Cycling A New Freshwater Aquarium
CYCLING A NEW FRESHWATER AQUARIUM
- A tank does not start cycling until there is some organic waste to work on. There is no reason to run a tank with nothing in it for any length of time other than to make sure the temperature is holding and the tank doesn’t leak.
- Starting fish load: 1/5 to 1/10 of the tank’s eventual fish load. This is about 4 neons, or 2 platies, or 1 gourami/ small cichlid, per 10 gallons. Live plants: no limit; the more the better!
- Starting fish selection: Most fish are fine for cycling, but there are some that are too delicate. Usually these will be marked with a RED border on their price tag; they include cardinals, rummy nose, hatchets, clown loaches, rams and discus. Don’t bother with algae eaters; there is nothing to eat yet.
- Bottled bacteria: Purchase your favorite brand and READ THE LABEL. Each type has different dosing instructions, and some are very different! A tank will cycle with or without bottled bacteria, but it will happen faster with it. It still takes time – there is no such thing as instant cycling. Safe Start or Stability are recommended.
- Time to cycle: without bottled bacteria, typically about 30 days but can be as long as 60. With bottled bacteria, up to 7 days. Each tank is different. You only know for certain by testing ammonia and nitrite.
- During the cycle: Do NOT add more fish; even if some die don’t replace them. As nitrite rises gradually, fish can change their blood chemistry to adapt and survive, but fish suddenly exposed to the same high nitrite level may die.
- During the cycle: feed only once per day, to keep the waste load down. Water changes may or may not be necessary during the cycle, but it can’t hurt to do them. For peace of mind we recommend checking ammonia and nitrites daily during the first week and weekly there after.
- After the cycle: A tank is cycled when Ammonia and Nitrite have returned to ZERO (not “almost zero”). Now you can increase feedings to twice daily, and can begin adding more fish. Add a few every week, not a whole bunch at once (exception: African cichlids may need to be added in large groups to reduce aggression).
Aquatic Nutrition – Fish and Coral
Aquatic Nutrition – Fish and Coral
Over the last 5 years, the aquarium hobby has seen great strides made in feeds and nutritional supplements for both fish and corals. This has enabled us to keep a greater variety of delicate species, keep fish healthier and longer, captive breed many species including some saltwater fish and feed plants and coral to achieve unparalleled growth. All in all, this has made the hobby easier for all hobbyists.
Fish Foods
The staple generic flake food has now morphed into an array of specific species’ flake, pellet and frozen foods as with treats now for your fish. For many years, the hobby put prime importance on water quality and just fed their fish whatever flake food they could find. The aquaculture industry has put significant Research & Development into understanding the important aspects of fish foods that has now trickled into the aquarium hobby. We have found that nutrition is just as important as water quality in the maintenance of these animals and is primarily important when the hobbyist is breading fish. A variety of foods from each category – flake, pellet, frozen and treats – should also be given to the community tank to achieve the best health, coloration and stability of the inhabitants.
Flake Food
Flake food has been in the hobby practically since the hobby’s inception. Flake food has changed from being primarily fish meal and other generic ingredients to having many other types of ingredients and supplements mixed in the flake. The flakes are fortified with many vitamins and minerals. The foods are now even formulated to target various types of fish – herbivores, omnivores and carnivores. The negative of flake food is with how it is processed making it very thin and the heated processing destroys some of its nutrients. Due to the surface area of the foods, vitamins in the fortified foods will rapidly start decomposing as soon as the package is opened. Especially with flake foods, a hobbyist should never buy more than one month’s supply per can to ensure the foods maintain their value.
Pellet Food
Pellet foods are typically round in nature although some are in the stick variety mostly seen in pond fish foods. Pellet foods are manufactured in various sizes to address the needs of most sizes of fish seen in the aquarium industry. Of the dry foods, these are the most nutritious, due to how they are processed. Like flake food, there are specific formulations to target the majority of the fish and vitamin/mineral fortified. Pellet foods will also feed fish in all parts of the water column as some float, others sink slowly and some sink quickly. Note that if you have an aquarium with an overflow, the slow and fast sinking variety work the best as the food enters the water column rapidly rather than being swept across the surface of the aquarium water into the overflow and now collecting in the mechanical portion of the filtration system.
Wafer food
Wafers are for target feeding certain types of fish. These are typically in freshwater and feed off the bottom of the aquarium or are of the algae eating variety. Fishes in this category are of the catfish, loach, botia, plecostomus, and etc. species.
Frozen Food
Frozen foods seem to have the largest variety available.
There are:
- Solid meat foods – brine shrimp, blood worms, daphnia, Mysis shrimp, krill, muscles, clam, silversides, etc.
- Formulated foods – herbivore, omnivore and carnivore diets
- Specific Species foods – discus, angel, trigger, shark, etc.
Frozen foods are able to provide other nutrients that flake and pellet can not. The newer formulations more mimic what the fish prefer to eat in their Mother Nature environment. Frozen foods should be part of any fish diet and then supplemented with pellet and flake for variety purposes.
Coral Foods
Over the last five years, coral specific foods have flooded the market. These foods have promoted explosive coral growth, coloration and health by allowing us to keep corals never before in the past. The acceleration in coral propagation is directly related to this change. The manufacturers have developed refrigerated and unrefrigerated liquids and frozen foods to address the needs of most of the corals currently being kept in the hobby.
Treats
Brine shrimp was the only “treat” that we had until the last few years for our favorite fish. Many people would feed their fish a staple of Brine Shrimp which is actually harmful to them. The hobby now has great treats for our finned friends. We have frozen meats that most any fish will jump out of the water for and just recently, canned morsels of 3 types of worms and krill. Koi treats are also specially formulated for our pond friends. Treats should only be fed 2-3 times per week and never as a staple food.
Supplements
As all fish food is processed, even the best fish feeds do not maintain the level of vitamins, minerals, omega acids, etc. that the fish find in nature. It is always a great idea to fortify all fish feed on a daily basis with these type supplements or at a minimum of 3 feedings per week. Garlic and banana extract are two great appetite stimulates that are now available. Garlic has also been found to have some minor therapeutic value against parasites. Many aquarists feed garlic every day in saltwater environments and manufacturers are now fortifying their foods on a routine basis.
Feeding
The majority of fish only need to be fed 1 time per day. The exception would be truly herbivore only fish. These fish are grazers and should be fed 2-3 times per day when a natural food source is not provided within the aquatic environment. Fish should consume all food provided within 1 minute. You should also try to mimic the part of the water column that the fish feed in – top, middle or bottom. Ensure the food that makes it to the bottom is definitely eaten though. Pay attention to the species of fish you have and provide them the foods they specifically need as you will see better coloration and have a healthier specimen.
Fish will always be voracious while eating. This is their normal feeding habit as they must eat quickly in nature or either miss out on the meal or maybe even become a meal for a larger fish. Therefore, just because they may act like they are starved, this does not mean you need to feed any more than their normal portion. A well balanced aquatic environment also will have mid-water feeders as with bottom feeders. Your filter cartridge is also a barometer for proper feeding habits such that it should never become smelly or slimy on a normally stocked aquarium within 3-4 weeks between filter changes. Remember, when in doubt, underfeed. It is very hard to kill fish by underfeeding, but you can quickly contaminate a tank by overfeeding, even if the fish eat all of it. Feeding high quality foods to fish will yield the same results as feeding high quality food to dogs and cats – they metabolize more of the food, excrete less waste and are healthier.
In summary, the better foods will provide a healthier aquatic environment from both a water quality parameter and a fish health perspective. Prepare them a varied diet from all classes of food and remember to give them treats on a regular basis. Feeding is a fun time for the fish so have fun feeding them. Happy aquarium keeping.
Aquarium Maintenance Checklist
| Aquarium Maintenance Checklist: Daily |
| § Visual Inspection of Aquarium Equipment Spend a few minutes each day verifying that your pumps are working properly, that your heater and chiller are fully functional and that your other equipment—calcium reactor, protein skimmer, Ultraviolet Sterilizer, media reactors, Ozonizer—are operating as intended. Perhaps you’re already checking on your lights but it’s a good idea to check on all your hardware, like an auto top-off, once each day. I find the best time to perform the visual inspection of equipment is while I’m feeding my fish and corals.§ Visual Inspection of Aquarium Livestock Look closely at each of your fish for signs of disease (any salt grain looking spots, sores, missing scales, bleeding, etc.) and aggressive wounds (again missing scales caused from another inhabitant that may need to be removed). Scan each coral to see if it is healthy and that there are no “pests” present (red flatworms, red bugs, acro-eating flatworms and harmful Nudibranchs, for example). During feeding while your livestock is out/open is the best time to perform the visual inspection. § Monitor Aquarium Temperature |
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| Aquarium Maintenance Checklist: Weekly | |
| § Water Tests Test important water parameters at least once each week. This includes but is not limited to salinity, calcium, alkalinity, nitrates, phosphates and magnesium. Master or multi-test kits are inexpensive and generally include tests for the parameters most important to keep an eye on.§ Water Change Not everyone is on the weekly water change schedule, but it’s a good rule of thumb to change your water each week or every other week. Use any high-quality siphon or ask our staff members which one they prefer while performing water changes in the store. For more effective crevice cleaning, use a turkey baster or narrow stream power head (like Cobalt’s Maxi Jet 1200) to blow out any trapped detritus that has accumulated in your rockwork. Then use your siphon to remove it from the tank during your water change. § Clean Protein Skimmer Collection Cup |
| § Clean/Scrub Algae from Tank Interior Algae grows quickly in a reef aquarium due to the high lighting requirements. Using a magnetic algae scraper once per week will keep your tank walls algae-free. Most magnetic algae scrapers can be kept inside your aquarium which is not only convenient but also means you never have to get your hands wet while cleaning. If you have a glass aquarium and are dealing with some really stubborn algae growth, try Magfloat’s scraper attachment.If you prefer getting your hands wet, there are certainly alternatives to magnetic algae scrapers. Hand-held algae pads are easy to work with. One of my personal favorites is the Python Algae Mitt. Kent Marine has a popular line of blade-style algae scrapers called Proscrapers that effectively cut through all different types of algae and are available in various sizes and styles. TIP: I use Marineland’s Hang-On Tank Magnum 250 Canister Filter to catch algae that has been scraped loose or a small diameter vinyl tube. The included micron cartridge catches algae so you can easily remove it from the tank. The cartridges are reusable and include instructions for cleaning. They are also great for catching the detritus blown off live rock. They can be used on tanks of all sizes to help maintain pristine water quality. Additionally, the Cobalt hang-on maintenance filter works exceptionally well or even us a small diameter vinyl tube to a sewer or bucket. § Wipe Down Tank Exterior
§ Check Auto Top-Off Reservoir Aquarium Maintenance Checklist: 1-2 Months |
| § Clean Pumps and Powerheads I have several pumps performing various jobs for my aquarium system. To keep things simple, I’ll clean a few pumps one month and then clean the remainder the following month. To remove coralline algae from aquarium pumps/powerheads I soak them in an Equipment Cleaner and use a brush kit to clean the impeller and housing. Don’t forget to clean the pumps being used with skimmers, chillers and reactors. Keeping your pumps and powerheads clean will make them last and perform like new.§ Change Carbon and/or Phosphate Media Carbon and phosphate media should be changed about once per month when using a very high quality media. Using a media reactor (like Two Little Fishies Phosban Reactor, Vertex media reactor, MRC media reactor) for carbon or phosphate media (GFO – Granulated Feric Oxide) not only makes changing out the media easier, it maximizes the potential of the media itself by preventing the water from bypassing it. |
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| § Water Change Perhaps we’re not all weekly water changers. But the longest a reef aquarium should go without a water change is one month. I prefer a 10-15% water change every other week or a 25% water change monthly. This assumes very high quality filtration. Your test kits will let you know if this is adequate.§ Clean and Calibrate Probes (pH in particular) Use a soft-bristle toothbrush to clean probes. Gently brush the tip of the probe to get rid of anything that has built-up or accumulated on it. Soaking in white vinegar can also be acceptable. Recalibrate the probe afterward to ensure it is still providing accurate readings. Aquarium Maintenance Checklist: 6-12 Months |
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| § Clean Return Pump The impeller on your return pump will undoubtedly accumulate some slime or calcium build-up during a 6-12 month stretch that will reduce its efficiency. Get that pump in like-new condition by taking it apart every 6-12 months and cleaning the gunk out. This will extend the life of the pump and enable it to push the maximum amount of water it was intended to. You can use vinegar to soak the parts, but sometimes you will need to use a commercial soaking solution to achieve “like new condition”.§ Replace Aquarium Light Bulbs Depending on the type of bulbs you are running over your reef, it might be time to replace your bulbs. If you are not sure how frequently to change your aquarium light bulbs, this is a very general guideline:
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| § Replace RO or RO/DI Filter Media Most reverse osmosis equipment manufacturers recommend replacing the sediment, carbon and DI cartridges every 6 months depending on individual use. Keep a journal to log your replacement schedule and/or use a TDS meter to determine when it’s time to make a change to the DI and/or RO membrane. Your RO membrane will last about two years; with the addition of a flush valve it may last three or four.§ Replace Monitor Controller Probes Probes to monitor pH, ORP, Salinity, etc. generally last 12-18 months. If your probes become difficult to calibrate or go out of calibration quickly, it’s time to replace them. |
Xenia
Xenia
Class Anthozoa, Order Alcyonacea, Family Xeniidae, Genus Xenia
Common names: pulse coral, Xenia
Natural origin: Indo-Pacific
Sensitivity (Level 1): Though generally very easy to care for, these corals can be somewhat unpredictable. Some colonies show impressive tolerance and forgiveness of varying conditions while others do not. They are also notorious for sudden and unexplainable death and do not ship well.
Feeding: Specific feeding habits are largely unknown. They are thought to absorb nutrients through their soft tissue (possibly aided by the pulsing of the coral).
Lighting (Level 6 to 10): Xenia can adapt to a wide range of lighting conditions, but seem to prefer more intense lighting. As always, be sure to properly acclimate to knew lighting.
Water flow: Moderate to high water flow is important. Higher water flow may increase pulsing activity.
Placement: Though not aggressive corals, like star polyps, they are relentlessly fast growing when healthy. They can become a nuisance in tanks with slower growing stony corals. When injured or dying, they can release toxins. Carbon filtration and prompt removal of injured/dying species can help control any ill-effects of this toxic release.
General: Pulsing activity is something of a mystery (its function and mechanism are currently unknown). Xenia in aquariums sometimes stop pulsing (often without observable cause) but continue to live and grow regardless. Some aquarists have noticed a cessation of pulsing with low pH and/or alkalinity. Polyps will close at night and when stressed. They may take a few days or even weeks to open up in a new environment.
Sensitivity:
Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.
Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.
Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.
Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.
Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists
Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.
Lighting Scale (approximations):
Level 0 – no light
…
Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting
…
Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting
…
Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting
Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)
Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)
…
Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)
Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.
It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.
Acclimation:
Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.
Step 1:Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.
Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.
Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).
Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.
To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.
General “Disclaimer”
These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.
Ammonia
#1 Killer: Ammonia
The presence of ammonia in aquarium water is the #1 killer of fish. The primary sources of ammonia are the decaying of organic material (primarily uneaten food) and excreted waste from the fishes’ gills.
An ammonia level as low as .5 part per million (ppm) creates stress upon fish compromising the natural immune system. It has been demonstrated with laboratory experiments involving koi (and thus, we assume, equally true with other fish species) that an ammonia level of 2 ppm causes the natural immune system of the fish to cease functioning. The fish does not have the strength to cope with both the ammonia-related stress and disease prevention. As the elevated ammonia level presents the more immediate possibility of death, all of the fishes’ energy must be devoted to combating that threat.
The presence of ammonia any time after the nitrification cycle has completed itself is the fault of the hobbyist and must be corrected. Its reoccurrence is precipitated by (but not limited to):
• Inadequate and/or poorly maintained biological filtration.
• Overfeeding.
• Overcrowding.
• Not performing periodic water changes and gravel vacuuming.
• Allowing dead inhabitants to decay. Ammonia problems can only be corrected by:
• Doing partial water changes and adding ammonia-digesting bacteria (Bio-Booster) until the level present approaches zero;
• By improving your individual hobbyist habits and maintenance skills. Temporary methods of reducing ammonia levels in order of preference include: • Suspending and/or reducing feeding.
• Dosing with Bio-Booster.
• Introducing an ammonia binder into the aquarium (freshwater or pond only)
Zoanthids
Zoanthids
Class Anthozoa, Subclass Zoantharia, Order Zoanthidea
Common names: zoos, zoanthids, button polyps (sometimes inconsistently given names like “fire and ice” and “people eaters” based on phenotypic characteristics such as coloration and size that may have little or nothing to do with actual species identification)
Natural origin: wide-ranging, Indo-pacific
Sensitivity (Level 1): Zoanthids are usually quite tolerant and easy to care for.
Feeding: Appropriate food particle size depends on the size of the particular coral’s polyp mouth size. Though usually not necessary, some aquarists target feed to encourage faster growth.
Lighting (Level 4 to 10): Though more intense lighting is usually preferred, many zoanthids can adapt to much lower light intensities. As with any zooxanthellate coral, coloration can change in response to changing lighting conditions.
Water flow: These corals do well with moderate to high water flow.
Placement: Though not aggressive corals, they are fast growing when healthy and need considerable space (like Xenia and star polyps, they can become a nuisance in tanks with slower growing stony corals competing for space).
General: Polyps will close at night and when stressed. They may take a few days (or even weeks) to open up in a new environment. WARNING: Zoanthids secrete a slime that is highly toxic to humans. It’s wise to use gloves when touching these corals. Do not touch polyps if you have an open wound. Do not touch eyes or mouth after touching polyps.
Sensitivity:
Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.
Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.
Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.
Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.
Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists
Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.
Lighting Scale (approximations):
Level 0 – no light
…
Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting
…
Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting
…
Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting
Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)
Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)
…
Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)
Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.
It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.
Acclimation:
Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.
Step 1:
Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.
Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.
Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).
Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.
To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.
General “Disclaimer”
These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.
Why Ultraviolet (UV) Protection?
Aquarium ultraviolet (UV) water sterilizers for fresh and saltwater aquariums have never quite caught on in the same way as their pond equivalents, perhaps because they are not used for the same reason – although they should be! The result of a pond’s UV unit destroying singlecelled algae is almost a happy accident, as they are generally used to just clear up “green water” and not for any other sterilizing properties. However, the main function of any such unit, indoors or out, can and should be to control pathogens and harmful bacteria by halting cell reproduction, a property of ultraviolet light discovered in 1877. UV sterilizers produce shortwave ultraviolet light that kills waterborne algae spores with ease, provided they are exposed to the radiation for a sufficient length of time. The UV light actually breaks the DNA chain, thus preventing the algae spores from reproducing.
The reasons for using UV sterilizers are compelling. For example, a typical pond or aquarium may have species of fish from many different sources. These fish come with specific pathogens found in their locations and have a natural immunity or resistance already developed. Other fish that come into contact with them in the close confines of a pond or aquarium (of any size) have little or no resistance and consequently the spread of disease is a very real threat. UV sterilization should not be used when ponds or aquariums are being treated with antibiotics or when starting a new biological filter. Also, when outdoors, UV sterilizers should be protected from direct effects of the weather, such as rain and freezing. And please remember, always turn off the power when performing routine maintenance on electrical items. We have a a full array of quartz-lined ultraviolet sterilizers available, come in and ask about them today!
Water Quality and Aquarium Maintenance
Improper water quality and inadequate aquarium maintenance are the primary causes of fish disease and fish death. The purpose of this handout is to briefly discuss the various water quality parameters, which need to be understood and monitored to ensure a healthy aquarium environment. We then will discuss aquarium maintenance as this directly impacts your overall water quality.
Water Quality Parameters:
- “Tap water is supplied for one purpose – human consumption. It is carefully screened, cleaned, treated with prophylactic chemicals and pumped into our homes for our use. It does not, however, carry a guarantee that that it is suitable for fishkeeping!” (The Encyclopedia of Tropical Aquarium Fish; Dick Mills and Dr. Gwynne Vevers; Tetra Press; page 24). Reverse osmosis (RO) water is “tap water” that has been processed to strip 99% of all contaminants out of the “tap water.” This pure water is absolutely the best water to use for all types of aquariums. Reference is made to “How to Control Algae” handout.
- It is imperative that the hobbyists have an understanding of the properties of water, the importance of maintaining water quality and the necessity of using test kits to monitor water quality.
- In all instances it should be noted that the appropriate water temperature is as critical a factor to the success of your aquarium as any other parameter. Understand your specific temperature needs and maintain them accordingly.
- The following water qualities can, and should, be tested with the appropriate aquarium test kits on a regular, continuing basis or whenever something appears to be amiss.
pH:
pH of water is a measure of acidity or alkalinity. The pH ranges from 0 to 14, with 7 as the neutral point. Above pH 7 water is alkaline; below 7 it is acidic. Charlotte tap water will USUALLY measure between 8.0 and 9.5. This is NOT ACCEPTABLE for MOST freshwater species you will encounter. Goldfish, Gouramis, Livebearers, South and Central American Cichlids, Tetras, Rainbows, Danios, etc. require different water parameters. ALWAYS test tap water pH prior to making freshwater aquarium water changes and adjust as required.
Ammonia:
Ammonia is the most toxic product formed in water. Sources of ammonia in aquarium water are fish respiration, digestion, and decaying foods. Freshwater fish begin to be stressed at levels of .50 ppm (parts per million). Marine aquaria levels should be less than .05 ppm; reef tanks at 0 ppm. Note that toxic ammonia converts to nontoxic ammonium when the pH is below 7.0. 2
Nitrite:
Nitrite is the toxic intermediary product created in the process of breaking down organic waste products. It occurs between ammonia and nitrate in the breakdown sequence. Levels above 1.0 ppm are to be avoided in fresh water aquaria. Saltwater fish levels should also be maintained at less than 1.0 ppm; although this is not as critical due to nitrite not easily entering saltwater fish’s blood. Nitrite levels in reef aquaria should be 0 ppm.
Nitrate:
Nitrate is a mildly poisonous end product of the breakdown of nitrogenous waste products in the aquarium. While thought to be harmless to MOST freshwater species, freshwater aquarium levels should not exceed 300 ppm. Less than 50 ppm is the desired level for saltwater aquaria. Reef tanks should be maintained at less than 5 ppm. High nitrate levels in both freshwater and saltwater aquariums will promote excessive algae growth. Note that “tap water” contains nitrate and many other harmful contaminates.
Chlorine:
Chlorine is a chemical additive used to destroy bacteria and is in Charlotte tap water. It is lethal to fish above .2 ppm. A good brand dechlorinator will eliminate chlorine instantly and should be used when using water sources other than reverse osmosis or deionized water.
Hardness:
Hardness is a measure of dissolved calcium and magnesium salts in water. Charlotte tap water usually ranges from soft to medium hardness. This is ACCEPTABLE for MOST freshwater fish and plant species. If the water is too hard for your specific application (such as breeding certain species), simply mix it with RO or deionized water until the required hardness is obtained. Most hobbyists will not have to measure this particular water quality.
Alkalinity: Alkalinity is a numeric measure of the resistance of water to a change in pH as acid is added. The higher the number (i.e. 2 MEQ/L – 3.5 MEQ/L), the more resistant pH is to dropping. Marine tanks should have an alkalinity of 3.2 MEQ/L or higher.
SALTWATER SPECIFICS
Specific Gravity:
The specific gravity (or density) is the ratio of the amount of total dissolved salts in water when compared to pure water. Pure water has a specific gravity of 1.000. As more salts are added to the water, the specific gravity increases. Marine aquariums should have a STABLE specific gravity of 1.022 to 1.027 with a median value of 1.023 being best.
Calcium:
Calcium carbonate is the building block of coral skeletons, clamshells and calcareous algae. Hard corals, soft corals, clams, snails, scallops, shrimps, crabs, starfish, sea urchins, and some algae extract calcium from the water continuously. Reef aquarium levels should be at least 400 ppm.
Phosphates: Phosphate is a salt, commonly found in tap water, which serves as an algae nutrient. Maximum phosphate levels are 2 – 3 ppm with less than .05 ppm being ideal. Reef tanks should be maintained at less than .05 ppm. Charlotte tap water has a phosphate level of 1 ppm. 3
AQUARUIM MAIN TEN A CE
Gravel Vacuuming and Partial Water Changes
- Regular, periodic partial water changes are mandatory to maintain proper water chemistry. A 25% water change every two weeks is recommended. Smaller volume, more frequent water changes are even more beneficial.
- Fish respiration, fish digestion and the decay of uneaten food generate three nitrogenous compounds; ammonia; nitrite, and nitrate. The first two, ammonia and nitrite, are toxic to fish and extended exposure to them or introduction of fish to these compounds from non-contaminated water will result in disease and/or death. Nitrate is considered to be harmless to most fresh water species. At low levels it is stressful to saltwater fish; at high levels it can be toxic.
- In an established (cycled) WELL-MAINTAINED aquarium there are nitrifying bacteria present which will convert ammonia and nitrite into a relatively non-toxic compound (nitrate). Nitrates are best removed from the aquarium by performing partial water changes. There are also nitratereducing compounds which work well when utilized on a regular basis.
- When performing partial water changes, the gravel should be simultaneously vacuumed to remove trapped debris and uneaten food to insure an adequate oxygen supply to the nitrifying bacteria and to remove undesirable nutrients.
Gravel vacuuming procedures:
- Unplug heaters, power filters, powerheads, and air pumps.
- Remove ornamentation other than live plants.
- “Walk” the gravel cleaner across the entire bottom of the aquarium, agitating the substrate in the gravel cleaning tube until the water being extracted is free of debris. If water is being removed too quickly to remove all the debris, pinch the gravel cleaner hose to restrict the water flow. If you have a plenum in your saltwater aquarium, only the top ½” of sand should be cleaned so as not to disturb the anaerobic bed.
- In freshwater aquariums add dechlorinator and aquarium salt per manufacturer’s instructions TO THE AQUARIUM based on the volume of water you are changing.
- Refill the aquarium with water of the SAME temperature and pH as that of the aquarium water.
- In saltwater aquariums, the replacement water must be dechlorinated, premixed, and prebuffered before being added to the aquarium. ALWAYS dechlorinate the water prior to the addition of sea salt. Some marine salts now include a dechlorinator in their ingredients. However, this dechlorinator is not uniformly distributed throughout and should not be relied upon as the sole source of dechlorination. Premixed saltwater should be aerated or otherwise agitated for 24 hours before being introduced into the aquarium to insure that the specific gravity and pH are correct. The use of RO or deionized water is highly recommended.
- Restart filters, powerheads, and air pumps.
- WAIT fifteen minutes BEFORE plugging the heaters back in.
There are specific circumstances that will somewhat alter the above procedures. These include:
- If the pH is extremely low, several small volume water changes (approximately 15% must be done twenty-four hours apart. A single, large volume water change will put the fish into pH shock, probably resulting in multiple fish deaths. This is particularly crucial if ammonium is also present. Raising the pH will chemically alter the ammonium increasing its toxicity by turning it into ammonia.
- DO NOT do gravel vacuum/partial water changes while the nitrification cycle is occurring unless you are experiencing multiple fish deaths. Water changes will lengthen the time frame for this required cycle to complete itself. The addition of Bio Booster is a must!!
- If your aquarium is not equipped with a Penguin or Emperor Bio Wheel system or an undergravel filter, gravel vacuuming and filter maintenance should not be performed at the same time. The consequent loss of a large percentage of nitrifying bacteria can cause temporary ammonia and nitrite related stress to the fish. These two functions should be performed at one-week intervals.
- Continually “topping off” aquariums to replace evaporated water increases toxicity concentration as toxins do not evaporate. Such water replacements do not constitute a water change.
Power filters, Powerheads, and Water pumps:
- Periodically remove the impeller. Clean the impeller and the impeller seating area to remove debris and slime coating, which will retard the electromagnetic field.
- Keep the intake strainer and/or prefilter clear of debris.
- NEVER restrict the intake flow of water. Any adjustments to flow rate must be made to the exhaust.
- Clean protein skimmer tops weekly (or as needed) to maintain a clear view of the operating level of the skimmer.
- Other specific maintenance per manufacturer’s instructions.
Filter Media:
- Disposable filter cartridges should be replaced monthly on an average stocked aquarium. Filters recirculate the same water over and over. Regardless of where particulates collect – whether it is the aquarium bottom or in the filter – they will be broken down to produce ammonia. Monthly replacement of filter cartridges will remove the particulate from the aquarium and keep the flow rate from slowing down due to clogging. This will also keep the carbon within the cartridge fresh.
- Reusable and/or biological filter media should be washed in water taken from the aquarium only if needed. This should not be needed on a regular basis. Chlorine in tap water is lethal to nitrifying bacteria, so DO NOT rinse the biological filter with tap water.
- Soaking in a solution of unscented household bleach and water (one part bleach to five parts water) for several hours should clean micron cartridges. Rinse thoroughly under pressure. As an added precaution, they can be soaked in a solution of water and dechlorinator prior to being reused.
- Chemical filter media; carbon, ammo carb and ammonia chips should be replaced each month. These media remove molecules of organic compounds from the water UNTIL the surface area becomes saturated. Once saturated, these media are no longer effective and may, in fact, begin releasing compounds back into the water.
- Several manufacturers now offer rechargeable chemical media as an alternative to carbon. These should be used and recharged in accordance with manufacturer’s instructions.
Important: If for any reason, the power filter has been shut off for two hours or less, biological, chemical and mechanical filter media should be thoroughly rinsed with aquarium water before restarting the filter. To preserve existing nitrifying bacteria, rinse the biological filter media with water taken from the aquarium. If the power filter has been off for more than two hours, the mechanical and chemical filter media must be discarded and the biological media thoroughly rinsed with aquarium water. Toxic anaerobic bacteria will be present which may cause fish deaths.
Air Pumps and Air Stones:
- Diaphragms and flapper valves have to be replaced periodically as symptomized by reduced output and/or noisy operation.
- If your air pump is equipped with a fibrous filter, replacing this filter regularly will greatly prolong pump life.
- The purchase of a supplementary battery air pump is highly recommended to prevent the loss of oxygenation during power outages.
- Air stones eventually become clogged as evidenced by reduced bubbling and should be replaced to prevent the loss of nitrifying bacteria and damage to the air pump. Soak new air stones in water for several hours before installing them in the aquarium.
- Air stones in protein skimmers should be replaced every two weeks.
Aquarium Glass:
- Clean the exterior glass with a non-toxic aquarium glass cleaner and paper towels. Spray the glass cleaner onto the paper towel rather than onto the glass itself to prevent over spray into the aquarium. Do not use glass cleaners that are NOT specifically designed for aquarium use (i.e. Windex) as this may harm your fish.
- Clean the interior glass with an algae scrubber pad. Ideally, do this just prior to changing the filter media or doing a partial water change so that dislodged algae will be removed from the aquarium when the cartridge is replaced. Algae magnet cleaners are also available which will minimize your hand contact with the water. Never use algae pads for any other purpose in your home.
- Glass canopies should be cleaned regularly to provide maximum penetration of light.
Aquarium Lighting:
- Fluorescent tubes and starters should be replaced every twelve months in freshwater aquariums to provide maximum visual quality and plant growth.
- Fluorescent tubes should be replaced every six to eight months in marine aquariums to provide the correct balance of full spectrum lighting. Nuisance microalgae is the result of negative color shifts in the spectrum of light in aged bulbs.
- VHO tubes should be changed every five to six months.
- Power compact lamps should be replaced every ten to twelve months.
- Metal halide bulbs should be replaced every ten to twelve months with 20,000K bulbs replaced every six months.
- Maintain adequate lighting. Recent research indicates that the intensity of the light is even more critical than the duration. A single full spectrum bulb may be adequate for a ten-gallon (or other twelve-inch aquarium) but taller tanks need a higher degree of luminance. Some modern reflectors or hoods have the capacity to hold two bulbs. If this is the choice you make, we strongly suggest that two entirely different types of bulbs be used: a full spectrum bulb in front so that your fish show to their best advantage and a bulb more advantageous to plant growth in the rear.
Artificial Plants, Rocks, and Other Ornamentation:
- Surface algae and dirt can be removed by soaking the item in a solution of unscented household bleach and water (one part bleach to five parts water). Rinse thoroughly and soak briefly in dechlorinator (sodium thiosulphate) before returning to the aquarium. DO NOT soak driftwood in bleach. Scrubbing with a soft bristle brush can clean the surface.
- Be very cautious about using decorations found in local streams, rivers, lakes, oceans, or on land. These may have come in contact with fertilizers, petroleum products, or other toxins. To be safe, use these type items to decorate your home, not your fish’s home.
- Some medications consist of permanent dye base solutions. Remove porous surface decorations while medicating.
Live Plants: (Stan Makowski; Jermack Cultivated Plants)
- “Trim bunch plants before planting. Remove the weight, trim as many leaves from the stem as is practical, then replace the weight in a spiral fashion, but not too tightly. Some plants will survive without this simple procedure, but more often the leaves under the weight rot over the first week or two, and this causes the stem to deteriorate at the base and the rest of the plant to surface. When 6 planting rooted plants, it is critical that they not be placed too deeply in the gravel. The top of the root structure should be visible. Once established, live plants should be pruned periodically.
- Remember to use fertilizer. Most liquid fertilizers, in addition to replacing needed trace elements and nutrients, actually aid in changing mulm into substances that are more easily absorbed by the plant’s roots. A good quality liquid fertilizer may be adequate for a beginner’s aquarium or even one of small dimensions. However, those wanting optimum results would be wise to also purchase one of the many products that apply fertilizer directly to the gravel. Test kits are now available to test the iron level in the water. If phosphate is present (Charlotte tap water: 1 ppm), the available iron will chemically combine with the phosphate forming a compound which is insoluble by the plants. An iron deficiency condition known as iron chlorosis may result. The plants turn yellow and the leaves and stems both become very brittle. Fertilizers containing iron supplements will correct this condition.
- Filtration. Avoid an undergravel filter if at all possible. For reasons not yet completely understood, undergravel filters appear to inhibit aquarium plants form absorbing certain vital nutrients. As a result, plants may become stunted and pale yellow in color, indicating that photosynthesis is somehow disrupted. If you already have an undergravel filter and do not want to remove it, consider leaning heavily on potted plants. Also to be avoided in heavily planted aquariums are devices, which would enrich the water with oxygen and/or cause carbon dioxide to escape. These include power filters whose return flow causes heavy surface turbulence and airstones. Trickle filters are also not recommended, as the filtered water contains almost no carbon dioxide.
Feeding:
DO NOT OVER FEED. Unless your fish are highly specialized feeders or have a very high metabolism (i.e. yellow tangs), feed your fish once daily and only what they will completely consume in 1 – 2 minutes time. To insure adequate nutrition, provide a varied diet and use vitamins on the food at least twice a week. Uneaten food should be removed from the aquarium if not eaten with 5 minutes. Contrary to many manufacturers’ claims, overfeeding will result in cloudy water, excessive algae growth and deteriorating water quality.
Conclusion:
Thank you for taking the time to read this handout. We trust that it will serve to answer most of your questions as they arise. Hopefully, it has not left you with reservations that successfully maintaining an aquarium is an arduous task. Nothing could be further from the truth. Primarily, it is a matter of common sense. Fish, and other aquatic inhabitants, cannot survive in polluted water. Take a few moments each day (feeding provides an excellent opportunity) to observe that everything in the aquarium is functioning properly. Evaluate the overall condition and appearance of the fish and other inhabitants. Remove any uneaten food material or other debris on the substrate and/or ornamentation and remove any water spotting on the glass or aquarium trim. If the fish appear to be behaving abnormally, make the appropriate tests to insure proper water quality and look closely to see if there are any visible signs of disease. Twice a month devote the small amount of time required to perform partial water changes and gravel vacuuming, service the filters as required, scrape algae from the glass and check water quality. The result will be a trouble free, long term successful aquatic experience. ENJOY
Warrant Acclimation and Returns
Our Product Return Policy
Fintastic offers a 30 Day Return Policy for all Dry Goods purchases as follows:
All custom orders, special orders, or items cut by a customer or to a customers specifications cannot be returned.
All special order layaway deposits are non refundable.
The product must be unused and in its original packaging.
The product must be able to be resold as new. Damaged packaging cannot be accepted.
All refunds only with a valid Sales Receipt. Cash and Debit Card purchases will be refunded in cash. Check refunds available in cash 2 weeks after purchase. Credit Card purchases will be refunded to the Credit Card used for the purchase.
A 50% Store Credit will be issued without a valid receipt for resalable products.
We cannot accept returns for any purchases of plants, corals, invertebrates and fish.
We reserve the right to offer a 30% Store Credit for live returns solely based on the discretion of Fintastic management.
All live return credits will be issued only after survival of a one week (7 day) quarantine period. Fintastic assumes no liability for lost animals during this time.
Our Customer Service Goals
♦ TO GREET ALL VISITORS TO OUR STORE WITH A WARM, FRIENDLY SMILE
♦ TO PROVIDE PROMPT SERVICE TO EVERY CUSTOMER
♦ TO OFFER THE BEST SELECTION A ND THE HIGHEST QUALITY PRODUCTS
♦ TO CON FIDEN TLY OFFER OPTIO NS, SOLUTION S, AN D K NOWLEDGE
♦ TO FOLLOW UP A ND FOLLOW THROUGH TO OUR COMMITMEN TS
♦ TO OPE NLY RECEIVE CUSTOMER CON CERN S A ND IDE NTIFY SATISFACTORY SOLUTION S
♦ TO MAI TAIN A POSITIVE ATTITUDE AN D APPEARA NCE
♦ TO OFFER E NCOURAGEME T TO ALL AQUATIC HOBBYISTS
Acclimation Guidelines
To minimize stress on your new arrivals and to ensure their long-term success, the acclimation procedure listed below must be followed for all fish, invertebrates and live corals. Please note that following this procedure is mandatory to qualify for our livestock warranty. Be sure to read this entire procedure – including the Im- portant Facts – before beginning the acclimation process.
Acclimation Procedure
1. Turn off aquarium lights.
2. Float the sealed bag in the aquarium for 15 minutes Never open the shipping bag at this time. This step allows the water in the shipping bag to adjust slowly to the temperature in the aquarium, while main- taining a high level of dissolved oxygen.
3. After floating the sealed shipping bag for 15 minutes, cut open the bag and roll the top edge of the bag down one inch to create an air pocket within the lip of the bag. This will enable the bag to float on the surface of the water For heavy pieces of live coral that will submerge the shipping bag, place the bag containing the coral in a plastic bowl or specimen container.
4. Add 1/2 cup of aquarium water to the shipping bag.
5. Repeat step 4 every four minutes until the shipping bag is full.
6. Lift the shipping bag from the aquarium and discard half the water from the bag.
7. Float the shipping bag in the aquarium again and proceed to add 1/2 cup of aquarium water to the shipping bag every four minutes until the bag is full.
8. Remove aquatic life from the shipping bag and release into the aquarium.
9. Remove the filled shipping bag from the aquarium and discard the water. Never release shipping water directly into the aquarium.
Important Facts
• Be patient – never rush the acclimation procedure. The total acclimation time for your new arri- val should take no longer than one hour.
• Always follow the acclimation procedure even if your new arrival appears to be dead. Some fish and invertebrates can appear as though they are dead when they arrive and will usually revive when the above procedure is followed correctly.
• Never place an air stone into the shipping bag when acclimating your new arrival. This will in- crease the pH of the shipping water too quickly and expose your new arrival to lethal ammonia.
• Keep aquarium lights off for at least four hours after the new arrival is introduced into the aquarium.
• Most invertebrates and marine plants are more sensitive than fish to salinity changes. It is imperative to acclimate invertebrates to a specific gravity of 1.023-1.025 or severe stress or trauma may result.
• Sponges, clams, scallops, and gorgonians should never be directly exposed to air. Follow the acclimation procedure, but instead of remov- ing the specimen out of the shipping bag, sub- merge the bag underwater in the aquarium and remove the marine life from the bag. Seal off the shipping bag underwater by twisting the opening, and remove it from the aquarium. Discard both the shipping bag and the enclosed water. A tiny amount of the diluted shipping water will escape into the aquarium. Don’t be alarmed; this will have no adverse affect on the tank inhabitants.
• In some instances, your new tank mate will be chased and harassed by one or all of your existing tank mates. Solution 1: A plastic spaghetti strainer (found at your local discount store) can be used to contain a tank bully within the aquar- ium for several hours until the new arrival adjusts to its surroundings. Just float the perforated plas- tic basket in the aquarium. Net the tank bully and place in the floating basket for approximately four hours while the new arrival adjusts to your aquar- ium. Never place the new arrival in this basket; the new specimen must get familiar with your aquarium. By placing the tank bully in a perfo- rated basket, you’ll reduce the stress on your newest tank mate. Solution 2: A tank divider can be purchased at Fintastic and cut down to the width of your aquarium. This divider may be used to section off a small portion of the aquarium to separate territorial or aggressive fish from the newest tank mate. After the new addition adjusts to the unfamiliar environment, the divider can be removed
Coral Information
Some live corals produce excess slime when shipped. After the acclimation procedure is followed, hold the coral by the rock or skele- tal base and shake the coral in the shipping bag before placing into the aquarium. To avoid damage, please remember never to touch the “fleshy” part of a live coral. Many species of coral will not open for several days after introduction into their new home. Please allow several days for the coral to adapt to the new conditions in the aquarium. You may need to move the coral within the tank for the first several weeks to determine its’ best location. Good polyp extension will indicate a suitable location.
Our Livestock Warranty
As a courtesy to our customers, FINTASTIC offers a replacement guarantee for all Freshwater and Saltwater fish purchases. All fish return claims must be accompanied by the dead fish, in its own bag or container of water, a separate sample of your tank water and the sales receipt.
Freshwater: We offer a 100% replacement on any fish that dies within 24 hours after purchase, providing that the customer’s water sample tests out within normal parameters. If the fish dies within 7 days after purchase, the fish will be replaced at 50% off the actual net retail price paid. Limit 1 replacement only. We do not offer a warranty on feeder fish.
Saltwater: We offer a 50% replacement on any fish that dies within the first three days after purchase, provided that the customer’s water sample tests out within normal parameters. We do not offer warranty on corals or invertebrates.
Shark eggs are subject to the same warranty as all fish. Limit 1 replacement only.
FINTASTIC will not be obligated to buy back or refund money on any fish under any circumstances nor can offer a warranty against aggression.
ONE MORE THING
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Turbinaria
Turbinaria
Class Anthozoa, Order Scleractinia, Family Dendrophylliidae, Genus Turbinaria
Common names: pagoda cup coral, turban coral, vase coral
Natural origin: Indo-Pacific
Sensitivity (Level 1 to 2): These corals are generally tolerant, forgiving and without much need for specialized care. Always avoid purchasing dyed corals.
Feeding: Turbinaria spp. have medium-sized polyps and good prey capture ability. They feed on a variety of foods including Cyclopeeze (micro crustaceans), mysis and brine shrimp and other meaty aquarium foods. When healthy, the polyps of many species extend and expand quite a bit. When fully expanded, the coral looks “bushy” with tentacles.
Lighting (Level 4 to 8): Turbinaria can adapt to a wide range of lighting conditions. As always, to prevent bleaching, be sure to acclimate to new lighting.
Water flow: These corals can be particularly vulnerable to sediment damage (especially when in the cup-shaped juvenile formation). Position the coral to minimize collection of debris and place in areas of moderate to high water flow.
Placement: If cup-shaped, place the coral such that the cup is on its side (rather than sitting “up-right”). Orienting the coral this way will help keep debris from getting trapped in the “mouth” of the cup. Lighting also determines the cupping of these corals. The higher the light levels the more closed the cup, the lower the light levels the flatter. Leave plenty of room for full polyp extension. They are not aggressive corals.
General: These corals feed during the day. Tentacles usually close up at night. It may take several days or weeks for the coral polyps to open up after being introduced into a new home or environment, or after being stressed.
Sensitivity:
Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.
Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.
Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.
Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.
Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists
Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.
Lighting Scale (approximations):
Level 0 – no light
…
Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting
…
Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting
…
Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting
Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)
Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)
…
Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)
Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.
It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.
Acclimation:
Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.
Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.
Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.
Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).
Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.
To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.
General “Disclaimer”
These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.
Trachyphylliidae
Trachyphylliidae
Class Anthozoa, Order Scleractinia, Family Trachyphylliidae
Common names: lobed brain coral, open brain coral
Natural origin: Indo-Pacific
Sensitivity (Level 2): These corals are generally tolerant, but need to be fed well.
Feeding: Trachyphyllidae have impressive prey capture ability. They will ready eat a variety of meaty aquarium foods. Be forewarned, they can even eat small aquarium fish!
Lighting (Level 4 to 7): These corals seem to prefer moderate lighting. They can adapt to more intense lighting if allowed to do so slowly over time. As with most all corals, sudden changes in lighting can cause bleaching.
Water flow: Moderate to stronger water flow is ideal.
Placement: These are very aggressive corals best placed in a sand or rubble bottom. Give them plenty of room. Sometimes tangs and hermit crabs will nip at and/or irritate the coral’s soft tissue. Keeping the tank well fed can help prevent competition for food.
General: Slow tissue recession can be a sign of starvation. Though these corals have impressive feeder tentacles, in captivity, it may take them some time to get “settled in.” If after several weeks you still do not observe an extension of feeder tentacles, you can try to encourage a feeding response with night-time target feeding. One hour after the lights go out, turn off circulation during feeding so that the food can fall onto the coral. Give the coral an hour or two to “grab hold” of the food, then turn the water flow back on. Do this daily (or every other day) until feeder tentacles extend regularly in anticipation of feeding.
Sensitivity:
Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.
Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.
Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.
Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.
Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists
Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.
Lighting Scale (approximations):
Level 0 – no light
…
Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting
…
Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting
…
Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting
Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)
Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)
…
Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)
Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.
It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.
Acclimation:
Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.
Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.
Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.
Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).
Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.
To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.
General “Disclaimer” These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.
Tips for Growing Aquarium Plants
Here are some tips for getting the best growth and appearance from your live freshwater aquarium plants:
• Don’t use gravel which is too coarse. We can help in pointing out the best choices for optimum plant growth. Depth of gravel should be a minimum of three and preferably four inches. Gravel color is irrelevant. The use of fluorite under the gravel is highly recommended.
• Maintain adequate lighting. Research indicates that the intensity of light is even more important than the duration. A typical color-enhancing bulb, such as a gro-lux, may be adequate for a ten gallon (or other 12- inch tall tank) but taller tanks need a higher degree of luminance. We strongly suggest two entirely different types of bulb be used. One choice would be a color-enhancing bulb in front to show your fish to their best advantage, and a bulb more advantageous to plant growth in the rear.
• Remember to use fertilizer. The old adage that fish droppings will fertilize the plants in an aquarium is partially true. Modern filtering techniques now often render the aquarium too sterile! Most liquid fertilizers, in addition to replacing needed trace elements and minerals, actually aid in changing mulm (a pretty word for fish droppings) into substances which are more easily absorbed by the plants’ roots. A good quality liquid fertilizer may be adequate for a beginner’s aquarium or even one of small dimensions. However, those wanting optimum results, especially for swordplants, anubias varieties, cryptocorynes, and any plants that send runners to reproduce, would be wise to purchase one of the many products available that apply fertilizer directly to the gravel.
• Prune your plants periodically. It is generally advisable to place some plants toward the rear of the tank in order to hide heaters, siphons and the like. Next, rocks or driftwood will hide the less-attractive lower plant sections as well as offer contrast and a sense of depth. Midrange plants are then placed with another level of rocks or other decorations. Lastly, small foreground plants in the very front complete the descending motif and further hide the bottoms of plants immediately to their rear. Most of this is common sense, but this initial plan can easily go astray if some pruning isn’t done as the plants mature.
• Avoid an undergravel filter if at all possible. There are instances where we’ve heard of successful plant growth when using an undergravel filter, particularly one with slow water turnover. But in general, it’s a bad idea. If you must have one, or already have one and don’t want to remove it, consider leaning heavily on potted or plastic plants.
• Be careful of medications. Some medications that are not directly harmful to fish can be lethal to living plants. Dyes such as malachite green and methelene blue should not be used. In addition, many antibiotics can be equally dangerous to plants. There are medications available which are less harmful. Carefully reading labels is always a necessity before introducing any foreign substance that can affect the balance of the aquarium’s system and should be followed with plants in mind as well as fish!
The N itrification Cycle
The above diagram is a graphic portrayal of the biological filter (nitrification) cycle. The actual toxicity levels and the number of days required for the completion of the cycle depends upon the aquarium size, the species of animals, size, number of fish therein, the amount of dissolved oxygen in the water, and the quality/efficiency of the biological filtration. The cycle does not begin until fish are added into the aquarium or pond!
The nitrification cycle is the process that transforms new nonfunctioning biological filter beds into biologically established filters.
• Initially the aquarium should be lightly populated with relatively inexpensive, hardy fish. We do not recommend feeder goldfish for this purpose as they are unlikely to survive the cycle. Being particularly sensitive to ammonia, scavengers, algae eaters and scaleless species should not be included among the first inhabitants.
• Fish digestion, respiration and decomposition of uneaten food begins to produce ammonia (NH3) Once ammonia becomes detectable, no other fish should be added to the aquarium. Do not perform partial water changes or add ammonia binders unless you are experiencing multiple fish deaths. Doing so will reduce ammonia toxicity but will prolong the cycle.
• A species of nitrifying bacteria, nitrosomonas, begins to convert the toxic ammonia into equally toxic nitrite (NO2).
• Another nitrifying bacteria, nitrobacter, then converts the toxic nitrite into relatively harmless nitrate (NO3). This completes the cycle, allowing you to add additional fish and commence regular, periodic water changes and gravel vacuuming.
Transportation and Acclimation
Transportation
Once you have left Fintastic, your animal purchase responsibilities begin immediately. Your purchase should remain in the merchandise bag and not be taken out until you arrive in front of your aquarium. The animals should travel placed in a seat in your vehicle, not on the floorboard, secured such that a rapid stop will not allow the fish to fall off the seat. Vibration and temperature control are problematic when the animals are on the floor of the vehicle. You must ensure the temperature of the vehicle does not move from the 70- 80 degree range. You also would want to have the fish floating in your aquarium within 4 hours .
Acclimation
To minimize stress on your new arrivals and to ensure their long-term success, the acclimation procedure listed below must be followed for all fish, invertebrates and live corals. Please note that following this procedure is mandatory to qualify for our guarantees. Be sure to read this entire procedure – including the Important Facts – before beginning the acclimation process.
Quarantining Aquatic Life
Though not a requirement of our Acclimation Procedure, we highly recommend that all aquatic life, including algae, be quarantined in a separate aquarium for a period of two to four weeks. Quarantining new arrivals virtually eliminates the possibility of introducing diseases and parasites to your tank and allows new tank mates to regain optimal health before its final transition to your aquarium.
Acclimation Procedure
1. Turn off aquarium lights.
2. Dim the lights in the room where the shipping bag will be opened. Never open the bag in bright light – severe stress or trauma may result from sudden exposure to bright light.
3. Float the sealed bag in the aquarium for 15 minutes (Fig. A). Never open the shipping bag at this time. This step allows the water in the shipping bag to adjust slowly to the temperature in the aquarium, while maintaining a high level of dissolved oxygen.
4. After floating the sealed shipping bag for 15 minutes, cut open the bag just under the rubber band (Fig. B) and roll the top edge of the bag down one inch to create an air pocket within the lip of the bag.
This will enable the bag to float on the surface of the water (Fig. C). For heavy pieces of live coral that will submerge the shipping bag, place the bag containing the coral in a plastic bowl or specimen container.
5. Add 1/2 cup (small bags) or 1 cup (8″ or greater bags) of aquarium water to the shipping bag (Fig. D).
6. Repeat step 5 every five minutes until the shipping bag is full.
7. Lift the shipping bag from the aquarium and discard half the water from the bag (Fig. E).
8. Float the shipping bag in the aquarium again and proceed to add 1/2 cup (small bags) or 1 cup (8″ or greater bags) of aquarium water to the shipping bag every five minutes until the bag is full.
9. Net aquatic life from the shipping bag and release into the aquarium (Fig. F).
10. Remove the filled shipping bag from the aquarium and discard the water. Never release shipping water directly into the aquarium.
Important Information
• Be patient – never rush the acclimation procedure. The total acclimation time for your new arrival should take no longer than one hour.
• Always follow the acclimation procedure even if your new arrival appears to be dead. Some fish and invertebrates can appear as though they are dead when they arrive and will usually revive when the above procedure is followed correctly.
• Never place an air stone into the shipping bag when acclimating your new arrival. This will increase the pH of the shipping water too quickly and expose your new arrival to lethal ammonia.
• Keep aquarium lights off for at least four hours after the new arrival is introduced into the aquarium or preferably over night.
• Most invertebrates and marine plants are more sensitive than fish to salinity changes. It is imperative to acclimate invertebrates to a specific gravity of 1.023-1.025 or severe stress or trauma may result.
• Sponges, clams, scallops, and gorgonians should never be directly exposed to air. Follow the acclimation procedure, but instead of netting the specimen out of the shipping bag, drain the majority of the water out of the bag allowing the bag to collapse on the animal yet still not allowing any air to touch the animal, submerge the bag underwater in the aquarium and remove the marine life from the bag. Seal off the shipping bag underwater by twisting the opening, and remove it from the aquarium. Discard both the shipping bag and the enclosed water. A tiny amount of the diluted shipping water will escape into the aquarium. Don’t be alarmed; this will have no adverse affect on the tank inhabitants.
• In some instances, your new tank mate will be chased and harassed by one or all of your existing tank mates.
Solution 1 : A plastic spaghetti strainer (found at your local discount store) can be used to contain a tank bully within the aquarium for several hours until the new arrival adjusts to its surroundings. Justfloat the perforated plastic basket in the aquarium. Net the tank bully and place in the floating basket for approximately four hours or overnight if the size of the animal is not too large, while the new arrival adjusts to your aquarium. Never place the new arrival in this basket; the new specimen must get familiar with your aquarium. By placing the tank bully in a perforated basket, you’ll reduce the stress on your newest tank mate.
Solution 2 : A perforated plastic lighting grid (egg crate) can be purchased from Fintastic and cut it down to the width of your aquarium. This grid may be used to section off a small portion of the aquarium to separate territorial or aggressive fish from the newest tank mate. After the new addition adjusts to the unfamiliar environment, the divider can be removed.
• Some live corals produce excess slime when shipped. After the acclimation procedure is followed, hold the coral by the rock or skeletal base and shake the coral in the shipping bag before placing into the aquarium. To avoid damage, please remember never to touch the “fleshy” part of a live coral. Many species of coral will not open for several days after introduction into their new home. Please allow several days for the coral to adapt to the new conditions in the aquarium. Correct water flow over the new specimen will aid in its extending its polyps.
If a Loss Occurs
We go to great lengths to ensure that the aquarium life we pull for you is in the best condition possible. Unfortunately, there are rare instances when aquatic life does not survive during transit or within the guarantee period despite every effort to ensure its well-being.
Sun Coral
Sun Coral (azooxanthellate)
Class Anthozoa, Subclass Hexacorallia, Order Scleractinia, Family Dendrophylliidae, Genus Tubastraea
Common names: yellow or orange sun coral, orange or yellow sun polyp, black sun coral
Natural origin: Indo-Pacific
Sensitivity (Level 4): Azooxanthellate sun coral have demanding feeding requirements that can make them difficult to care for. They are prone to tissue recession which may be a sign of starvation.
Feeding: These corals need frequent and careful target feeding. Some aquarists use an inverted bowl (or other container) placed over the coral during target feeding to help the coral capture enough food. Cyclopeeze (micro crustaceans) and baby brine shrimp are some good food choices. Variety is also helpful.
Lighting (Level 0 to 3): The azooxanthellate sun corals don’t need light. Low intensity and/or indirect light is best. Too much light may encourage nuisance algae to grow over the surface of coral.
Water flow: Moderate to strong water flow is important.
Placement: These are not aggressive corals. They are usually placed at the bottom of an aquarium and away from aggressive, stinging corals.
General: These corals have unfortunately high mortality rates in captivity. That said, frequent and successful feeding can greatly improve chances of survival.
Sensitivity:
Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.
Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.
Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.
Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.
Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists.
Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.
Lighting Scale (approximations):
Level 0 – no light
…
Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting
…
Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting
…
Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting
Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)
Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)
…
Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)
Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.
It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.
Acclimation:
Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.
Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.
Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.
Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).
Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.
To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.
General “Disclaimer”
These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.