Basic Aquarium Parameters
Ammonia ( H3)
The presence of ammonia in aquarium water is the #1 killer of fish. The primary sources of ammonia are the decaying of organic material (primarily uneaten food) and excreted waste from the fishes’ gills.
An ammonia level as low as .5 part per million (ppm) creates stress upon fish compromising the natural immune system. It has been demonstrated with laboratory experiments involving koi (and thus, we assume, equally true with other fish species) that an ammonia level of 2 ppm causes the natural immune system of the fish to cease functioning. The fish does not have the strength to cope with both the ammonia related stress and disease prevention. As the elevated ammonia level presents the more immediate possibility of death, all of the fishes’ energy must be devoted to combating that threat.
The presence of ammonia any time after the nitrification cycle has completed itself is the fault of the hobbyist and must be corrected. Its reoccurrence is precipitated by (but not limited to):
• Inadequate and/or poorly maintained biological filtration.
• Overfeeding.
• Overcrowding.
• Not performing periodic water changes and gravel vacuuming.
• Allowing dead inhabitants to decay.
Ammonia problems can only be corrected by:
• Doing partial water changes and adding ammonia-digesting bacteria (Bio-Booster) until the level present approaches zero;
• By improving your individual hobbyist habits and maintenance skills.
Temporary methods of reducing ammonia levels in order of preference include:
• Suspending and/or reducing feeding.
• Dosing with Bio-Booster
• Introducing an ammonia binder into the aquarium (freshwater or pond only).
pH
In simple terms, pH is a way of indicating whether a volume of water is acid, alkaline, or neutral. pH is measured on a scale from 1.0 to 14.0, with 7.0 being neutral, below 7.0 acidic and above 7.0 alkaline. The pH required for aquatic life lies between 5.5 and 8.5, with a natural environmental variation of only a few fractions of a pH unit. Individual species will have varying demands as far as pH, and ignorance of the requirements of each species can cause the death of the animal. Always check tapwater or premixed saltwater pH before adding water to the aquarium.
pH impacts fish in two ways. First, if the pH is too low, a condition called acidosis can result. Symptoms are anorexia followed by the promotion of excess slime, isolation and resting on the bottom. Finally, visible hemorrhaging in the fins and death will result. Acidosis is rapidly corrected once the pH is brought up to a suitable range. Too high a pH can produce alkalosis symptomized by excess slime and gasping at the surface. Losses can be major and alkalosis is hard to reverse once it occurs.
A notable relationship exists between pH and ammonia in that pH contributes to the toxicity of ammonia. At higher pH values, ammonia is more toxic. Below pH 7.2 most ammonia is ionized to ammonium which is far less toxic. This has relevance if you are considering raising the pH of a system with detectable ammonia (be careful with water changes when this is occurring). The use of appropriate substrates, particularly in brackish, marine and African cichlid aquaria, will serve to stabilize the pH at the proper level
Alkalinity
Known by various other names such as “KH” and “carbonate hardness”, alkalinity, or pH stability, is the measure of the buffering capacity of the water, its ability to maintain a constant pH over and extended period of time. Buffering compounds, water changes and aragonite substrates serve to maintain a proper level of alkalinity, thus stabilizing pH.
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