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Category: Fresh Water and Pond

Beauty Is Root Deep

14912696039_94c3a01bf2_mAfter having a conversation recently with another pond owner about plant issues, I was reminded of my painful experience with a particular species last year. I’m referring to the very popular, and very prolific, bamboo. I agree that it is an attractive plant and blends extremely well with a Koi water garden, but unfortunately it can be as destructive as it is beautiful. Several hundred species of bamboo have been imported into this country over the years by the horticultural industry for use as ornamental plants. And 24 of these are in the genus Phyllostachys, which is the most invasive and common of these plants. Although attractive from the ground up, from below they develop a dense, far-reaching and aggressive root system that is almost impossible to remove if you wish to get rid of it.

Two years ago we purchased dwarf bamboo thinking that dwarf meant small, manageable plants. Oh, were we wrong. By last year, the plants had begun to spread profusely despite our trimming. The worst part came when we realized that the reason our pond was continuously losing water was because the bamboo roots had spread under our entire stream leading to the pond. Its sharp root tips had poked hundreds of holes in the liner. Several days of removing the entire stream, rock liner, dirt and all, meant getting every possible root we could find. Any roots left, even the smallest, and you have bamboo back in no time. Again, I do like the look of bamboo, but if you decide you want to incorporate it into your water garden, I would strongly suggest keeping it confined to a container.

By Keith R. Heberling, Water Garden Expert

Easing Into the Cooler Months

 

8445435782_35da132d89_mFor many of our pondkeepers, October means cooler temperatures and a change in landscape. The colors of fall bring beauty to your pond, but there is more to consider as you enjoy the crisp autumn air. Last month we talked about completing your “Big Fall Cleanup.” Once that is done, you should begin making plans to protect your pond and fish over the winter.

Caring for fish

In most parts of the United States, fish can be left in the pond during the winter, provided the depth of the pond is adequate (18 inches minimum or deeper in harsher climate zones) with little or no water circulation. Fish will gather in this deepest area of the pond, where the water temperature remains more stable, and go into a state of hibernation during the winter months. Note that some types of fish, such as fancy goldfish, bubble eyes and lion heads, are sensitive to cold weather and should be brought indoors. It’s a good idea to submerge a few pots so that your fish and other water life, such as frogs, may take shelter in the winter.

Feeding pond fish

As winter approaches, you should monitor pond water temperatures daily. As discussed last month, when the pond’s water temperature is between 39°F and 50°F, a wheat-germ-based diet is best for your pond fish. And don’t forget, when the water temperature falls below 39°F, you should stop feeding the fish altogether. Some may worry about not feeding their fish, but you can rest assured that your fish will naturally rely on stored energy reserves built up during the summer to sustain them throughout the winter months.

Don’t forget your plants

Many aquatic plants (with the exception of tropical lilies and water hyacinths) can be left in the pond through the winter. Trim back all dead foliage, and then submerge the plants in the bottom or deeper section of the pond to prevent the plants from freezing. Hardy, water garden plants will come back year after year. Consider bringing tropical lilies and water hyacinths indoors for the colder months.

Pond equipment

Use a de-icer to keep an area of the pond ice-free so pond inhabitants can breathe. De-icers help fish survive by allowing harmful gases to escape through a small ice-free opening in your pond’s frozen surface. There are energy-conserving de-icers designed specifically for ponds that are inexpensive to run. You can also melt a hole daily using a pan of warm water. Do not break the ice to make a hole, since this can harm fish and other aquatic inhabitants.

Winter Pond Keeping

26780803375_72b820d5c0_zYes, you read correctly. You can “tend” to your pond in the winter! When winter rolls around, many frustrated water gardeners can’t wait to begin working again on their water features, many of which have had little attention since November. Yet, instead of feeling restless, you can take advantage of winter to rest the pond, since aquatic (or even semi-aquatic) flora and fauna have expended much energy in the past year. During the cold weather, slowing biological processes provide protection against potential cold weather damage. Plus, the break from pond keeping will give you time to prepare for spring.

Since the pond is resting and should be left relatively undisturbed, now’s the perfect time to turn your thoughts to planning changes for the coming season. When the weather improves and water temperatures rise, how about building a new water feature and attaching it by a slow babbling stream to your current pond? Or, extending what you have at present?

With a little time, effort and attention to detail, nearly all ponds can be enhanced, extended or dramatically changed without too much trouble, and more important, without too much additional cost.

Ponds built with a flexible liner provide the most opportunities for change, since an area can be excavated to extend the pond; and, a new piece of liner may be attached to the old one without removing and rebuilding the whole pond. Rigid concrete-lined ponds offer more challenges when changes are being made; but, as long as new concrete is well-keyed, the ability to make alterations will remain. Both of these types of pond are perfect for extensions since there are few limits to their design in terms of shape and complexity, the lining material is as flexible as your imagination.

Slightly more trouble comes when extending the pre-formed fiberglass pond, but with the right knowledge (or the right contacts) and equipment, new fiberglass sections can be added to old, extending and dramatically improving the look of the water feature. Check with your local pond retailer.

Transitioning Your Fish To A Fall Diet

As water temperatures begin to dip, your pond fish will have to adjust to their surroundings. It is important to start changing fish diets to accommodate the changes these cold-blooded creatures will undergo. We recommend following a Seasonal Feeding Cycle. When temperatures are between 39°F and 50°F, a wheat-germ-based diet is best for your pond fish.

High-quality wheat-germ foods are formed from easily digestible plant ingredients, which enhance digestion and reduce the time it takes for the nutrients to be absorbed. Compared with an animal-protein-based food, a wheat-germ-based food will spend 25% less time in the intestine. This is beneficial since in low temperatures, metabolism in fish is greatly diminished. Since Koi and goldfish do not have true stomachs, a food with wheat-germ is the optimal diet to transition fish in and out of the season safely and healthily.

The Importance of Regular Water Testing

For a new pond, water should be tested once or twice a week for the first month. After the first month, once a month is acceptable, and always test after doing a partial water change. Regular testing ensures optimum water quality and also helps you to monitor the health of your pond and make necessary water adjustments.

If you suspect you have a problem with your water or fish, we always recommend testing the water first.

All tests provide valuable information about the health of your pond, and some come in easy-to-use test strips. Some all-in-one strips test for general hardness (GH), nitrite (NO2), nitrate (NO3), pH and Alkalinity (KH).

The Big Fall Clean-up

Preparing your pond for the fall and winter months is as essential as opening the pond in the spring. We call this the Big Fall Clean-up. The best time to clean the pond is before temperatures fall below 50°F, while fish are still active and will not sustain injury during the cleaning.

Cleaning the pond…

It is good to scoop out as much of the leaves and sludge as possible before winter. You may want to pump some of the water out of the pond to expose the planting shelves around the pond periphery. This will make it easier to hand-remove leaves that have adhered themselves to the pond edges and shelves. Using a hose nozzle, blast off the accumulated debris and sludge around the pond shelves and edges, and then remove remaining debris with a net or pond vacuum. When replacing the water, be sure to treat the chlorine and chloramines with a water treatment product.

Next, follow our Fall Prep Checklist:

– Cut back dead or dying aquatic plant foliage during the fall.
– Purchase a wheat-germ-based pond food developed especially for a fall diet.
– Disconnect the pump, filter and UV clarifier before water freezes. (Make sure that no water is left inside the device. Ice can damage the equipment.)
– Store UV clarifier indoors for protection.
– Store filters indoors (if manufacturer’s directions suggest).
– Sink a few clay pots or weighted-down, clean buckets into the pond to provide refuge (in place of the protective plant cover that will disappear). Frogs who have taken up residence in your garden will also benefit from a place to hibernate.
– Some breeds of fish are especially sensitive to the cold, like Fancy Goldfish. Bring them indoors.
– Purchase or have the pond de-icer ready for installation before your pond surface freezes completely.
– Sit back and enjoy the changes your pond will undergo.

Pond Plants

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Pond Plants Are Here!!

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