temperature falls below 60 degrees, the metabolism and digestion of your fish begins to slow down. A high fiber Cold Water Fish Food is scientifically formulated to properly nourish your fish during these lower temperatures. Be sure to stop feeding your fish when water temperature falls below 50 degrees.

Taking a little time and effort to prepare your pond for winter not only helps your fish survive their winter slumber, but makes your spring maintenance much easier. Be sure to follow these winter guidelines so you can experience the greatest joy from your pond when spring rolls around once again.

 

1. 
   Never clean anything with soap.  Use only water.  If anything has ever touched soap, throw it away.  Avoid
   toxins introduced on your hands: hand lotion, gasoline or motor oil, tobacco.

 

2. Always dechlorinate your tap water.  Make sure new water is the same temperature as your old water.

 

3. Filters need to run all the time.  If your old filter is too noisy, get a new one; don’t turn it off at night!

 

4.  Stocking:  Start with a LOW population: about 1 gourami-sized, 2 platy-sized or 4 neon-sized fish per 10 gallons.

 

5.  The first month is the hardest.  For the first 30 days:
6. Do NOT add more fish, even if some die.
7. Feed only once per day.  Food should be completely gone in 30 seconds, or you gave them too much.
8. Don’t do any water changes unless you have an emergency (if you do, call us!).  Yes, do replace water lost to evaporation.
9. Can’t wait a month?  We have products to help speed this process (bottled good bacteria).

 

6. After the first month, bring us a cup of tank water for a free water test.  We’ll let you know if you’re ready for more fish, and help you choose fish that get along together.  You can add a few fish every week until your tank is fully stocked; don’t put too many in at once.

 

7. After the first month, begin regular tank maintenance.  Remove and replace 1/4 of the water every week, using a gravel cleaner.  Always dechlorinate and match temperature.

 

8. After the first month, a good feeding schedule is twice daily. Feed SMALL portions.  A more varied diet will give you healthier, more colorful fish; ask for suggestions.

 

9. Depending on the brand, your filter probably has a cartridge that should be replaced monthly, and another part that should NEVER be cleaned or replaced; it’s a home for good bacteria that your tank needs to thrive.  Ask us if you’re not sure.

Freshwater fish are found in many different types of habitats in nature. Some species are found in cold, fast moving rapids while others may live in warm, nearly stagnant water. Sometimes this can occur even among the same species. Some species of marine fish are known to swim into coastal estuaries to spawn and as the offspring mature, although born in freshwater, they gradually move into the ocean. Some Neo-tropical cichlids venture out into the sea to visit coastal islands to feed and return to their freshwater habitats at the end of the day.

In short, most freshwater fish must be able to adapt to changes in temperature, changes in pH, and/or dissolved solids or organics in their water because seasonal temperature and rainfall (or lack of rainfall) or any number of other factors may alter chemistry in the rivers and streams in which they have evolved.

The important thing to remember is that, although there are exceptions, the vast majority of tropical freshwater fish commonly found in the hobby are produced in captivity (either on fish farms or in breeding warehouses) and will thrive in the following water parameters.

pH: 6.8-7.2

Temperature: 77 to 82 degrees F

Alkalinity (KH): 80 to 180 parts per million (ppm)

Ammonia: ZERO

Nitrite: ZERO; nitrite is toxic at a pH of 7.0 or lower.

Nitrate: as low as possible.

Salinity: as a general rule, 1.003 ppt is adequate. A few freshwater species (Discus and Danios most notably) are not salt-tolerant. A planted aquarium should not have salt added to the water as most plants are intolerant of salt.

The above water parameters are the ideal conditions at which general community freshwater fish should be maintained. Tetras, Barbs, Danios, Rainbow fish, many Livebearers, Catfish and Plecos, Loaches and Botias, Gouramis, peaceful Neo-tropical cichlids (Angelfish, Severums, Eartheaters, etc) and the many dwarf riverine cichlids (found in both hemispheres) make up the majority of tropical fish commonly found in the hobby and will all live together peacefully as long as they are provided with enough room and food. All of these fish will enjoy an aquarium that includes live plants, although some species will dig into the substrate and others may nibble on the leaves and roots.

Brackish water fish (puffers, dragon gobies, some eels, etc) should be kept at a pH between 7.5 to 8.0 with a KH of 120 to 180 ppm. Salinity should measure 1.005 to 1.010. The temperature should be between 75 and 79 degrees F.

Discus are a type of South American cichlid. They must be kept very warm (87 to 90 degrees F) and will not tolerate even moderate concentrations of dissolved organics (i.e. nitrates) for long. 50% water changes at least twice a week are necessary to keep them healthy and maintain them in an aquarium.

The Rift Lake cichlids of South Africa commonly present in the hobby originate from the lakes Malawi, Tanganyika, and Victoria. The vast majority of the specimens found in the trade are bred in captivity. Rift Lake cichlids are best kept in groups in aquariums of 75 gallons or more with plenty of rockwork and caves. They should be kept in alkaline water with a pH of 7.5 to 9.0 and a salinity of 1.005. The temperature should be 75 to 79 degrees F.

TANKBUSTERS

There are several species of fish that remain popular that grow too large and/or are too aggressive for the average home aquarium. Arowanas, Pacu, Piranha, Gar-pikes, giant growing Catfish, and certain species of Neo-tropical cichlids (festae, umbriferum, dovii, peacock bass, etc) and Tanganyikan cichlids (frontosa, b. microlepis) will either grow too large to maintain or are simply too territorial to be kept in all but the largest (125 gallons at minimum; preferably larger) home aquariums. All of these fish are cute when they are babies, but unless the hobbyist is willing to provide adequate space for them as they grow, these fish should not be chosen for the home aquarium.

FRESHWATER FISH FAMILIES

Anabantids:

These include the Bettas and Gouramis. Almost all of these fish are good for a general community tank and will thrive in the water parameters listed above.

Catfish:

This group ranges in size from small peaceful Corydoras to giant growing Mekong and European Wels catfish. This group also includes the popular Plecos and Panaques. Some catfish are nick-named “sharks” (i.e. Black Fin sharks, Iredescent sharks). As a general rule the small species are great general community fish. As the larger species mature, they will usually eat their tankmates if they can.

Characins:

This group includes the Tetras, which are a generally hardy, schooling fish. They are happiest in a large shoal of their own kind. Most species of Tetras do not grow large and can be kept in the general community.

Pacu, Piranha, Hydrolicus, and the Tiger Pikes are also in this family. Because of their size at maturity and/or predatory nature, these species are not a good choice for most home aquariums.

Cichlds:

These include Angelfish, Discus, Severums, Oscars, as well as the Jack Dempsey, Green Terror, Jaguar, Red Devil, Red Terror, Umbee, Wolf and Midas cichlids from the new world and the Rift Lake cichlids from South Africa. With the exception of small growing river species (which are found in both hemispheres), these fish are not considered general community and grow large and aggressive. All cichlids are aggressive to some degree when spawning; some species will annihilate all tankmates to protect their spawn.

Water parameters vary with the species.

There are a few hybrid cichlids such as the so called “Blood Parrots” and Flower Horn cichlids that are popular as well. These hybrids should not be kept in a community unless the tank is over 100 gallons.

Cyprinids:

This is another large and varied family of fish that includes Barbs, Danios, Loaches and Botias, so called “sharks“ (Rainbow, Red Tail, Black, Bala, etc.) and Rainbow fish. Almost all of these fish will be happiest in a large school of their own kind. Generally, water parameters are the same as mentioned above. The smaller species are good general community fish but some Danios and Rainbow fish will be sensitive to even small amounts of salt in the water.

Koi and Goldfish are also in this family. Koi and Goldfish grow large and like cooler water so they aren’t a good choice for a community tank.

Livebearers:

This group includes Mollies, Platties, Guppies, and Swordtails. They are best kept in tanks with other livebearers; however they may also do well in a planted aquarium or in a peaceful brackish habitat. Mollies will actually thrive in saltwater.

The text above is intended to be a general guideline; always research the specific requirements of any species of fish you want to keep or breed in your aquarium.