Category: General Aquaria

Aquarium Maintenance Checklist: Daily

 

§ Visual Inspection of Aquarium Equipment Spend a few minutes each day verifying that your pumps are working properly, that your heater and chiller are fully functional and that your other equipment—calcium reactor, protein skimmer, Ultraviolet Sterilizer, media reactors, Ozonizer—are operating as intended. Perhaps you’re already checking on your lights but it’s a good idea to check on all your hardware, like an auto top-off, once each day. I find the best time to perform the visual inspection of equipment is while I’m feeding my fish and corals.§ Visual Inspection of Aquarium Livestock Look closely at each of your fish for signs of disease (any salt grain looking spots, sores, missing scales, bleeding, etc.) and aggressive wounds (again missing scales caused from another inhabitant that may need to be removed). Scan each coral to see if it is healthy and that there are no “pests” present (red flatworms, red bugs, acro-eating flatworms and harmful Nudibranchs, for example). During feeding while your livestock is out/open is the best time to perform the visual inspection. § Monitor Aquarium Temperature Check tank temperature daily to make sure it is within acceptable parameters.
Monitor Aquarium pH Using a PH controller or monitor really simplifies this chore since all you’ll need to do is check your pH reading vs. doing a traditional water test. Aquatronica, Neptune, etc. manufactures a great line of affordable pH monitors/controllers that we’ve tested and recommend, but there are plenty of others available that are just as high quality, easy to setup and use. Top Off Evaporated Water If you do not use an auto top-off system for your aquarium, you should top off on an often basis to replace evaporated water. This helps keep your aquarium salinity at a stable level. Dose Additives/Supplements Some additives and supplements are intended for daily use. Make sure you maintain a steady dosing regimen to avoid swings in key parameters within your aquarium. Check that all pumps and filters are operating at least once a day. Check that the temperature is correct in the tank at least once a day. Check that all lights are working at least once a day. Check all electrical connections and cords at least once a week.
Aquarium Maintenance Checklist: Weekly

 

§ Water Tests Test important water parameters at least once each week. This includes but is not limited to salinity, calcium, alkalinity, nitrates, phosphates and magnesium. Master or multi-test kits are inexpensive and generally include tests for the parameters most important to keep an eye on.§ Water Change Not everyone is on the weekly water change schedule, but it’s a good rule of thumb to change your water each week or every other week.  Use any high-quality siphon or ask our staff members which one they prefer while performing water changes in the store. For more effective crevice cleaning, use a turkey baster or narrow stream power head (like Cobalt’s Maxi Jet 1200) to blow out any trapped detritus that has accumulated in your rockwork. Then use your siphon to remove it from the tank during your water change. § Clean Protein Skimmer Collection Cup To ensure your protein skimmer is running its best, be sure to drain the collection cup once per week. Of course, every system is different. You may need to clean your cup a little more or less often depending on your aquarium and skimmer.  The skimmer neck should never need cleaning and if accumulations of skimmate occur in the neck or body of the skimmer, then readjust your skimmer level higher so that this does not occur.

 

§ Clean/Scrub Algae from Tank Interior Algae grows quickly in a reef aquarium due to the high lighting requirements. Using a magnetic algae scraper once per week will keep your tank walls algae-free. Most magnetic algae scrapers can be kept inside your aquarium which is not only convenient but also means you never have to get your hands wet while cleaning. If you have a glass aquarium and are dealing with some really stubborn algae growth, try Magfloat’s scraper attachment.If you prefer getting your hands wet, there are certainly alternatives to magnetic algae scrapers. Hand-held algae pads are easy to work with. One of my personal favorites is the Python Algae Mitt. Kent Marine has a popular line of blade-style algae scrapers called Proscrapers that effectively cut through all different types of algae and are available in various sizes and styles. TIP: I use Marineland’s Hang-On Tank Magnum 250 Canister Filter to catch algae that has been scraped loose or a small diameter vinyl tube.  The included micron cartridge catches algae so you can easily remove it from the tank. The cartridges are reusable and include instructions for cleaning. They are also great for catching the detritus blown off live rock. They can be used on tanks of all sizes to help maintain pristine water quality.  Additionally, the Cobalt hang-on maintenance filter works exceptionally well or even us a small diameter vinyl tube to a sewer or bucket. § Wipe Down Tank Exterior Using glass or acrylic polishes and/or wipes makes wiping down your tank exterior a simple chore that will only take a minute or two to complete. Polishes also help prevent fingerprints and water spots from forming on the exterior of your aquarium.  Never use Windex or any chemical based product as this can kill your aquarium. Clean Filter Socks/Filter Pads Filter socks and pads can become clogged rather quickly. Detritus and leftover food trapped in a filter sock or pad will eventually lower water quality. Most filter socks are reusable and can be cleaned using a mild bleach solution.  Never use soap.  Rinse thoroughly using a powerful stream of water to loosen trapped detritus. Allow the sock to dry before reuse. Stock several filter socks so you can rotate them out without having any downtime.  Clean other filter media regularly, or replace as necessary. For power filters and corner filters, the media and water flow should be checked every couple of weeks. For other external filters, check the water flow weekly, but you can probably check the media monthly. Of course, if the filter manufacturer recommends checking more often, follow their instructions.TIP: Don’t forget to rinse new filter socks before use. There is a residual chemical left on the socks from the manufacturing process that, while harmless to the tank, can cause excessive foaming/bubbling within the aquarium and make your protein skimmer foam over. § Check Auto Top-Off Reservoir Verify the water level in your auto top-off reservoir is adequate. You do not want to allow the auto top-off pump to run dry. There are also ATO’s (Automatic Top Off units) that will protect you pump by shutting off when the reservoir water level drops too low.  You may adjust the frequency of this duty depending on the size of your reservoir and time of year (evaporation rates vary throughout the year). Checking the reservoir weekly is a good place to start. Aquarium Maintenance Checklist: 1-2 Months

 

§ Clean Pumps and Powerheads I have several pumps performing various jobs for my aquarium system. To keep things simple, I’ll clean a few pumps one month and then clean the remainder the following month. To remove coralline algae from aquarium pumps/powerheads I soak them in an Equipment Cleaner and use a brush kit to clean the impeller and housing. Don’t forget to clean the pumps being used with skimmers, chillers and reactors. Keeping your pumps and powerheads clean will make them last and perform like new.§ Change Carbon and/or Phosphate Media Carbon and phosphate media should be changed about once per month when using a very high quality media. Using a media reactor (like Two Little Fishies Phosban Reactor, Vertex media reactor, MRC media reactor) for carbon or phosphate media (GFO – Granulated Feric Oxide) not only makes changing out the media easier, it maximizes the potential of the media itself by preventing the water from bypassing it.

§ Water Change Perhaps we’re not all weekly water changers. But the longest a reef aquarium should go without a water change is one month.  I prefer a 10-15% water change every other week or a 25% water change monthly.  This assumes very high quality filtration.  Your test kits will let you know if this is adequate.§ Clean and Calibrate Probes (pH in particular) Use a soft-bristle toothbrush to clean probes. Gently brush the tip of the probe to get rid of anything that has built-up or accumulated on it. Soaking in white vinegar can also be acceptable.  Recalibrate the probe afterward to ensure it is still providing accurate readings. Aquarium Maintenance Checklist: 6-12 Months

 

§ Clean Return Pump The impeller on your return pump will undoubtedly accumulate some slime or calcium build-up during a 6-12 month stretch that will reduce its efficiency. Get that pump in like-new condition by taking it apart every 6-12 months and cleaning the gunk out. This will extend the life of the pump and enable it to push the maximum amount of water it was intended to.  You can use vinegar to soak the parts, but sometimes you will need to use a commercial soaking solution to achieve “like new condition”.§ Replace Aquarium Light Bulbs Depending on the type of bulbs you are running over your reef, it might be time to replace your bulbs. If you are not sure how frequently to change your aquarium light bulbs, this is a very general guideline: 6 months for any T-12 VHO bulb 9 months for mogul socket halide 9 months for T-5 HO bulbs 12 months for HQI halide LED is manufacturer specific, so either follow their guidelines or no longer than 30,000 hours if unknown or 50,000 period. Calcium Reactor Maintenance It may be time to top off or replace your calcium reactor media. You should also check the level of CO2 in your CO2 tank. Better yet, keep an extra CO2 tank full to prevent downtime and rush trips out to get the tank refilled.  Never let the media in the reactor get below 1/3 of the original level.  When it has dropped to this level, throw away the remaining media due to its softness and replace with new.  The media will get soft once it has been subjected to low pH for over 9 months.  Always us a blend of Carib Sea’s Course ARM and a magnesium rock like Brightwell’s Magnesium. All other water pumps Clean the impeller assembly on any water pump at least once a year, and make sure to oil external water pumps as necessary based on the manufacturer’s instructions.

§ Replace RO or RO/DI Filter Media Most reverse osmosis equipment manufacturers recommend replacing the sediment, carbon and DI cartridges every 6 months depending on individual use. Keep a journal to log your replacement schedule and/or use a TDS meter to determine when it’s time to make a change to the DI and/or RO membrane. Your RO membrane will last about two years; with the addition of a flush valve it may last three or four.§ Replace Monitor Controller Probes Probes to monitor pH, ORP, Salinity, etc. generally last 12-18 months. If your probes become difficult to calibrate or go out of calibration quickly, it’s time to replace them.

 

Aquatic Nutrition – Fish and Coral

 

Over the last 5 years, the aquarium hobby has seen great strides made in feeds and nutritional supplements for both fish and corals.  This has enabled us to keep a greater variety of delicate species, keep fish healthier and longer, captive breed many species including some saltwater fish and feed plants and coral to achieve unparalleled growth.  All in all, this has made the hobby easier for all hobbyists.

 

Fish Foods

The staple generic flake food has now morphed into an array of specific species’ flake, pellet and frozen foods as with treats now for your fish.  For many years, the hobby put prime importance on water quality and just fed their fish whatever flake food they could find.  The aquaculture industry has put significant Research & Development into understanding the important aspects of fish foods that has now trickled into the aquarium hobby.  We have found that nutrition is just as important as water quality in the maintenance of these animals and is primarily important when the hobbyist is breading fish.  A variety of foods from each category – flake, pellet, frozen and treats – should also be given to the community tank to achieve the best health, coloration and stability of the inhabitants.

 

Flake Food

Flake food has been in the hobby practically since the hobby’s inception.  Flake food has changed from being primarily fish meal and other generic ingredients to having many other types of ingredients and supplements mixed in the flake.  The flakes are fortified with many vitamins and minerals.  The foods are now even formulated to target various types of fish – herbivores, omnivores and carnivores.  The negative of flake food is with how it is processed making it very thin and the heated processing destroys some of its nutrients.  Due to the surface area of the foods, vitamins in the fortified foods will rapidly start decomposing as soon as the package is opened.  Especially with flake foods, a hobbyist should never buy more than one month’s supply per can to ensure the foods maintain their value.

 

Pellet Food

Pellet foods are typically round in nature although some are in the stick variety mostly seen in pond fish foods.  Pellet foods are manufactured in various sizes to address the needs of most sizes of fish seen in the aquarium industry.  Of the dry foods, these are the most nutritious, due to how they are processed.  Like flake food, there are specific formulations to target the majority of the fish and vitamin/mineral fortified.  Pellet foods will also feed fish in all parts of the water column as some float, others sink slowly and some sink quickly.  Note that if you have an aquarium with an overflow, the slow and fast sinking variety work the best as the food enters the water column rapidly rather than being swept across the surface of the aquarium water into the overflow and now collecting in the mechanical portion of the filtration system.

 

Wafer food

Wafers are for target feeding certain types of fish.  These are typically in freshwater and feed off the bottom of the aquarium or are of the algae eating variety.  Fishes in this category are of the catfish, loach, botia, plecostomus, and etc. species.

 

Frozen Food

Frozen foods seem to have the largest variety available.  
There are:

• Solid meat foods – brine shrimp, blood worms, daphnia, Mysis shrimp, krill, muscles, clam, silversides, etc.  
• Formulated foods – herbivore, omnivore and carnivore diets
• Specific Species foods – discus, angel, trigger, shark, etc.

Frozen foods are able to provide other nutrients that flake and pellet can not.  The newer formulations more mimic what the fish prefer to eat in their Mother Nature environment.  Frozen foods should be part of any fish diet and then supplemented with pellet and flake for variety purposes.

 

Coral Foods

Over the last five years, coral specific foods have flooded the market.  These foods have promoted explosive coral growth, coloration and health by allowing us to keep corals never before in the past.  The acceleration in coral propagation is directly related to this change.  The manufacturers have developed refrigerated and unrefrigerated liquids and frozen foods to address the needs of most of the corals currently being kept in the hobby.

 

Treats

Brine shrimp was the only “treat” that we had until the last few years for our favorite fish.  Many people would feed their fish a staple of Brine Shrimp which is actually harmful to them.  The hobby now has great treats for our finned friends.  We have frozen meats that most any fish will jump out of the water for and just recently, canned morsels of 3 types of worms and krill.  Koi treats are also specially formulated for our pond friends.  Treats should only be fed 2-3 times per week and never as a staple food.

 

Supplements

As all fish food is processed, even the best fish feeds do not maintain the level of vitamins, minerals, omega acids, etc. that the fish find in nature.  It is always a great idea to fortify all fish feed on a daily basis with these type supplements or at a minimum of 3 feedings per week.  Garlic and banana extract are two great appetite stimulates that are now available.  Garlic has also been found to have some minor therapeutic value against parasites.  Many aquarists feed garlic every day in saltwater environments and manufacturers are now fortifying their foods on a routine basis.

 

Feeding

The majority of fish only need to be fed 1 time per day.  The exception would be truly herbivore only fish.  These fish are grazers and should be fed 2-3 times per day when a natural food source is not provided within the aquatic environment.  Fish should consume all food provided within 1 minute.  You should also try to mimic the part of the water column that the fish feed in – top, middle or bottom.  Ensure the food that makes it to the bottom is definitely eaten though.  Pay attention to the species of fish you have and provide them the foods they specifically need as you will see better coloration and have a healthier specimen.  

 

Fish will always be voracious while eating.  This is their normal feeding habit as they must eat quickly in nature or either miss out on the meal or maybe even become a meal for a larger fish.  Therefore, just because they may act like they are starved, this does not mean you need to feed any more than their normal portion.  A well balanced aquatic environment also will have mid-water feeders as with bottom feeders.  Your filter cartridge is also a barometer for proper feeding habits such that it should never become smelly or slimy on a normally stocked aquarium within 3-4 weeks between filter changes.  Remember, when in doubt, underfeed.  It is very hard to kill fish by underfeeding, but you can quickly contaminate a tank by overfeeding, even if the fish eat all of it.  Feeding high quality foods to fish will yield the same results as feeding high quality food to dogs and cats – they metabolize more of the food, excrete less waste and are healthier.

 

In summary, the better foods will provide a healthier aquatic environment from both a water quality parameter and a fish health perspective.  Prepare them a varied diet from all classes of food and remember to give them treats on a regular basis.  Feeding is a fun time for the fish so have fun feeding them.  Happy aquarium keeping.

Disease Terminology and Treatment Drugs

 

  When it comes to curing a fish, there are only two methods available to us, either Chemotherapy or Environmental, both of which have their place, but never within our tanks.
  All treatments must be performed outside of the main tank within a Quarantine Tank. As long as there are hobbyist who insist on rushing home with their new purchases and putting them directly into the main tank, then there will always be disease and parasite problems.
  All large aquariums throughout the world all have strict quarantine procedures in place for a reason. It works!.
  Besides using a medication for a treatment, you should also provide pristine water conditions to reduce any stress on the fish as well as not giving the pathogen its suitable environment (organic laden).
  Keeping the tank’s temperature on the lower end (low to mid 70’s) will hinder the growth of most pathogens and may allow medications to be more effective. Also keeping the salinity lower (SG 1.018) helps with oxygenation as many antibiotics “work” better in lower salinities as well.
  Stress reduction is very important at this point as stress will increase the fish’s metabolic rate which increases the oxygen need, which further increases the metabolic rate, a very vicious circle.

  ALL TREATMENT PLANS MUST BE CARRIED THROUGH TO THE END OF THEIR SUGGESTED LENGTH OF TREATMENT, EVEN IF THE FISH IS LOOKING BETTER, CONTINUE TREATMENT. TO CUT THE TREATMENT SHORT ONLY INVITES THE CREATION OF MEDICINE RESISTANT PATHOGENS.

  A Note on Scaleless Fish – Any medication used in the treatment of parasites, such as formalin and copper must be used at half the recommended dosage, if you see the fish having problems during such treatments, a water change will be required to reduce the medication levels and another treatment plan should be considered.
  For Mandarins – Which are notably slimy fish that are not as susceptible to external parasite infestations as other fish may be. However, they are not immune, and are overly sensitive to copper compounds, other metal-based and formalin containing medications. They are best treated through environmental manipulation, such as hyposalinity.

  DIPS / BATHS – Overall article on how to and what to use per a given infection / infestation.

  HYPO SALINITY : The lowering of the water’s salinity down to 1.009 will reduce stress on fish and kill some types of parasites, most notably, Marine Ich. This treatment requires accurate salinity testing, which a refractometer will do. The usual hydrometers are not accurate enough to ensure proper salinity levels are achieved. I strongly urge using this treatment during all quarantine periods for new arrivals of fish.
  Test Kits – If you test your water for calcium or magnesium at hyposaline levels you will get a much lowered test result. Since test kits are affected by temperature and salinity levels the following formula will take hyposaline into consideration.  Temperature range 74-86f .
  For calcium tests –  Take your current readings of your SG and subtract it from a base of 1.025 if your temp is below 80 and 1.023 if your temp is above 80 and is a multiplier of 9.632 then add that number to your calcium test results that the kits gives you. Example –  1.023 -1.009 = .014×9.632 = 0.134848 round to135, Current reading is 230+135=365 
  For magnesium tests – Use a multiplier of 2.741 but subtract that number from your current test as it will read slightly higher than normal the fresher the water gets. 

  FORMALDEHYDE (Formalin – 3% formaldehyde) – A very effective treatment for parasites. Extreme care must be used when handling this chemical. Please take the time to make sure you fully understand its dangers and correct usage.
  DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 3% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10 days. Combines well with malachite green.

  Note: For those of you who live where Formalin is controlled or restricted, there is another product called ProForm C , which contains both malachyte green and formalin that should be available to you.

  COPPER BASED Medications – Another effective treatment for parasites, and as with all chemical treatments, care must be taken with its use, accurate dosing is very important and must be done outside of the main tank. A chelated copper is considered to be of a less hazard to the fish, but may not be as effective against the parasites. For unknown parasites, I would use this method since it will kill all external species of parasites, with the exception of Brooklynella, then formalin dips would be advised. I personally would recommend Cupramine be used.
  DOSAGE: Treat according to your solution to bring your copper level to .15 -.20 ppm. Sequestered Copper (often called chelated, but that is incorrect, chelated means inactivated) sulfate works best (citric acid help achieve this). Soluble copper salts work well in freshwater only. Do use with snails and other invertebrates, do not use in reef aquariums, and note; when uses as an algaecide, the copper is absorbed by the algae then released when it dies. Removal of sequestered copper can be difficult, only EDTA (Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acidic Acid) and water changes remove it, NOT carbon.

  FRESHWATER DIPS – While I do not feel that a freshwater dip is a cure, since not all parasites will be removed, and can be very stressful for the fish, but this procedure is helpful if the fish is heavily infested and needs some immediate relief, by reducing the number of attached parasites, it may help other treatment methods be more effective.

  ERYTHROMYCIN – Effective against most gram-positive and some gram negative bacteria and fungus.  It is also used to destroy cyanobacteria but does have its risks when used in a reef aquarium. 
  DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg per 20 gallons every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days. 

  METRONIDAZOLE – A very effective treatment for Internal Protozoal infections.
  DOSAGE: 250-500 mg per 20 gallons. Treat every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.

  PIPERAZINE – Sold as Pipezine and is useful for the treatment of internal nematodes (roundworms).

  MALACHITE GREEN – Seems to be a dangerous compound to use but has been shown to be effective against a variety of problems, most commonly as a treatment for Fungal infections.
  DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 0.038% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10-14 days. Or 1 drop of .50% solution per gallon every other day for 10- 14 days. 25% water changes are recommended before each dose. Use half dose for scale-less and delicate fish such as Clown Loaches and Neon Tetras. Double dose for marine aquariums. Note; malachite green is more toxic at higher ph.

  NEOMYCIN SULFATE – An effective treatment for bacterial infections. NEVER mix with copper sulfate!
  DOSAGE: 250 mg per 10 gallons of water. Treat every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days. For tuberculosis, use for up to 30 days.

  METHYLENE BLUE – Commonly used as a “cure all” for bacterial infections.
  DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a zinc free 2.303% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10 days with water changes before each treatment. BEST USED IN A QUARANTINE TANK. Methylene blue can destroy nitrifying bacteria and plants in the display aquarium. 

  MINOCYCLINE – Sold as Maracyn 2 , Very effective against bacterial infections, if used at double the recommended dosage. Side note: This medication is also administered to us humans since there is a bacterial infection that we can catch from our fish tanks! Human Infections

  NITROFURAZONE – Sold as Furacyn, Effective against bacterial infections.
  DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg per 20 gallons. Treat every 24 hours with a 50% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days. 

  KANAMYCN SULFATE – Sold as Kanacyn, Effective against bacterial infections.

  OCTOZIN – Useful for internal parasites.

  PRAZIQUANTEL – Sold as Prazipro and Droncit,Effective against Trematodes. While this is a very difficult problem to diagnose, it is important to note that with Trematodes, there are two distinct forms of concern for us, which involves their life cycles, there are digenetic trematodes which require two or more other life forms that they must pass through before ending up on our fish, since those other life forms are not present in our tanks, this problem will just die off on its own. The type of trematode that is of concern for us are the mono genetic types that have only one host needed (our fish). If this medication is administered via bath it will not be as effective on internal parasites as administering via food. Can be obtained on line: Nationalfishpharm.com or through a vet.

  ACRIFLAVINE – Effective against the parasite Amyloodinium.

  SULFASOXAZOLE – Effective against bacterial infections.

  TRIPLE SULFA (Sulfamerazine, Sulfamethazine, Sulfathiazole) – Treatment of gram-negative bacterial infections, fin and tail rot and mouth fungus.
  DOSAGE: 250 mg per 10 gallons every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for a minimum of 10 days.

  “Natural” Treatments:

  PIMAFIX – Effective against cotton like fungal infections as well as external and internal bacterial infections. There is debate on such medications amongst the hobby, some are against its use while other hobbyists have noted very good results with this product if used in conjunction with Melafix. A word of caution with its use, there has been observations that fish may experience oxygen deprivation / suffocation. As such, increased aeration should be used as well as monitoring the fish closely.

  GARLIC– In my corrected opinion, while garlic use is still somewhat of a controversial additive, it does perform as a mild anti-helminth (dewormer) and does have some anti-bacterial properties, but should be used with more conventional treatments.

  BETA GLUCAN – “Beta glucan works as a biological defense modifier. It activates the immune system by stimulating receptors on macrophages that cause them to react as if a fungus is attacking the body.” In other words, this is a great way to help the fish help itself, supplementing this product to the fish food will increase its own immune system and may just save you a few trips to the fish pharmacy.

Ammonia ( H3)

The presence of ammonia in aquarium water is the #1 killer of fish. The primary sources of ammonia are the decaying of organic material (primarily uneaten food) and excreted waste from the fishes’ gills.

An ammonia level as low as .5 part per million (ppm) creates stress upon fish compromising the natural immune system. It has been demonstrated with laboratory experiments involving koi (and thus, we assume, equally true with other fish species) that an ammonia level of 2 ppm causes the natural immune system of the fish to cease functioning. The fish does not have the strength to cope with both the ammonia related stress and disease prevention. As the elevated ammonia level presents the more immediate possibility of death, all of the fishes’ energy must be devoted to combating that threat.

The presence of ammonia any time after the nitrification cycle has completed itself is the fault of the hobbyist and must be corrected. Its reoccurrence is precipitated by (but not limited to):

• Inadequate and/or poorly maintained biological filtration.

• Overfeeding.

• Overcrowding.

• Not performing periodic water changes and gravel vacuuming.

• Allowing dead inhabitants to decay.

Ammonia problems can only be corrected by:

• Doing partial water changes and adding ammonia-digesting bacteria (Bio-Booster) until the level present approaches zero;

• By improving your individual hobbyist habits and maintenance skills.

Temporary methods of reducing ammonia levels in order of preference include:

• Suspending and/or reducing feeding.

• Dosing with Bio-Booster

• Introducing an ammonia binder into the aquarium (freshwater or pond only).

pH

In simple terms, pH is a way of indicating whether a volume of water is acid, alkaline, or neutral. pH is measured on a scale from 1.0 to 14.0, with 7.0 being neutral, below 7.0 acidic and above 7.0 alkaline. The pH required for aquatic life lies between 5.5 and 8.5, with a natural environmental variation of only a few fractions of a pH unit. Individual species will have varying demands as far as pH, and ignorance of the requirements of each species can cause the death of the animal. Always check tapwater or premixed saltwater pH before adding water to the aquarium.

pH impacts fish in two ways. First, if the pH is too low, a condition called acidosis can result. Symptoms are anorexia followed by the promotion of excess slime, isolation and resting on the bottom. Finally, visible hemorrhaging in the fins and death will result. Acidosis is rapidly corrected once the pH is brought up to a suitable range. Too high a pH can produce alkalosis symptomized by excess slime and gasping at the surface. Losses can be major and alkalosis is hard to reverse once it occurs.

A notable relationship exists between pH and ammonia in that pH contributes to the toxicity of ammonia. At higher pH values, ammonia is more toxic. Below pH 7.2 most ammonia is ionized to ammonium which is far less toxic. This has relevance if you are considering raising the pH of a system with detectable ammonia (be careful with water changes when this is occurring). The use of appropriate substrates, particularly in brackish, marine and African cichlid aquaria, will serve to stabilize the pH at the proper level

Alkalinity

Known by various other names such as “KH” and “carbonate hardness”, alkalinity, or pH stability, is the measure of the buffering capacity of the water, its ability to maintain a constant pH over and extended period of time. Buffering compounds, water changes and aragonite substrates serve to maintain a proper level of alkalinity, thus stabilizing pH.

One of the areas in which technological development has really made a huge difference to the health and longevity of reef tank setups is lighting. Until a few years ago, the aspiring reefkeeper was faced with a choice of either expensive metal halide lamps (needing supplemental blue lighting from fluorescent tubes), a combination of fluorescent tubes (that even the experts couldn’t agree on), or mercury vapor lights that were completely unsuitable in terms of color spectrum.

Those days were over with the arrival of specialized fluorescent tubes designed for marine systems. Subsequently, quite a range of such tubes has come on the market, considerably simplifying things for those of use with reef aquaria. Metal halide lighting has also evolved. Bulbs are now available which deliver the correct spectrum for invertebrates without the need for supplementary fluorescent tubes. Prices have also become more affordable.

Marine aquariums need light for a number of reasons. In a fish-only system the primary reason for lighting the tank is to view the fish. If lighting of sufficient intensity is provided, macroalgae or even filamentous algae can be stimulated to grow, with the benefit of improving water quality. Algal growth also stimulates the establishment of populations of small crustaceans, providing both a direct (the algae itself) and indirect source of food for the fish.

In a reef tank, lighting is much more important because most of the corals and invertebrates depend upon light as a primary source of food. Within their tissues, these animals harbor populations of single celled algae, known as zooxanthellae, which photosynthesize to produce nutrients then used by the host.

In nature, reef inhabitants reside a different depths, therefore requiring different intensity of light to thrive. Red light penetrates water poorly, whereas blue, violet and ultraviolet light can reach much greater depths. Consequently, in order to choose the correct spectrum lighting it’s important to know where on the reef your pets came from. If you have any questions, please come in or give us a call.

Transportation

Once you have left Fintastic, your animal purchase responsibilities begin immediately. Your purchase should remain in the merchandise bag and not be taken out until you arrive in front of your aquarium. The animals should travel placed in a seat in your vehicle, not on the floorboard, secured such that a rapid stop will not allow the fish to fall off the seat. Vibration and temperature control are problematic when the animals are on the floor of the vehicle. You must ensure the temperature of the vehicle does not move from the 70- 80 degree range. You also would want to have the fish floating in your aquarium within 4 hours .

Acclimation

To minimize stress on your new arrivals and to ensure their long-term success, the acclimation procedure listed below must be followed for all fish, invertebrates and live corals. Please note that following this procedure is mandatory to qualify for our guarantees. Be sure to read this entire procedure – including the Important Facts – before beginning the acclimation process.

Quarantining Aquatic Life

Though not a requirement of our Acclimation Procedure, we highly recommend that all aquatic life, including algae, be quarantined in a separate aquarium for a period of two to four weeks. Quarantining new arrivals virtually eliminates the possibility of introducing diseases and parasites to your tank and allows new tank mates to regain optimal health before its final transition to your aquarium.

Acclimation Procedure

1. Turn off aquarium lights.

2. Dim the lights in the room where the shipping bag will be opened. Never open the bag in bright light – severe stress or trauma may result from sudden exposure to bright light.

3. Float the sealed bag in the aquarium for 15 minutes (Fig. A). Never open the shipping bag at this time. This step allows the water in the shipping bag to adjust slowly to the temperature in the aquarium, while maintaining a high level of dissolved oxygen.

 

4. After floating the sealed shipping bag for 15 minutes, cut open the bag just under the rubber band (Fig. B) and roll the top edge of the bag down one inch to create an air pocket within the lip of the bag.

 

This will enable the bag to float on the surface of the water (Fig. C). For heavy pieces of live coral that will submerge the shipping bag, place the bag containing the coral in a plastic bowl or specimen container.

 

5. Add 1/2 cup (small bags) or 1 cup (8″ or greater bags) of aquarium water to the shipping bag (Fig. D).

 

6. Repeat step 5 every five minutes until the shipping bag is full.

7. Lift the shipping bag from the aquarium and discard half the water from the bag (Fig. E).

 

8. Float the shipping bag in the aquarium again and proceed to add 1/2 cup (small bags) or 1 cup (8″ or greater bags) of aquarium water to the shipping bag every five minutes until the bag is full.

9. Net aquatic life from the shipping bag and release into the aquarium (Fig. F).

 

10. Remove the filled shipping bag from the aquarium and discard the water. Never release shipping water directly into the aquarium.

Important Information

• Be patient – never rush the acclimation procedure. The total acclimation time for your new arrival should take no longer than one hour.

• Always follow the acclimation procedure even if your new arrival appears to be dead. Some fish and invertebrates can appear as though they are dead when they arrive and will usually revive when the above procedure is followed correctly.

• Never place an air stone into the shipping bag when acclimating your new arrival. This will increase the pH of the shipping water too quickly and expose your new arrival to lethal ammonia.

• Keep aquarium lights off for at least four hours after the new arrival is introduced into the aquarium or preferably over night.

• Most invertebrates and marine plants are more sensitive than fish to salinity changes. It is imperative to acclimate invertebrates to a specific gravity of 1.023-1.025 or severe stress or trauma may result.

• Sponges, clams, scallops, and gorgonians should never be directly exposed to air. Follow the acclimation procedure, but instead of netting the specimen out of the shipping bag, drain the majority of the water out of the bag allowing the bag to collapse on the animal yet still not allowing any air to touch the animal, submerge the bag underwater in the aquarium and remove the marine life from the bag. Seal off the shipping bag underwater by twisting the opening, and remove it from the aquarium. Discard both the shipping bag and the enclosed water. A tiny amount of the diluted shipping water will escape into the aquarium. Don’t be alarmed; this will have no adverse affect on the tank inhabitants.

• In some instances, your new tank mate will be chased and harassed by one or all of your existing tank mates.

Solution 1 : A plastic spaghetti strainer (found at your local discount store) can be used to contain a tank bully within the aquarium for several hours until the new arrival adjusts to its surroundings. Justfloat the perforated plastic basket in the aquarium. Net the tank bully and place in the floating basket for approximately four hours or overnight if the size of the animal is not too large, while the new arrival adjusts to your aquarium. Never place the new arrival in this basket; the new specimen must get familiar with your aquarium. By placing the tank bully in a perforated basket, you’ll reduce the stress on your newest tank mate.

Solution 2 : A perforated plastic lighting grid (egg crate) can be purchased from Fintastic and cut it down to the width of your aquarium. This grid may be used to section off a small portion of the aquarium to separate territorial or aggressive fish from the newest tank mate. After the new addition adjusts to the unfamiliar environment, the divider can be removed.

• Some live corals produce excess slime when shipped. After the acclimation procedure is followed, hold the coral by the rock or skeletal base and shake the coral in the shipping bag before placing into the aquarium. To avoid damage, please remember never to touch the “fleshy” part of a live coral. Many species of coral will not open for several days after introduction into their new home. Please allow several days for the coral to adapt to the new conditions in the aquarium. Correct water flow over the new specimen will aid in its extending its polyps.

If a Loss Occurs

We go to great lengths to ensure that the aquarium life we pull for you is in the best condition possible. Unfortunately, there are rare instances when aquatic life does not survive during transit or within the guarantee period despite every effort to ensure its well-being.

 

 

The above diagram is a graphic portrayal of the biological filter (nitrification) cycle. The actual toxicity levels and the number of days required for the completion of the cycle depends upon the aquarium size, the species of animals, size, number of fish therein, the amount of dissolved oxygen in the water, and the quality/efficiency of the biological filtration. The cycle does not begin until fish are added into the aquarium or pond!

The nitrification cycle is the process that transforms new nonfunctioning biological filter beds into biologically established filters.

• Initially the aquarium should be lightly populated with relatively inexpensive, hardy fish. We do not recommend feeder goldfish for this purpose as they are unlikely to survive the cycle. Being particularly sensitive to ammonia, scavengers, algae eaters and scaleless species should not be included among the first inhabitants.

• Fish digestion, respiration and decomposition of uneaten food begins to produce ammonia (NH3) Once ammonia becomes detectable, no other fish should be added to the aquarium. Do not perform partial water changes or add ammonia binders unless you are experiencing multiple fish deaths. Doing so will reduce ammonia toxicity but will prolong the cycle.

• A species of nitrifying bacteria, nitrosomonas, begins to convert the toxic ammonia into equally toxic nitrite (NO2).

• Another nitrifying bacteria, nitrobacter, then converts the toxic nitrite into relatively harmless nitrate (NO3). This completes the cycle, allowing you to add additional fish and commence regular, periodic water changes and gravel vacuuming.

Our Product Return Policy

Fintastic offers a 30 Day Return Policy for all Dry Goods purchases as follows:

All custom orders, special orders, or items cut by a customer or to a customers specifications cannot be returned.

All special order layaway deposits are non refundable.

The product must be unused and in its original packaging.

The product must be able to be resold as new. Damaged packaging cannot be accepted.

All refunds only with a valid Sales Receipt. Cash and Debit Card purchases will be refunded in cash. Check refunds available in cash 2 weeks after purchase. Credit Card purchases will be refunded to the Credit Card used for the purchase.

A 50% Store Credit will be issued without a valid receipt for resalable products.

We cannot accept returns for any purchases of plants, corals, invertebrates and fish.

We reserve the right to offer a 30% Store Credit for live returns solely based on the discretion of Fintastic management.

All live return credits will be issued only after survival of a one week (7 day) quarantine period. Fintastic assumes no liability for lost animals during this time.

Our Customer Service Goals

♦ TO GREET ALL VISITORS TO OUR STORE WITH A WARM, FRIENDLY SMILE

♦ TO PROVIDE PROMPT SERVICE TO EVERY CUSTOMER

♦ TO OFFER THE BEST SELECTION A ND THE HIGHEST QUALITY PRODUCTS

♦ TO CON FIDEN TLY OFFER OPTIO NS, SOLUTION S, AN D K NOWLEDGE

♦ TO FOLLOW UP A ND FOLLOW THROUGH TO OUR COMMITMEN TS

♦ TO OPE NLY RECEIVE CUSTOMER CON CERN S A ND IDE NTIFY SATISFACTORY SOLUTION S

♦ TO MAI TAIN A POSITIVE ATTITUDE AN D APPEARA NCE

♦ TO OFFER E NCOURAGEME T TO ALL AQUATIC HOBBYISTS

Acclimation Guidelines

To minimize stress on your new arrivals and to ensure their long-term success, the acclimation procedure listed below must be followed for all fish, invertebrates and live corals. Please note that following this procedure is mandatory to qualify for our livestock warranty. Be sure to read this entire procedure – including the Im- portant Facts – before beginning the acclimation process.

Acclimation Procedure

1. Turn off aquarium lights.

2. Float the sealed bag in the aquarium for 15 minutes Never open the shipping bag at this time. This step allows the water in the shipping bag to adjust slowly to the temperature in the aquarium, while main- taining a high level of dissolved oxygen.

3. After floating the sealed shipping bag for 15 minutes, cut open the bag and roll the top edge of the bag down one inch to create an air pocket within the lip of the bag. This will enable the bag to float on the surface of the water For heavy pieces of live coral that will submerge the shipping bag, place the bag containing the coral in a plastic bowl or specimen container.

4. Add 1/2 cup of aquarium water to the shipping bag.

5. Repeat step 4 every four minutes until the shipping bag is full.

6. Lift the shipping bag from the aquarium and discard half the water from the bag.

7. Float the shipping bag in the aquarium again and proceed to add 1/2 cup of aquarium water to the shipping bag every four minutes until the bag is full.

8. Remove aquatic life from the shipping bag and release into the aquarium.

9. Remove the filled shipping bag from the aquarium and discard the water. Never release shipping water directly into the aquarium.

Important Facts

• Be patient – never rush the acclimation procedure. The total acclimation time for your new arri- val should take no longer than one hour.

• Always follow the acclimation procedure even if your new arrival appears to be dead. Some fish and invertebrates can appear as though they are dead when they arrive and will usually revive when the above procedure is followed correctly.

• Never place an air stone into the shipping bag when acclimating your new arrival. This will in- crease the pH of the shipping water too quickly and expose your new arrival to lethal ammonia.

• Keep aquarium lights off for at least four hours after the new arrival is introduced into the aquarium.

• Most invertebrates and marine plants are more sensitive than fish to salinity changes. It is imperative to acclimate invertebrates to a specific gravity of 1.023-1.025 or severe stress or trauma may result.

• Sponges, clams, scallops, and gorgonians should never be directly exposed to air. Follow the acclimation procedure, but instead of remov- ing the specimen out of the shipping bag, sub- merge the bag underwater in the aquarium and remove the marine life from the bag. Seal off the shipping bag underwater by twisting the opening, and remove it from the aquarium. Discard both the shipping bag and the enclosed water. A tiny amount of the diluted shipping water will escape into the aquarium. Don’t be alarmed; this will have no adverse affect on the tank inhabitants.

• In some instances, your new tank mate will be chased and harassed by one or all of your existing tank mates. Solution 1: A plastic spaghetti strainer (found at your local discount store) can be used to contain a tank bully within the aquar- ium for several hours until the new arrival adjusts to its surroundings. Just float the perforated plas- tic basket in the aquarium. Net the tank bully and place in the floating basket for approximately four hours while the new arrival adjusts to your aquar- ium. Never place the new arrival in this basket; the new specimen must get familiar with your aquarium. By placing the tank bully in a perfo- rated basket, you’ll reduce the stress on your newest tank mate. Solution 2: A tank divider can be purchased at Fintastic and cut down to the width of your aquarium. This divider may be used to section off a small portion of the aquarium to separate territorial or aggressive fish from the newest tank mate. After the new addition adjusts to the unfamiliar environment, the divider can be removed

Coral Information

Some live corals produce excess slime when shipped. After the acclimation procedure is followed, hold the coral by the rock or skele- tal base and shake the coral in the shipping bag before placing into the aquarium. To avoid damage, please remember never to touch the “fleshy” part of a live coral. Many species of coral will not open for several days after introduction into their new home. Please allow several days for the coral to adapt to the new conditions in the aquarium. You may need to move the coral within the tank for the first several weeks to determine its’ best location. Good polyp extension will indicate a suitable location.

Our Livestock Warranty

As a courtesy to our customers, FINTASTIC offers a replacement guarantee for all Freshwater and Saltwater fish purchases. All fish return claims must be accompanied by the dead fish, in its own bag or container of water, a separate sample of your tank water and the sales receipt.

Freshwater: We offer a 100% replacement on any fish that dies within 24 hours after purchase, providing that the customer’s water sample tests out within normal parameters. If the fish dies within 7 days after purchase, the fish will be replaced at 50% off the actual net retail price paid. Limit 1 replacement only. We do not offer a warranty on feeder fish.

Saltwater: We offer a 50% replacement on any fish that dies within the first three days after purchase, provided that the customer’s water sample tests out within normal parameters. We do not offer warranty on corals or invertebrates.

Shark eggs are subject to the same warranty as all fish. Limit 1 replacement only.

FINTASTIC will not be obligated to buy back or refund money on any fish under any circumstances nor can offer a warranty against aggression.

ONE MORE THING

Visit our Website for helpful advice and articles related to the aquatics hobby under “Articles”.

Join our Loyal Customer Club to receive valuable infor- mation and money saving offers from Fintastic via email.

We welcome your feedback. If you’re not satisfied with the products or service you receive from our store. Please ask to speak to a manager so that we can ad- dress your needs and continue to improve.

 

Improper water quality and inadequate aquarium maintenance are the primary causes of fish disease and fish death. The purpose of this handout is to briefly discuss the various water quality parameters, which need to be understood and monitored to ensure a healthy aquarium environment. We then will discuss aquarium maintenance as this directly impacts your overall water quality.

Water Quality Parameters:

• “Tap water is supplied for one purpose – human consumption. It is carefully screened, cleaned, treated with prophylactic chemicals and pumped into our homes for our use. It does not, however, carry a guarantee that that it is suitable for fishkeeping!” (The Encyclopedia of Tropical Aquarium Fish; Dick Mills and Dr. Gwynne Vevers; Tetra Press; page 24). Reverse osmosis (RO) water is “tap water” that has been processed to strip 99% of all contaminants out of the “tap water.” This pure water is absolutely the best water to use for all types of aquariums. Reference is made to “How to Control Algae” handout.
• It is imperative that the hobbyists have an understanding of the properties of water, the importance of maintaining water quality and the necessity of using test kits to monitor water quality.
• In all instances it should be noted that the appropriate water temperature is as critical a factor to the success of your aquarium as any other parameter. Understand your specific temperature needs and maintain them accordingly.
• The following water qualities can, and should, be tested with the appropriate aquarium test kits on a regular, continuing basis or whenever something appears to be amiss.

pH:

pH of water is a measure of acidity or alkalinity. The pH ranges from 0 to 14, with 7 as the neutral point. Above pH 7 water is alkaline; below 7 it is acidic. Charlotte tap water will USUALLY measure between 8.0 and 9.5. This is NOT ACCEPTABLE for MOST freshwater species you will encounter. Goldfish, Gouramis, Livebearers, South and Central American Cichlids, Tetras, Rainbows, Danios, etc. require different water parameters. ALWAYS test tap water pH prior to making freshwater aquarium water changes and adjust as required.

Ammonia:

Ammonia is the most toxic product formed in water. Sources of ammonia in aquarium water are fish respiration, digestion, and decaying foods. Freshwater fish begin to be stressed at levels of .50 ppm (parts per million). Marine aquaria levels should be less than .05 ppm; reef tanks at 0 ppm. Note that toxic ammonia converts to nontoxic ammonium when the pH is below 7.0. 2

Nitrite:

Nitrite is the toxic intermediary product created in the process of breaking down organic waste products. It occurs between ammonia and nitrate in the breakdown sequence. Levels above 1.0 ppm are to be avoided in fresh water aquaria. Saltwater fish levels should also be maintained at less than 1.0 ppm; although this is not as critical due to nitrite not easily entering saltwater fish’s blood. Nitrite levels in reef aquaria should be 0 ppm.

Nitrate:

Nitrate is a mildly poisonous end product of the breakdown of nitrogenous waste products in the aquarium. While thought to be harmless to MOST freshwater species, freshwater aquarium levels should not exceed 300 ppm. Less than 50 ppm is the desired level for saltwater aquaria. Reef tanks should be maintained at less than 5 ppm. High nitrate levels in both freshwater and saltwater aquariums will promote excessive algae growth. Note that “tap water” contains nitrate and many other harmful contaminates.

Chlorine:

Chlorine is a chemical additive used to destroy bacteria and is in Charlotte tap water. It is lethal to fish above .2 ppm. A good brand dechlorinator will eliminate chlorine instantly and should be used when using water sources other than reverse osmosis or deionized water.

Hardness:

Hardness is a measure of dissolved calcium and magnesium salts in water. Charlotte tap water usually ranges from soft to medium hardness. This is ACCEPTABLE for MOST freshwater fish and plant species. If the water is too hard for your specific application (such as breeding certain species), simply mix it with RO or deionized water until the required hardness is obtained. Most hobbyists will not have to measure this particular water quality.

Alkalinity: Alkalinity is a numeric measure of the resistance of water to a change in pH as acid is added. The higher the number (i.e. 2 MEQ/L – 3.5 MEQ/L), the more resistant pH is to dropping. Marine tanks should have an alkalinity of 3.2 MEQ/L or higher.

SALTWATER SPECIFICS

Specific Gravity:

The specific gravity (or density) is the ratio of the amount of total dissolved salts in water when compared to pure water. Pure water has a specific gravity of 1.000. As more salts are added to the water, the specific gravity increases. Marine aquariums should have a STABLE specific gravity of 1.022 to 1.027 with a median value of 1.023 being best.

Calcium:

Calcium carbonate is the building block of coral skeletons, clamshells and calcareous algae. Hard corals, soft corals, clams, snails, scallops, shrimps, crabs, starfish, sea urchins, and some algae extract calcium from the water continuously. Reef aquarium levels should be at least 400 ppm.

Phosphates: Phosphate is a salt, commonly found in tap water, which serves as an algae nutrient. Maximum phosphate levels are 2 – 3 ppm with less than .05 ppm being ideal. Reef tanks should be maintained at less than .05 ppm. Charlotte tap water has a phosphate level of 1 ppm. 3

AQUARUIM MAIN TEN A CE

Gravel Vacuuming and Partial Water Changes

• Regular, periodic partial water changes are mandatory to maintain proper water chemistry. A 25% water change every two weeks is recommended. Smaller volume, more frequent water changes are even more beneficial.
• Fish respiration, fish digestion and the decay of uneaten food generate three nitrogenous compounds; ammonia; nitrite, and nitrate. The first two, ammonia and nitrite, are toxic to fish and extended exposure to them or introduction of fish to these compounds from non-contaminated water will result in disease and/or death. Nitrate is considered to be harmless to most fresh water species. At low levels it is stressful to saltwater fish; at high levels it can be toxic.
• In an established (cycled) WELL-MAINTAINED aquarium there are nitrifying bacteria present which will convert ammonia and nitrite into a relatively non-toxic compound (nitrate). Nitrates are best removed from the aquarium by performing partial water changes. There are also nitratereducing compounds which work well when utilized on a regular basis.
• When performing partial water changes, the gravel should be simultaneously vacuumed to remove trapped debris and uneaten food to insure an adequate oxygen supply to the nitrifying bacteria and to remove undesirable nutrients.

Gravel vacuuming procedures:

1. Unplug heaters, power filters, powerheads, and air pumps.
2. Remove ornamentation other than live plants.
3. “Walk” the gravel cleaner across the entire bottom of the aquarium, agitating the substrate in the gravel cleaning tube until the water being extracted is free of debris. If water is being removed too quickly to remove all the debris, pinch the gravel cleaner hose to restrict the water flow. If you have a plenum in your saltwater aquarium, only the top ½” of sand should be cleaned so as not to disturb the anaerobic bed.
4. In freshwater aquariums add dechlorinator and aquarium salt per manufacturer’s instructions TO THE AQUARIUM based on the volume of water you are changing.
5. Refill the aquarium with water of the SAME temperature and pH as that of the aquarium water.
6. In saltwater aquariums, the replacement water must be dechlorinated, premixed, and prebuffered before being added to the aquarium. ALWAYS dechlorinate the water prior to the addition of sea salt. Some marine salts now include a dechlorinator in their ingredients. However, this dechlorinator is not uniformly distributed throughout and should not be relied upon as the sole source of dechlorination. Premixed saltwater should be aerated or otherwise agitated for 24 hours before being introduced into the aquarium to insure that the specific gravity and pH are correct. The use of RO or deionized water is highly recommended.
7. Restart filters, powerheads, and air pumps.
8. WAIT fifteen minutes BEFORE plugging the heaters back in.

There are specific circumstances that will somewhat alter the above procedures. These include:

1. If the pH is extremely low, several small volume water changes (approximately 15% must be done twenty-four hours apart. A single, large volume water change will put the fish into pH shock, probably resulting in multiple fish deaths. This is particularly crucial if ammonium is also present. Raising the pH will chemically alter the ammonium increasing its toxicity by turning it into ammonia.
2. DO NOT do gravel vacuum/partial water changes while the nitrification cycle is occurring unless you are experiencing multiple fish deaths. Water changes will lengthen the time frame for this required cycle to complete itself. The addition of Bio Booster is a must!!
3. If your aquarium is not equipped with a Penguin or Emperor Bio Wheel system or an undergravel filter, gravel vacuuming and filter maintenance should not be performed at the same time. The consequent loss of a large percentage of nitrifying bacteria can cause temporary ammonia and nitrite related stress to the fish. These two functions should be performed at one-week intervals.
4. Continually “topping off” aquariums to replace evaporated water increases toxicity concentration as toxins do not evaporate. Such water replacements do not constitute a water change.

Power filters, Powerheads, and Water pumps:

• Periodically remove the impeller. Clean the impeller and the impeller seating area to remove debris and slime coating, which will retard the electromagnetic field.
• Keep the intake strainer and/or prefilter clear of debris.
• NEVER restrict the intake flow of water. Any adjustments to flow rate must be made to the exhaust.
• Clean protein skimmer tops weekly (or as needed) to maintain a clear view of the operating level of the skimmer.
• Other specific maintenance per manufacturer’s instructions.

Filter Media:

• Disposable filter cartridges should be replaced monthly on an average stocked aquarium. Filters recirculate the same water over and over. Regardless of where particulates collect – whether it is the aquarium bottom or in the filter – they will be broken down to produce ammonia. Monthly replacement of filter cartridges will remove the particulate from the aquarium and keep the flow rate from slowing down due to clogging. This will also keep the carbon within the cartridge fresh.
• Reusable and/or biological filter media should be washed in water taken from the aquarium only if needed. This should not be needed on a regular basis. Chlorine in tap water is lethal to nitrifying bacteria, so DO NOT rinse the biological filter with tap water.
• Soaking in a solution of unscented household bleach and water (one part bleach to five parts water) for several hours should clean micron cartridges. Rinse thoroughly under pressure. As an added precaution, they can be soaked in a solution of water and dechlorinator prior to being reused.
• Chemical filter media; carbon, ammo carb and ammonia chips should be replaced each month. These media remove molecules of organic compounds from the water UNTIL the surface area becomes saturated. Once saturated, these media are no longer effective and may, in fact, begin releasing compounds back into the water.
• Several manufacturers now offer rechargeable chemical media as an alternative to carbon. These should be used and recharged in accordance with manufacturer’s instructions.

Important: If for any reason, the power filter has been shut off for two hours or less, biological, chemical and mechanical filter media should be thoroughly rinsed with aquarium water before restarting the filter. To preserve existing nitrifying bacteria, rinse the biological filter media with water taken from the aquarium. If the power filter has been off for more than two hours, the mechanical and chemical filter media must be discarded and the biological media thoroughly rinsed with aquarium water. Toxic anaerobic bacteria will be present which may cause fish deaths.

Air Pumps and Air Stones:

• Diaphragms and flapper valves have to be replaced periodically as symptomized by reduced output and/or noisy operation.
• If your air pump is equipped with a fibrous filter, replacing this filter regularly will greatly prolong pump life.
• The purchase of a supplementary battery air pump is highly recommended to prevent the loss of oxygenation during power outages.
• Air stones eventually become clogged as evidenced by reduced bubbling and should be replaced to prevent the loss of nitrifying bacteria and damage to the air pump. Soak new air stones in water for several hours before installing them in the aquarium.
• Air stones in protein skimmers should be replaced every two weeks.

Aquarium Glass:

• Clean the exterior glass with a non-toxic aquarium glass cleaner and paper towels. Spray the glass cleaner onto the paper towel rather than onto the glass itself to prevent over spray into the aquarium. Do not use glass cleaners that are NOT specifically designed for aquarium use (i.e. Windex) as this may harm your fish.
• Clean the interior glass with an algae scrubber pad. Ideally, do this just prior to changing the filter media or doing a partial water change so that dislodged algae will be removed from the aquarium when the cartridge is replaced. Algae magnet cleaners are also available which will minimize your hand contact with the water. Never use algae pads for any other purpose in your home.
• Glass canopies should be cleaned regularly to provide maximum penetration of light.

Aquarium Lighting:

• Fluorescent tubes and starters should be replaced every twelve months in freshwater aquariums to provide maximum visual quality and plant growth.
• Fluorescent tubes should be replaced every six to eight months in marine aquariums to provide the correct balance of full spectrum lighting. Nuisance microalgae is the result of negative color shifts in the spectrum of light in aged bulbs.
• VHO tubes should be changed every five to six months.
• Power compact lamps should be replaced every ten to twelve months.
• Metal halide bulbs should be replaced every ten to twelve months with 20,000K bulbs replaced every six months.
• Maintain adequate lighting. Recent research indicates that the intensity of the light is even more critical than the duration. A single full spectrum bulb may be adequate for a ten-gallon (or other twelve-inch aquarium) but taller tanks need a higher degree of luminance. Some modern reflectors or hoods have the capacity to hold two bulbs. If this is the choice you make, we strongly suggest that two entirely different types of bulbs be used: a full spectrum bulb in front so that your fish show to their best advantage and a bulb more advantageous to plant growth in the rear.

Artificial Plants, Rocks, and Other Ornamentation:

• Surface algae and dirt can be removed by soaking the item in a solution of unscented household bleach and water (one part bleach to five parts water). Rinse thoroughly and soak briefly in dechlorinator (sodium thiosulphate) before returning to the aquarium. DO NOT soak driftwood in bleach. Scrubbing with a soft bristle brush can clean the surface.
• Be very cautious about using decorations found in local streams, rivers, lakes, oceans, or on land. These may have come in contact with fertilizers, petroleum products, or other toxins. To be safe, use these type items to decorate your home, not your fish’s home.
• Some medications consist of permanent dye base solutions. Remove porous surface decorations while medicating.

Live Plants: (Stan Makowski; Jermack Cultivated Plants)

• “Trim bunch plants before planting. Remove the weight, trim as many leaves from the stem as is practical, then replace the weight in a spiral fashion, but not too tightly. Some plants will survive without this simple procedure, but more often the leaves under the weight rot over the first week or two, and this causes the stem to deteriorate at the base and the rest of the plant to surface. When 6 planting rooted plants, it is critical that they not be placed too deeply in the gravel. The top of the root structure should be visible. Once established, live plants should be pruned periodically.
• Remember to use fertilizer. Most liquid fertilizers, in addition to replacing needed trace elements and nutrients, actually aid in changing mulm into substances that are more easily absorbed by the plant’s roots. A good quality liquid fertilizer may be adequate for a beginner’s aquarium or even one of small dimensions. However, those wanting optimum results would be wise to also purchase one of the many products that apply fertilizer directly to the gravel. Test kits are now available to test the iron level in the water. If phosphate is present (Charlotte tap water: 1 ppm), the available iron will chemically combine with the phosphate forming a compound which is insoluble by the plants. An iron deficiency condition known as iron chlorosis may result. The plants turn yellow and the leaves and stems both become very brittle. Fertilizers containing iron supplements will correct this condition.
• Filtration. Avoid an undergravel filter if at all possible. For reasons not yet completely understood, undergravel filters appear to inhibit aquarium plants form absorbing certain vital nutrients. As a result, plants may become stunted and pale yellow in color, indicating that photosynthesis is somehow disrupted. If you already have an undergravel filter and do not want to remove it, consider leaning heavily on potted plants. Also to be avoided in heavily planted aquariums are devices, which would enrich the water with oxygen and/or cause carbon dioxide to escape. These include power filters whose return flow causes heavy surface turbulence and airstones. Trickle filters are also not recommended, as the filtered water contains almost no carbon dioxide.

Feeding:

DO NOT OVER FEED. Unless your fish are highly specialized feeders or have a very high metabolism (i.e. yellow tangs), feed your fish once daily and only what they will completely consume in 1 – 2 minutes time. To insure adequate nutrition, provide a varied diet and use vitamins on the food at least twice a week. Uneaten food should be removed from the aquarium if not eaten with 5 minutes. Contrary to many manufacturers’ claims, overfeeding will result in cloudy water, excessive algae growth and deteriorating water quality.

Conclusion:

Thank you for taking the time to read this handout. We trust that it will serve to answer most of your questions as they arise. Hopefully, it has not left you with reservations that successfully maintaining an aquarium is an arduous task. Nothing could be further from the truth. Primarily, it is a matter of common sense. Fish, and other aquatic inhabitants, cannot survive in polluted water. Take a few moments each day (feeding provides an excellent opportunity) to observe that everything in the aquarium is functioning properly. Evaluate the overall condition and appearance of the fish and other inhabitants. Remove any uneaten food material or other debris on the substrate and/or ornamentation and remove any water spotting on the glass or aquarium trim. If the fish appear to be behaving abnormally, make the appropriate tests to insure proper water quality and look closely to see if there are any visible signs of disease. Twice a month devote the small amount of time required to perform partial water changes and gravel vacuuming, service the filters as required, scrape algae from the glass and check water quality. The result will be a trouble free, long term successful aquatic experience. ENJOY

Aquarium ultraviolet (UV) water sterilizers for fresh and saltwater aquariums have never quite caught on in the same way as their pond equivalents, perhaps because they are not used for the same reason – although they should be! The result of a pond’s UV unit destroying singlecelled algae is almost a happy accident, as they are generally used to just clear up “green water” and not for any other sterilizing properties. However, the main function of any such unit, indoors or out, can and should be to control pathogens and harmful bacteria by halting cell reproduction, a property of ultraviolet light discovered in 1877. UV sterilizers produce shortwave ultraviolet light that kills waterborne algae spores with ease, provided they are exposed to the radiation for a sufficient length of time. The UV light actually breaks the DNA chain, thus preventing the algae spores from reproducing.

The reasons for using UV sterilizers are compelling. For example, a typical pond or aquarium may have species of fish from many different sources. These fish come with specific pathogens found in their locations and have a natural immunity or resistance already developed. Other fish that come into contact with them in the close confines of a pond or aquarium (of any size) have little or no resistance and consequently the spread of disease is a very real threat. UV sterilization should not be used when ponds or aquariums are being treated with antibiotics or when starting a new biological filter. Also, when outdoors, UV sterilizers should be protected from direct effects of the weather, such as rain and freezing. And please remember, always turn off the power when performing routine maintenance on electrical items. We have a a full array of quartz-lined ultraviolet sterilizers available, come in and ask about them today!