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Spring is an exciting time of the year, when trees begin to dress again, everywhere you look flowers are blooming, and best of all, your pond is waking up! It’s time to get outdoors and start shaping things up. This is your opportunity to check the reinforcement of the bank, and while you’re at it, reposition or repair those loose stones around the edge of the pond. Clean the drain if necessary and remove leaves from the netting (which may still be in place) or rotting leaves and muck off the bottom if there are any. This is also a great time to do an equipment check and get everything operating properly before the bio load gets too heavy. Make sure the electrical wiring and pump are in working order. When everything checks out you can start the filter or get the water circulating through the stream bed. Reconnect the submersible pump for the fountain or waterfall.

In March the first primulas and early bulbs bloom in the bog garden. Pond plants that weren’t cut back in the fall such as rushes, reeds, cattails and grasses should be trimmed before the start to show new shoots. If they’ve gotten ahead of you, be careful not to trim the new growth. If you’ve stored water lilies inside over the winter you can plant them again by placing them in the shallow water zone, and as soon as the leaves start to rise up above the water’s surface, move them into deeper water, bit by bit, until you have them where you want them.

April is usually the start of the water garden year. New water-lily pads have grown to the surface and the frogs are mating. If your fish have overwintered in the pond you can begin feeding them when they start coming to the surface – just a little every couple of days will do. This will normally occur when the water temperature rises above 54°F. Disease resistance is at its lowest ebb at this time of year and a mixed diet will help. Provide a few chopped up worms and daphnia as well as regular floating food. Any fish that have overwintered inside should not be moved outside until the pond water warms up to within 3-4°F of their aquarium water. Release them into the shallow water and let them seek out the deeper, colder water on their own.

Do not panic if your pond turns pea-soup green! This is because the algae is taking advantage of the nitrogen fertilizer that has accumulated in the pond over the winter and has started growing earlier than the plants. As soon as your plants get a good start a balance will be restored. A healthy pond will return to normal in a week or two.

Seriatopora (Bird’s Nest)

Class Anthozoa, Order Scleractinia, Family Pocilloporidae, Genus Seriatopora

Common names: bird’s nest coral

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 2 to 3): These corals are generally less tolerant of unstable conditions. Sensitivity depends heavily on particular species, place of origin, and if caught wild or aquacultured.

Feeding: A small polyped coral with poor prey capture ability, they need food of very small particle size. In a well fed tank with a variety of food, additional feeding might not be necessary.

Lighting (Level 6 to 10): Though quite adaptable, Seriatopora spp. tend to thrive and grow faster under more intense lighting conditions. The ideal lighting for any particular coral will depend heavily on the species and the depth and clarity of the water where it was collected or cultured. As with any zooxanthellate coral, coloration can change in response to changing lighting conditions. As always, be sure to acclimate properly.

Water flow: These corals need strong water flow for effective feeding, good health and growth.

Placement: To compete with other corals for space, these corals have short stinging sweeper tentacles and produce toxic substances in their immediate area to intimidate neighbors. Though they can hold their own territory and outcompete peaceful corals, they may still lose a battle with a more aggressive coral.

General: To increase chances of success, do not attempt to keep these corals in tanks less than a year old. Steady tank parameters and calcium levels of at least 420 ppm are important for health and growth.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Reef tank parasites such as cryptocarion (Ich) and Amyloodinum (Velvet disease) are ubiquitous and almost impossible to completely eradicate when you are first establishing your tank. Traditional treatments would be fatal to most of the invertebrates you may be trying to raise.

Although there are several methods for controlling these parasites, and fierce differences of opinion as to which method is the best, the most effective way to protect your fish is to introduce it to your tank in the most stress-free way possible.

Carol Bowerin, in her 1983 book, stated that the effects of Ich and Velvet disease are rarely found in the wild. This leads us to believe that a healthy, nonstressed fish is better able to fend off diseases. Avoid water change shock as much as possible. Taking care that the salinity and pH of your tank, and that of the

store you make your purchase in, are the same is very helpful. It’s wise to develop a relationship with your stock source. Our knowledgeable and reliable staff can make all the difference to you insuring your purchase will live long and prosper.

Porites

Class Anthozoa, Order Scleractinia, Family Poritidae, Genus Porites

Common names: boulder coral, Christmas tree worm rock

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 3 to 4): These corals can be quite unforgiving and intolerant. They are not impossible to keep but demand well established aquariums and experienced care.

Feeding: A small polyped coral, they have poor prey capture ability and feed only on very small particle food. In a well fed tank with a variety of food, additional feeding might not be necessary.

Lighting (Level 7 to 10): Though adaptable to some degree, these corals usually need more intense lighting conditions. The ideal lighting for any particular coral will depend on the species and/or the depth and clarity of the water where it was collected or cultured. As with any zooxanthellate coral, coloration can change in response to changing lighting conditions. As always, sudden changes in lighting conditions can result in bleaching. Be sure to acclimate properly.

Water flow: Strong, turbulent water flow is important for effective feeding, good health and to prevent sediment damage.

Placement: Not a particularly aggressive coral in captivity, they can easily be overgrown by more aggressive tank mates.

General: In the wild, Porites corals grow to be quite massive, some being several thousand years old. To increase chances of survival, keep only in well established aquariums that are at least a year old. Steady tank parameters and calcium levels of at least 420 ppm will promote coral health and growth.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water. Step

3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Pocillopora (and Stylophora)

Class Anthozoa, Order Scleractinia, Family Pocilloporidae, Genera Pocillopora and Stylophora

Common names: cauliflower coral

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 3 to 4): These corals can be quite sensitive and intolerant of unstable conditions. Though not impossible to keep, they require experienced care and well established aquariums.

Feeding: Small polyp corals, they have poor prey capture ability and need food of very small particle size. In a well fed tank with a variety of food, additional feeding might not be necessary.

Lighting (Level 6 to 10): Though adaptable, Pocillopora spp. tend to grow faster and fair better under more intense lighting. The ideal lighting for any particular coral will depend on the species and the depth and clarity of the water where it was collected or cultured. As with any zooxanthellate coral, coloration can change in response to changing lighting conditions. And as with all corals, sudden changes in lighting conditions can result in bleaching. Be sure to acclimate properly.

Water flow: Like Acropora spp. and Montipora spp., these corals need strong water flow for effective feeding, health and growth.

Placement: These are not aggressive corals and can be overgrown or out-competed by faster growing or more aggressive neighbors.

General: Some species are confused for branching Montipora. Fortunately, care requirements are mostly similar for both corals. Steady tank parameters and calcium levels of at least 420 ppt will promote coral health and growth. Pocillopora spp. can grow relatively fast under favorable conditions. A brooding coral, Pocillopora can sexually reproduce in captivity.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Pipe Organ Coral

Class Anthozoa, Order Alcyonacea, Family Tubiporidae, Genus Tubipora

Common names: pipe organ coral, organpipe coral

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 3 to 4): These corals can be difficult to keep because they are difficult to feed. They tend to fair better in established aquariums with well populated sand beds. The manner of collection may be a factor in the difficulty of maintaining these corals in aquariums. A coral that is well established on a rock base will usually fare well while a coral that has been collected by being sliced from the top of a colony in the wild will not.

Feeding: The coral’s feathery polyp tentacles help it catch food suspended in water. They appreciate food of smaller particle size, but shouldn’t be target. Oyster eggs and other such small particle foods are recommended.

Lighting (Level 7 to 10): Though adaptable, these corals prefer more intense lighting. Ideal lighting will depend on the depth and clarity of the water at which the coral was collected or cultured. As always, please acclimate to new lighting conditions.

Water flow: Moderate to strong water flow is important for effective feeding and to prevent sediment damage.

Placement: Pipe organ corals are not aggressive. Provide enough space for the coral polyps to extend without inhibition. Polyps can reach up to a foot in height when fully grown and fully extended.

General: The polyps of these corals retract into red, pipelike structures held together with calciferous (calcium carbonate containing) horizontal plates. This often leads new aquarists to mistake them for stony corals when they are actually classified as soft corals.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1:

Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2:

Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3:

Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Pectiniidae

Class Anthozoa, Order Scleractinia, Family Pectiniidae, Genera Echinophyllia, Oxypora, Mycedium and Pectinia

Common Names: chalice coral

Natural Origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 2 to 3): Though not exactly beginner corals, most are tolerant and forgiving. Please note that they have delicate skeletons that break easily. Handle with care.

Feeding: Most species feed at night with long feeding tentacles. They generally have impressive prey capture ability and can feed on a variety of finely chopped sea foods, mysis and brine shrimp.

Lighting (Level 3 to 6): Though adaptable, moderate lighting is preferred. The ideal lighting for any particular coral will depend on the species and the depth and clarity of the water where it was collected or cultured. As with any zooxanthellate coral, coloration can change in response to changing lighting conditions. As always, sudden changes in lighting conditions can result in bleaching. Be sure to acclimate properly.

Water flow: Relatively gentle, but constant flow is ideal. Be sure that debris and sediment do not collect on the coral.

Placement: These can be aggressive corals. Please place with care, leaving several inches of free space around each specimen. They should also be placed at a slant to help keep the coral free of debris.

General: Members of this family are copious mucus producers and are probably not good candidates for smaller tanks less than 15 gallons. In small volumes, excessive coral mucus can cause fowling of the water and threaten the health of the whole tank.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Pavona (Cactus Coral)

Class Anthozoa, Subclass Hexacorallia, Order Scleractinia, Family Agariciidae

Common names: cactus coral, lettuce coral, potato chip coral

Natural Origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 2): Though scarce in the aquarium trade, these corals can be relatively forgiving and tolerant in healthy aquariums.

Feeding: These are very small polyped corals. They feed on very fine particle foods (no need for targeted feeding).

Lighting (Level 6 to 10): These corals can adapt to a range of lighting intensities over time but generally prefer more intense lighting. As for all corals, changing lighting conditions can sometimes result in color changes in the coral. Note that when one of these corals changes color, that doesn’t necessarily mean the coral is unhealthy. The coral may simply be adapting to your lighting conditions. This is true even of aesthetically unfavorable color changes. As always, take care to acclimate to new lighting conditions.

Water flow: Moderate to strong water flow is important for feeding and to prevent sediment damage.

Placement: These are peaceful corals. Place safely away from aggressive corals. Be mindful of fast growing encrusting corals that will compete for space.

General: These corals have thin, fragile skeletons and interesting growth patterns that often look like clusters of petals. Contrary to normal wild behavior, in captivity, many species extend their polyps during the day. Though not especially fast growing, their resistance to disease upon breaking makes them good corals for captive propagation by fragmentation.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Montipora

Class Anthozoa, Subclass Hexacorallia, Order Scleractinia, Family Acroporidae, Genus Montipora

Common names: velvet coral

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 2): Though not exactly beginner corals, they’re usually considerably more tolerant than their Acropora cousins.

Feeding: These corals have nearly invisible polyps and rather poor prey capture ability. They fed on food of very small particle size. In a well fed tank with a variety of food, additional feeding is usually not necessary.

Lighting (Level 6 to 10): Most Montipora species can adapt to a considerably wide range of light intensities but tend to prefer and grow faster under stronger lighting. Like all photosynthetic corals, changing lighting conditions can sometimes result in color changes in the coral. Note that when one of these corals changes color, that doesn’t necessarily mean the coral is unhealthy. The coral may simply be adapting to your lighting conditions. This is true even of aesthetically unfavorable color changes. As always, failure to acclimate to new lighting can cause bleaching.

Water flow: Plating species can be especially susceptible to sediment damage. Both branching and plating types need strong water flow.

Placement: These are very peaceful corals. Keep safely away from aggressive corals and be careful of fast-growing encrusting corals that will compete for space.

General: Different Montipora species can be encrusting, plating or branching. All three growth forms can grow very fast when kept well. Steady calcium levels of approximately 420 ppm are best for coral health and growth.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Lobophyllia/Symphyllia

Class Anthozoa, Order Scleractinia, Family Mussidea, Genera Lobophyllia and Symphyllia

Common names: open brain coral, lobed brain coral

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 1 to 2): Sensitivity depends somewhat on species, but most are quite tolerant and forgiving when healthy and well fed.

Feeding: These corals have strong prey capture ability. They typically have considerably larger polyp mouths and can take larger food than can the Blastomussa/Micromussa/Acanthastrea species of the same family. They should be fed at night since this is often the only time they will extend their feeder tentacles.

Lighting (Level 5 to 8): They can adapt to a range of lighting conditions but tend to prefer more intense light. As always, to prevent bleaching, be careful to properly acclimate the coral to new lighting conditions.

Water flow: Moderate water flow is preferred.

Placement: These corals are not aggressive. Even so, they can expand quite a bit and so need plenty of room. Please place them safely away from aggressive corals.

General: Feeding tentacles are usually relatively small and only come out at night. Care should be taken to make sure the coral gets enough food. Slow tissue recession could be a sign of starvation. Regular night-time target feeding can help.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations): Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

One of the areas in which technological development has really made a huge difference to the health and longevity of reef tank setups is lighting. Until a few years ago, the aspiring reefkeeper was faced with a choice of either expensive metal halide lamps (needing supplemental blue lighting from fluorescent tubes), a combination of fluorescent tubes (that even the experts couldn’t agree on), or mercury vapor lights that were completely unsuitable in terms of color spectrum.

Those days were over with the arrival of specialized fluorescent tubes designed for marine systems. Subsequently, quite a range of such tubes has come on the market, considerably simplifying things for those of use with reef aquaria. Metal halide lighting has also evolved. Bulbs are now available which deliver the correct spectrum for invertebrates without the need for supplementary fluorescent tubes. Prices have also become more affordable.

Marine aquariums need light for a number of reasons. In a fish-only system the primary reason for lighting the tank is to view the fish. If lighting of sufficient intensity is provided, macroalgae or even filamentous algae can be stimulated to grow, with the benefit of improving water quality. Algal growth also stimulates the establishment of populations of small crustaceans, providing both a direct (the algae itself) and indirect source of food for the fish.

In a reef tank, lighting is much more important because most of the corals and invertebrates depend upon light as a primary source of food. Within their tissues, these animals harbor populations of single celled algae, known as zooxanthellae, which photosynthesize to produce nutrients then used by the host.

In nature, reef inhabitants reside a different depths, therefore requiring different intensity of light to thrive. Red light penetrates water poorly, whereas blue, violet and ultraviolet light can reach much greater depths. Consequently, in order to choose the correct spectrum lighting it’s important to know where on the reef your pets came from. If you have any questions, please come in or give us a call.

Leather Corals

Class Anthozoa, Order Alcyonacea, Family Alcyoniidae, Genera Sinularia, Sacrophyton, Lobophytum, Alcyonium, Cladiella, etc.

Common names: leather coral, colt coral, toadstool/mushroom coral, tree coral, etc.

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific Sensitivity (Level 1): These corals are usually exceptionally tolerant and forgiving. They’re also easy to fragment and propagate. Beware of dyed corals (pink leather corals have almost certainly been dyed).

Feeding: These corals have extensive feeder tentacles. They feed on very small particle food. Some are pickier eaters than others, so variety is helpful.

Lighting (Level 3 to 8): Though adaptable, most prefer more intense lighting conditions. If kept under less light, be sure to feed well. Water flow: To avoid sediment damage, moderate to strong water flow is preferred.

Placement: It’s important to note that some species are highly toxic to stony corals (especially larger polyp stony corals in the genera Lobophyllia, Symphyllia and Trachyphyllia). Since specific species identification of leather corals can be quite difficult (sometimes even to identify a genus), these corals should be added with reservation to any tank with stony corals. Also consider that many leather corals are relatively fast growing and can get quite large. However, this isn’t usually so much of a concern since they can be literally cut down when they get too big.

General: Leathers are great corals for beginner aquarists or anyone looking to keep more low maintenance corals. Note that when stressed or introduced into a new tank, they may close up and not open up again for several days or even weeks. This might also happen right before the coral sheds. Stronger water flow will decrease the “shut down” time before shedding. This periodic shedding of the outer layer of cells is a normal occurrence and is thought to help keep algae and/or other corals from growing over them. It’s important to keep the toxicity issue in mind. Someone hoping to keep larger polyped stony corals at a later time should think carefully about adding leathers to their tanks, especially those in the genus Sacrophyton which are known to be particularly toxic.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists.

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

The family Cichlidae can be broken down into two basic groups: New World cichlids and Old World cichlids.  That is, cichlids endemic to the Americas and Africa, respectively.  These two groups can be broken down further, as follows (with their general pH requirements in parentheses):

 

New World Cichlids

1. South America (ph 6.5-7.5)

-Pikes and peacock bass

-Oscars

-Geophagus species

-Apistogrammas

-Discus, angels, uaru, festivum

2. Central America (ph 7.0-8.5)

 

Old World Cichlids

1. West African river species (ph 6.5-7.5)

-Jewels

-Kribs

-Tilapia

2. Lake Tanganyika (ph 8.0-9.0)

-Lamprologus

-Tropheus

-Frontosa

3. Lake Malawi (ph 7.5-8.5)

-Mbuna

-Peacocks

-Nimbochromis/haplochromis

 

 

Determining aquarium compatibility between cichlids can be tricky and never guaranteed, but below is a summary of what generally holds true.  The most important thing to remember about cichlids is that the vast majority of cichlids are at least moderately aggressive even when not breeding.  Once two cichlids have paired up and begun their mating ritual, their aggressiveness increases dramatically.

 

The South American cichlids are a very diverse group.  The giants are the Oscars, pikes and peacock basses.  These fish are typically not aggressive, but all have clear piscivorous tendencies; they will quickly eat any tank mate small enough to fit into their mouths.  Despite this, these fish are not highly aggressive, and will not fair well with more aggressive tank mates.  Their food should have a high concentration of meat protein.

 

Most of the other S. American cichlids can more or less be considered semi-aggressive community fish.  Although some geophagus species get large and aggressive, most are not excessively territorial and can be kept with smaller, more docile fish.  The jurupari is a good example of this.  The apistogrammas, discus, angels and uaru are also relatively non-aggressive and can be kept like the geophagus.  With the exception of uaru, they are also good candidates for the planted aquarium.

 

Only a couple of S. American species Fintastic carries should be considered too aggressive to be kept with the above fish.  These are green terrors and caquetaia kraussi.  Both are usually mean and nasty, and would probably do best housed with cichlids from C. America.  With the exception of the true predators, the S. American cichlids are omnivores, and should be offered a wide variety of foods, including a fair bit of vegetable matter.

 

Central American cichlids are, as a rule, highly territorial and predatory.  Although some stay around six inches when full grown, such as the convict, salvinii and Jack Dempsey, most get closer to ten to fourteen inches.  These are not suitable for smaller aquariums except when juvenile, and they typically grow very quickly when kept properly.  It is usually impossible to house more than a single adult C. American cichlid in an aquarium unless the tank is very large.  Being omnivores, these cichlids are easy to feed.

 

Lake Malawi cichlids are very diverse and should not be considered compatible across the board.  Fintastic sells more mbuna than any other type of Malawi cichlid.  These are the smaller(4-6”), algae eating fish of the lake.  As such, they should be offered lots of algae-based foods.  It is necessary to have a can of OSI Spirulina flake, HBH Spirulina pellet or Ocean Nutrition Cichlid Vegi flake to an mbuna sale.  Examples of mbuna we sell are the auratus, kennyi, zebras, etc.  Although often very aggressive, most mbuna can be successfully kept in communities, even in tanks as small as thirty gallons.  In fact, it is best to slightly overcrowd them in order to distribute aggression among as many individuals as possible.  Obviously, what this means for the aquarist is an increase in size and frequency of water changes.  It is important to note that, although they are technically mbuna, yellow labs are best not mixed with other mbuna.  They are not as rowdy, and usually get harassed/damaged.  If you insist on mixing them in with more aggressive fish, try to give the labs a size advantage.

 

The haplochromines are a larger, predatory Malawi fish.  Some of the haps Fintastic sell’s are the venustus, compressiceps, livingstoni, etc.  Most of these fish reach eight to ten inches and need lots of swimming space.  They are best fed an omnivore diet, with a leaning toward meat protein.  Do not house these fish with mbuna unless they are clearly larger, and in a tank of at least 75 gallons.  Peacocks, probably the most spectacular and expensive Malawi cichlids and should not be housed with mbuna under any conditions.  They are simply not nearly aggressive enough.  The only exception to this would be the yellow labs, for the reason given above.  They typically grow no larger than four to five inches, and can be housed in tanks as small as thirty gallons.  They are micropredators/omnivores, and will thrive on a mixture of frozen and dry foods.

 

With the exception of the frontosa, Lake Tanganyikan cichlids generally stay under six inches, are not insanely territorial, and do well in communities of other Tanganyikans.  Such a community should be housed in at least a thirty gallon, but preferably larger.  Do not mix these fish with any Malawi cichlids other than yellow labs and peacocks.  Feed Tanganyikans a mixture of frozen and dry foods.  Do note that tropheus species should absolutely not be fed bloodworms or brine shrimp.

 

West African cichlids are very similar to New World cichlids in most regards.  Their water, feeding and housing requirements are very similar to those of the S. American cichlids, while their temperament typically is a little rougher.  Depending on the species in question, these guys can usually be mixed in with cichlids from South and Central America with no problem.

 

As a final note, we would like to point out that, like marine reef fish, cichlids from the large African rift lakes are intolerant of large swings in water parameters and degradation in water quality.  These fish need  constant high pH and alkaline water conditions (buffers are a must).  The South and Central American and African river cichlids, on the other hand, are accustomed to seasonal changes in water chemistry and can be difficult to upset.

 

Gorgonians (Sea Fans and Sea Rods)

Class Anthozoa, Subclass Octocorallia, Order Gorgonacea

Common names: sea fans, sea rods

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 3 to 5): Adaptability depends greatly on genera and species. Some (mostly the zooxanthellate species) can adapt to captive life with diligent, experienced care. Others (such the azooxanthellate species) will not survive even under the care of the most experienced aquarists.

Feeding: Azooxanthellate sea fans can be very difficult to feed. They need large amounts of small particle food. That said, success is thought possible when keeping them in healthy, exceptionally well fed tanks. The zooxanthellate species are easier to feed but still need variety of small particle food.

Lighting (Level 0, 3, or 7): Little or no light is needed for the azooxanthellate species. Dim lighting is needed for Subergorgia spp., Diodogorgia nudulifera, Swiftia exserta and Leptogorgia miniate from the Caribbean. More intense lighting is needed for zooxanthellate corals, Erythropodium spp. (encrusting gorgonians), Eunicea spp., Muricea spp., Pseudotergorgia spp., and Plexaura flexuosa.

Water flow: Strong water flow is needed for feeding and to keep the coral free of algal growth. Ideally, the flow should be perpendicular to the plane of the coral, reversing (alternating) and laminar (as opposed to turbulant, swirling flow).

Placement: Place these corals a safe distance from aggressive corals and fast growing soft corals that might overgrow them. Note that some gorgonians can grow quite large (up to a meter in height).

General: The azooxanthellate members of these corals are difficult to keep and certainly not recommended for beginners. Typically, the red or orange, and many yellow colored gorgonians (with white or clear polyps) are azooxanthellate and should be avoided. Some species (the zooxanthellate species) are not quite as difficult to keep. Unfortunately, it’s not always easy to identify a species, much less know if that species is one that might do well in an aquarium or not.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists.

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Goniopora & Alveopora

Class Anthozoa, Order Scleractinia, Family Poritidae, Genera Goniopora and Alveopora

Common names: flowerpot coral, daisy coral, ball coral

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 4): Until very recently, it was thought that Goniopora were impossible to keep alive in captivity. Thanks to recent research, new food products, and valiant efforts by some aquarists, these corals can now be kept in home aquariums with diligent and committed care. If you choose one of these corals, please be prepared to meet their demanding needs. Alveopora species tend to be slightly easier to care for.

Feeding: These corals have very specific and extremely demanding feeding requirements. Please visit www.goniopora.org for more detailed information.

Lighting (Level 3 to 6): Lighting requirements are moderate. Careful acclimation to any new conditions is especially important for these unforgiving corals.

Water flow: Moderate to strong water flow is preferred.

Placement: These corals have long sweeping polyps that should be allowed to freely extend without hitting rocks or other corals that might damage them.

General: As stated, these corals are exceptionally demanding. It is highly recommended that any aquarist considering one do extensive research and reading on their care. If in doubt about having the time, patience and resources required to meet this corals needs, please choose a different coral.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists.

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.