Do you have a pond that your fish will appreciate? Several factors influence whether a pond is habitable by fish, so before your stock your new pond or choose a few new finned friends at your water gardening store, take a few minutes to assess your fish’s dwelling space.

Size Matters
It all starts with the size of your pond. You need to make sure that it is large enough to support fish and their growth. Pond fish generally need 10 gallons of water for every inch of their length, and you have to be ready for them to grow larger, so be careful not to overstock, no matter how tempting this may be! Some pond experts go so far as to recommend only ½ inch of fish per 10 gallons of water as a maximum stocking density.

On occasion, you may encounter ponds crowded with 2 or even 3 inches of fish per 10 gallons of water and the fish seem to be fine. However, the density and ecological strain of this loading turn these ponds into fragile systems. The pH tends to sag, the fish tend to grow more slowly, and disease can become a common occurrence.

You won’t be able to salvage sick fish in a pond that’s overcrowded. Eventually, Mother Nature will pick off your favorite fish to achieve her ideal stocking density based on the system the fish are in, and then the remainder will recover as if by magical intervention. So reduce the number of fish if your pond is overstocked before Mother Nature handles this crucial step for you.

Good Morning, Sunshine
Ponds that have some sunlight are also beneficial to fish due to the valuable vitamins that are produced. Sunlight also helps the plants in your pond grow, thereby reducing nitrates in the water. Unfortunately, you can’t just up and move your pond so if you have a shaded pond, simply add shade-loving plants to help balance the water.

Two Feet
When it comes to pond depth, koi aren’t very picky. Just be sure that the pond is deep enough (generally about 2 to 2 ½ feet) to give the fish a chance to get out of the way of predators. This depth also provides ample space for over-wintering fish in northern climes.

A Balancing Act
The quality of your pond water is critical to fish health and you want to make sure your pond is balanced. The proper mix of fish, plants, filtration, circulation, and rocks and gravel all provide an important role in your pond’s ecosystem. Work with Mother Nature, not against her, and you’ll find you spend more time enjoying your pond and less time maintaining it.

This week’s “Tip of the Week” comes from a question I received from a customer with a Zoanthid-eating Nudibranch problem.

Zoanthid-eating Nudibranchs are what are known as aeolid Nudibranchs, a type of Nudibranch named for the Greek god of the wind, Aeolis. All aeolids eat cnidarians and are frequently named by aquarists based on their preferred prey (e.g. Zoanthid-eating Nudibranchs). Because they feed on ornamental cnidarians, we are generally intent on keeping them out of our aquaria, and that’s what I want to discuss here.

At Blue Zoo, we dip all incoming zoanthids (we dip all corals actually) in a malachite green solution with the primary goal of eliminating as many unwanted pests as possible. The dip works well with all of the soft bodied animals like aeolid Nudibranchs and bristle worms. It will kill some pest starfish as well as some pest snails but it really does a number on their eggs which is really the point of the dip. So the first tip I can offer to you is to ask the retailer if they prophylactically dip their zoanthids. If they don’t, you may want to consider dipping yourself as part of the acclimatization procedure.

I like to recommend a ten minute dip in RO/DI freshwater with Lugol’s Solution. Lugol’s Solution provides a strong source of free iodine and iodide and is frequently used as a dip for stony and soft or leather corals. Keep in mind that Lugol’s Solution is a very concentrated source of iodine—use 40 drops per gallon of water in a separate bucket for your dip. After the dip, quarantine the Zoanthid colony for at least one week. Because the dip will not kill the eggs, it is best to dip the colony every four days or so during quarantine.

Luckily, many individual aeolids are often ineffective at establishing breeding populations that can lead to infestation, so if you do observe a Zoanthid-eating Nudibranch on your Zoanthid colony, simply removing it with a pair of tweezers can be effective. Unfortunately, many Zoanthid-eating Nudibranchs are quite small and can easily proliferate in the aquarium environment making eradication quite difficult.

In these situations, I often recommend a biological approach. In other words, I suggest that aquarists introduce animals that, while consistent with their overall stocking plan, will target and (hopefully) eradicate pests. Using Peppermint Shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni) to eradicate Aiptasia is a good example of a biological approach to pest control. When it comes to Zoanthid-eating Nudibranchs, There are several fishes that will target them. They include wrasses from the genus Halichoeres (e.g. the Yellow Coris Wrasse, H. chrysus) and Butterfly fishes from the genus Chaetodon (e.g. the Klein’s Butterfly fish, Chaetodon kleinii), but unfortunately, neither can be fully endorsed as reef compatible.

An effective treatment can be to use a product such as Salifert Flatworm Exit. This product is quite safe to both fishes and invertebrates and can be used in a reef tank. To use Flatworm Exit, turn off your UV sterilizer and ozone, and remove activated carbon from the system (keep your protein skimmer turned on). Add one drop of Flatworm Exit for every gallon of system water it in a high flow area of the tank (a cap full is good for 90 gallons). Flatworm Exit will NOT kill Zoanthid-eating Nudibranch eggs, so you should repeat the treatment again in one week to kill all of the newly hatched adults.

 

See also this URL – http://www.coralrx.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=11&Itemid=23

Dear Kyle,

Thank you so much for not only taking the initiative to acquire our new tank decorations, but for always being so attentive in keeping our aquariums looking their best. You’re the best and our residents have never been as excited as they are now when the enjoy the fish. They wanted to thank you with the banner in the picture. Again, thanks for being awesome and we appreciate all you do for us.

Warm Regards,
Dean Quick, Purcell Residents, and the Recreation Therapy / Activities Department

1. Titan trigger 75% off!

2. Saltwater angels 35% off!
3. Nano frags 25 bucks each, buy 4 or more get one free!
4. All snails buy one get one free!
5. Real reef live rock 8 bucks per pound!
6. All hermits buy one get one free!
7. Select SPS coral 35% off!
8. All brain corals 25% off!
9. All groupers 25% off!
10. All tangs 35% off!
11. Bluespot jaw fish only $119.99!

Thomas Brown interviews the owner of Fintastic – The Aquarium Superstore and explores its fresh water section.

 

https://youtu.be/Eoa_iHY0E4k

Tangs

Arguably the most recognized reef fish in the hobby, tangs are great fish for a large reef. Most tangs reach sizes of 10”+, making them showpieces for large aquariums. Tangs are extremely active fish, spending the bulk of their time cruising around the tank and grazing on rockwork. Most tangs are also great fish for helping control problem algae, as there are very few algaes they won’t eat.

Sohal Tang
Achilles Tang
Sailfin Tang
Blue Tang
Clown Tang (can be a bit bossy)
Kole Tang
Orange Shoulder Tang
Purple Tang
Atlantic Tang
Chevron Tang
Lemon Peel Mimic Tang
Powder Brown Tang
Yellow Tang
Scopas Tang

Angelfish

Another large fish, angelfish are highly sought after in aquariums. Most angelfish are prone to nipping at corals and clams and therefore don’t make good reef dwellers, however there are a few that tend to be reef safe.

Regal Angelfish
Emperor/Imperator Angelfish
Coral Beauty Angelfish (about 1/10 will nip corals)
Fireball Angelfish
Flameback Angelfish
Cherub Angelfish (the smallest of the angels, only getting to be about 2”)
Flame Angel (this fish is an enigma… some are model reef citizens, some eat every coral they can find, and some are perfect for a while and then turn into terrors)
Lamarck’s Angelfish
Watanabei Angelfish
Spotbreast Angelfish
Bellus Angelfish

Wrasses

Wrasses are some of the most colorful, active fish you can have in a reef tank. Most wrasses will eat common reef pests, such as flatworms, bristleworms, pyramid snails and other parasites, making them not only beautiful but extremely beneficial to aquariums. While the bulk of wrasses are reef safe with respect to corals, not all wrasses make good reef inhabitants as they may eat clean-up-crew members like snails and crabs. When picking wrasses for a reef it is generally recommended to stick with the Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus) or Sand Wrasse (Halichoeres) genus.

Melanurus (Hoeven’s) Wrasse
Christmas Wrasse
Scott’s Fairy Wrasse
Carpenter’s Fairy Wrasse
McCosker’s Fairy Wrasse
Flame Wrasse
Leboute’s Wrasse
Lineatus Wrasse
Yellow Coris Wrasse
Radiant Wrasse
Exquisite Wrasse
Yellow-Fin Fairy Wrasse

Rabbitfish

Another excellent choice for algae control, rabbitfish are perfect for large aquariums. Generally speaking only one rabbitfish should be kept per tank, but large tanks can sometimes house two or three without much trouble.

Scribbled Rabbitfish
Foxface Rabbitfish
Two-Toned Rabbitfish
Two Bar Spinefoot
Gold Spotted Spinefoot
Magnificent Rabbitfish

Triggerfish

One of the more unique fish out there, triggers are an interesting choice for reef tanks. Most will eat coral, however there is one genus that will usually leave coral alone. As such, trigger options are limited, but owning one definitely sets your tank apart.

Blue Throat Trigger
Sargassum Trigger
Crosshatch Trigger (very rare, commands a high price when available)

Damsels and Chromis

Small, attractive fish that sometimes form schools. Damsels tend to have quite an aggressive nature, however most chromis are more peaceful. Both are extremely hardy and active and perfectly reef safe additions.

Blue/Green Chromis (somewhat likely to school)
Vanderbilt Chromis (very likely to school)
Electric Blue Reef Chromis (not very likely to school, does best in small groups or as a single fish)
Lemon Damsels (the only damsel I would consider in a reef as they are passive, however they stay small)
Black Bar Chromis (will kill other chromis, but fine on its own)

Anthias

By far the best fish for schooling, anthias are very fun to watch in a large aquarium. Most anthias require very specialized diets, however, and are not ideal candidates for most tanks unless you take the time to customize a feeding regiment just for them. Anthias also require several feedings a day because of their high activity levels. There are two species of anthias that adapt well to pellets/flakes and single feedings though.

Bartlett’s Anthias
Lyretail Anthias

Butterfly Fish

Most butterflies will absolutely devour coral; however there are a few that are planktivores and usually leave corals alone.

Pyramid (Zoster’s) Butterfly (somewhat hard to find as availability is seasonal, these are often considered 100% reef safe)
Longnose Butterfly (95% are reef safe)
Long Longnose Butterly (the longer nose cousin of the longnose, these are usually 99.9999999% reef safe)
Copperband Butterfly (85% are reef safe, though they have a reputation for being fine for years then turning on coral)

Gobies and Blennies

I’ve never come across a goby or blenny that isn’t reef safe. Most range from 1” to 8” when full grown. They can be shy, hiding in caves and rockwork, but some are more active than others.

Fang Blennies (the most active blenny family)
Algae/Seaweed Blennies (more cryptic, but great for algae control)
Watchmen Gobies (hide a lot, but very neat fish)
Shrimp Gobies (you will likely never see them, but they are the most uniquely patterened fish in the group)

Oddities

The fish that you sometimes find in reef tanks.

Lionfish (great with coral, will eat any small fish that fits in its giant mouth)
Groupers and Snappers (won’t touch coral but will devour any fish, snail, crab, shrimp or clam that fits in its mouth)
Boxfish and Cowfish (perfectly reef safe but release a toxin if stressed that can kill coral and other fish)
Jawfish (reef safe but dig elaborate tunnels that can cause rockwork to collapse)
Basslets (Hide 90% of the time, but very attractive fish when they’re out)
Psuedochromis (Generally small, colorful fish that are absolute terrors to everything else in the tank. Will pester other fish until they die)

 

These are larvatus butterflies also chowing down on plankton.

A very rare gold flake angel is eating hikari plankton in a tank at Fintastic.

With busy summer schedules and families taking their last vacation before school starts, you may have missed seeing your favorite Charlotte fish store and owner, Greg Sowers, featured in The Charlotte Observer.

But have no fear, we have it here! CharlotteObserver.com/Fintastic

We welcome buyers and browsers, near and far, to stop by Fintastic in Arysley Town Shopping Center to experience the wide variety of beautiful exotic fish and accessories with fantastic customer service.

Calcium is used by all salt-water organisms. Some animals use much more than others do; in fact, to some animals, calcium is one of the major components of the diet. Therefore certain types of salt water systems require more attention to the calcium levels. In all salt-water aquariums, calcium must added to replenish the amount consumed by organisms or removed by protein skimming. Calcium monitoring is especially important in reef tanks where a large number of hard or “stony” corals, clams or invertebrates are present. This is due to the fact that these animals use calcium to build their skeletons. In addition, coraline algae also consume calcium. This form of algae is present in all salt water systems, so calcium must be monitored regardless of the type of ecosystem.

Below, we will try to describe the various methods available for monitoring your calcium levels. Of course this is not an exhaustive list, but it is merely a guide for the most common methods for the novice. Talk to a Fintastic employee to determine what is best for you.

Calcium exists in the ocean as the ion Ca2+. This ion is very soluble in water; meaning lots of calcium can be dissolved. For example, in the oceans of the coral reefs, calcium exists at about 400 PPM (mg/Liter of seawater).

When stony corals grow, they consume calcium by the following reaction.

Ca2+ + CO3 -2 → CaCO3

As you can see, the calcium is consumed during this reaction. If calcium is not added to your system, the reaction will slow down, as the calcium becomes depleted. (Notice the other ingredient in the reaction is CO3 -2 . This is the carbonate ion, and we will discuss this compound in the alkalinity lesson).

You can replace the calcium with four methods.

1) Water changes. Obviously, this is the least efficient method for controlling calcium, but it does work. In a thriving reef aquarium, calcium must be monitored daily; therefore; weekly water changes will not be sufficient for this type of tank. For a “soft coral” or “fish only” tank, water changes should be sufficient to maintain calcium.

2) Another method is the addition of Calcium chloride solution. These are the calcium solutions advertised by Kent Marine, SeaChem, etc. Calcium chloride is very soluble in water; therefore, it is very easy to add vast amounts of calcium quickly. However, the disadvantage is that adding calcium chloride also adds chloride. If too much chloride is added, the balance of the total system chloride level will be thrown off which can first appear as an abnormally high salinity reading via a hydrometer when the actual salinity may be low.

3) The third and best manual method is “Kalkwasser” addition. Although very effective, Kalkwasser demands attention to safety, and the mixture can be dangerous to you and your tank. Kalkwasser is simply Ca (OH) 2 dissolved in water (or commonly known as “lime”). Kalkwasser must be prepared before use (within 24 hours) and allowed to settle so that the clear “Lime” water is only added to the aquarium. Kalkwasser must be added very slowly, usually with a drip system or electronic doser. If the solution is added to quickly, then the pH of the system will be sharply increased. A sharp rise in pH will wipe out an entire tank. Speak with a Fintastic employee before engaging in the use of Kalkwasser. Note that mixed Kalkwasser will react with the oxygen in the air we breath and render it useless if allowed to sit out in the open. You must only mix the amount you will use within the 24 hour period to maintain the highest concentration of calcium in the Kalkwasser.

4) Calcium Reactors – This is absolutely the best way to add calcium to your aquarium. The calcium reactor utilizes CO2 to drop the pH of the water circulating within the reactor to 6.5 – 6.2 pH. At this pH, the calcium carbonate material in the reactor will gradually dissolve into the circulating water in the reactor. This will literally raise the carbonate hardness of the water in the reactor to 35-45 DKH. The reactor affluent is then dripped back into the aquarium giving a continual supply of calcium and alkalinity plus trace elements to the system. The single most negative to a calcium reactor is the initial investment into the system. A basic system begins at $850 with the more advanced systems reaching $2,000.

Advance Happy New Year to everyone! We have great news to all Fintastic fanatics! We will be operating under normal hours on Sunday, Jan 1. We will be closing early tomorrow at 4PM. See you there!

Pond Plants Are Here!!