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Category: General Aquaria

Ammonia

#1 Killer: Ammonia

The presence of ammonia in aquarium water is the #1 killer of fish. The primary sources of ammonia are the decaying of organic material (primarily uneaten food) and excreted waste from the fishes’ gills.

An ammonia level as low as .5 part per million (ppm) creates stress upon fish compromising the natural immune system. It has been demonstrated with laboratory experiments involving koi (and thus, we assume, equally true with other fish species) that an ammonia level of 2 ppm causes the natural immune system of the fish to cease functioning. The fish does not have the strength to cope with both the ammonia-related stress and disease prevention. As the elevated ammonia level presents the more immediate possibility of death, all of the fishes’ energy must be devoted to combating that threat.

The presence of ammonia any time after the nitrification cycle has completed itself is the fault of the hobbyist and must be corrected. Its reoccurrence is precipitated by (but not limited to):

• Inadequate and/or poorly maintained biological filtration.

• Overfeeding.

• Overcrowding.

• Not performing periodic water changes and gravel vacuuming.

• Allowing dead inhabitants to decay. Ammonia problems can only be corrected by:

• Doing partial water changes and adding ammonia-digesting bacteria (Bio-Booster) until the level present approaches zero;

• By improving your individual hobbyist habits and maintenance skills. Temporary methods of reducing ammonia levels in order of preference include: • Suspending and/or reducing feeding.

• Dosing with Bio-Booster.

• Introducing an ammonia binder into the aquarium (freshwater or pond only)

Super-Sized Aquariums

28014664763_7f50b2aa3b_zIn October, we shared Part one of this article, which covered the science behind the creation of Instant Ocean Sea Salt, as well as insight into their manufacturing operation. We conclude with a look at how Instant Ocean works with some of the largest aquariums around.

Whether they reside in 50 or 500,000 gallon aquariums, marine life require quality product that offers them consistent, healthy conditions. The number one characteristic that those in charge of larger, public aquariums look for is consistency in product. They want to understand that the batch of Instant Ocean they receive today will be the same a year from now, or more, as the animals in their charge have very little tolerance for change, even with the most minor trace element.

 

In fact, Instant Ocean is the world’s most widely used aquarium salt not only at home but also trusted in 75 zoos, aquariums and marine adventure parks, such as: Sea World, Orlando; John G. Shedd Aquarium, Chicago; Wonders of Wildlife Museum, Springfield, IL; Columbus Zoo’s Discovery Reef, OH; Georgia Aquarium, Atlanta (The World’s Largest Aquarium); The Dallas World Aquarium, TX; Underwater Adventure in the Mall of America, Bloomington, MN; Shark Reef at Mandalay Bay, Las Vegas; and many others.

Today, fewer and fewer aquariums have the ability to pump water directly from the ocean, which must still be filtered before use. And, while some still mix their own onsite, others value the consistency of working with manufacturers like Instant Ocean, along with the fact they do not have to store the necessary ingredients and equipment on their own properties.

Surprisingly, changing the water at large aquariums is much the same process as found in the home, just on a super-sized scale. The John G. Shedd Aquarium in Chicago, for instance, has over 750,000 gallons of aquariums. They may perform a monthly water change of 25%, just as most home enthusiasts would do. The aquarium dwellers, including mammals, never leave their environs. Through an elaborate system of brass valves that pump in the new mix while removing the old, a water change can be accomplished in less than one hour. Seeing the operation onsite and at scale showcases a process that is both efficient and impressive.

For over 40 years, the goal of Instant Ocean has been to produce a synthetic sea salt that mimics natural seawater, while providing optimal environments for all marine life. From the start, Instant Ocean was developed and improved upon by devoted scientists and aquarists who have a true passion for the hobby. That remains standard practice at Instant Ocean today and can be seen through its overall product consistency, dedication to innovative manufacturing processes and understanding of aquariums both small and large.

 

by Stan Owens, Division Vice President; Greg Valatka, Director of Operations; Melissa Wright, Quality Engineer, Chemical Products, all from United Pet Group

Part 4d: Dry Food and Nutrition

Dr. Hubert Kuerzinger, Senior Scientist Nutrition,
Tetra Global R&D Center Nutrition

24093377419_21943c2077_zTypes of marine foods
There are a variety of different food types available for feeding marine fish, and it is important to make the right choices to ensure your fish get the balance of nutrition they need. We conclude our series with a discussion on dry food. You may catch up with previous sections on Marine Gel food, frozen food or live food online.

For freshwater fish, dry foods are widely available and generally well- accepted by the fish. For this reason, they form the main part of the diet, with frozen or live foods being offered as treats. The advantage of a high quality dry food is that, provided it is formulated and produced correctly, it will deliver a balanced diet containing everything needed by the fish. This removes the need for feeding lots of different food types, or for trying to supplement the diet (which is never a scientifically accurate process).

Dry foods are also convenient and, if well produced, will result in very little waste. The major drawback is that not all marine fish will eat them, although this situation is improving as more and more diets are reaching the market. As with freshwater fish, marine fish keepers are increasingly being advised to feed a dry food as the main part of the diet, with frozen foods used to provide additional variety.

Through improvements in diets, coupled with better advice on which fish adapt best to dry foods, it is therefore becoming easier to provide a balanced diet to marine fish.

Because feeding marine fish is not always as straightforward as feeding freshwater species, it is important both to check on requirements before purchase, and to ask about what the fish has been fed while in captivity. If you want to keep things simple, choose species that are not overly fussy, and that are likely to take a dry diet.

To see the complete line of Instant Ocean nutritional products, visit www.instantocean.com

Fintastic Largest Aquarium Store in the Carolinas – Salt Water Section

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https://youtu.be/Eoa_iHY0E4k

Thank You from Purcell Residents

Dear Kyle,

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Thank you so much for not only taking the initiative to acquire our new tank decorations, but for always being so attentive in keeping our aquariums looking their best. You’re the best and our residents have never been as excited as they are now when the enjoy the fish. They wanted to thank you with the banner in the picture. Again, thanks for being awesome and we appreciate all you do for us.

Warm Regards,
Dean Quick, Purcell Residents, and the Recreation Therapy / Activities Department

The Wonder of the Aquarium Store – Video of Salt Water Fish and Corals

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Fintastic Largest Aquarium Store in the Carolinas – Fresh Water Section

Thomas Brown interviews the owner of Fintastic – The Aquarium Superstore and explores its fresh water section.

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Not Sure Which Filtration System Is Right For You?

Filtration Types

25748834790_b03a32d784_z (1)Power Filter

The very easy to maintain power filter hangs on the back of the aquarium (easy access). Water is pulled through a mechanical filtration, using floss and insert cartridges. They also provide enough space for chemical filtration media. Within the last few years a wet dry wheel (biowheel) was developed, to provide an even larger area for bacteria to settle.

Internal filters

Internal filters usually are rectangular boxes attached with suckers on a side glass of the tank. They may have two or three sections inside, thought to divide filter materials, pump and sometimes also the water heater.

Canister Filter

A closed canister filter is where water is forced through filtration media(mechanical and/or chemical). This filter is generally placed beside or underneath the aquarium. The canister filter has the most powerful mechanical filtration system, and can be used with messy eaters. The down side is that it requires frequent cleaning. Bacteria will also settle in this filter type. Biological filtration can be improved, by placing wet dry wheels at the outflow of the canister filter.

Wet/dry Filters

Wet/dry filters achieve optimum aquarium conditions through the use of mechanical and biological filtration. These filters out perform other means of filtration and reduce maintenance time. Top mounted input provides more filter positioning options than side mounted inputs. Unique removable foam block wall provides chemical and protein skimmer return area. Slide out drip tray simplifies cleaning filter pad. Sealed top reduces salt creep and quiets filter. Included with filter are bio-balls, foam water polishing block, 36″ drain hose, 60″ return hose and instruction manual. Ideal for fresh or salt water aquariums.

Berlin Reef Sumps

The BERLIN REEF SUMP is designed with the needle wheel skimmer in mind. The sump incorporates a center chamber with a constant water level of 8” where the most popular brands of skimmers can be placed. Mechanical filtration is accomplished through 200 micron filter socks. Area for chemical media and protein skimmer return. Included with filter are foam water polishing block, 2-36″ drain hoses, 60″ return hose, and instruction manual. Ideal for salt or fresh water aquariums.

Refugiums

Refugiums are designed primarily for use on reef tanks but can be used on fish tanks that have adequate biological filtration. Refugiums work on the principal of placing algae and other marine plants in the filter and providing adequate light for them to grow. The algae remove organics, nitrates and other harmful chemicals from the water. As the algae grow, it is harvested and the harmful chemicals are removed from the tank permanently. Deep sand bed keeps nitrate at a safe level. Top mounted input provides more filter positioning options than side mounted inputs. Black refugium walls reduce light scatter and reduce unwanted algae growth in sump area. Micron sock prefiltration produces crystal clear aquarium water. Separate sock and refugium covers simplify sock removal. Refugium lid with light stand offs and light lens reduce heat, evaporation and prevent water from splashing onto light. Algae gate in refugium keeps algae from entering sump. Framed filter top adds rigidity and eliminates warping. Chemical compartment and protein skimmer return area. Included with filter are power compact lighting, refugium cover with lens, sock compartment cover, foam water polishing block, 36″ drain hose, 60″ return hose, and instruction manual. Recommended for saltwater aquariums only.

15 Stresses In The Aquarium And Pond

backyard_pondStress is a condition in which an animal is unable to maintain a normal physiologic state because of various factors adversely affecting its well-being. It is caused by placing a fish in a situation which is beyond its normal level of tolerance. Any aquarium condition that is not good for the inhabitants may cause excess stress, which usually leads to disease and oftentimes, to death. The fifteen most common sources of stress are:

• Improper pH or drastic and/or sudden changes in pH.
• Improper temperature or sudden changes in temperature.
• Improper salinity for short or extended periods of time.
• Physical trauma such as pounding on the tank or sudden movements that scare the tank’s inhabitants.
• Aggressive tank mates. These can cause the fish to withdraw into hiding and miss out on feedings. Harassment or physical attack by tank mates leads to wounds, abrasions and further stress.
• Poor diet. Deficiencies and dietary degenerative diseases are often the cause of loss of older animals.
• High ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, or other toxin levels. A high nitrite level prevents oxygen from reaching the cells and may cause suffocation of brain damage. Detectable ammonia or nitrite is undesirable. For nitrates, there are many factors affecting toxicity and differences among species susceptibility. Keeping nitrate at less than 30 parts per million (ppm) for fish only systems or less than 10 ppm for aquariums with invertebrates are appropriate goals.
• Other toxins – chlorine, copper, detergents, iron, lead, zinc, commercial ammonia, nicotine, perfume/cologne, oil, paint fumes, and insecticides, including contaminants from dog and cat flea collars.
Too little or too much carbon dioxide, especially prevalent in systems that are either overcrowded with life or whose owners mismanage a CO2 infusion system.
• Too much, too little, or irregular periods of light. Too much light (intensity or duration) affects the metabolism of all the livestock; too little light is problematic for photosynthetic invertebrates, plants and algae. All benefit from a standard light interval of about 12 hours.
• Dirty or cloudy water. Cloudy water is usually caused by bacteria. The bacteria in the water may use up all the available oxygen or poison your animals with their metabolites.
• No hiding places to which the inhabitants can retreat to feel safe.
• Infectious and/or parasitic disease-causing organisms.
• Any other sudden changes in the environment.
• Overcrowding.

Overly stressed animals are, by definition, what we consider “sick”. Stressor’s trigger the release of hormones that prompt the animals to fight or flee, and they increase their heart rate, blood circulation, and respiration. In a worst case, continual stress will cause an animal to die of exhaustion. They may also become so weak that their immune systems no longer function, and they will succumb to diseases or conditions that would not normally affect them. Most aquarium systems have a constant supply of fungi, bacteria, and protozoa that have little or no effect on healthy animals. Sufficiently stressed, however, they may fall prey to otherwise non pathogenic organisms. Marine fishes and invertebrates are more dependent on their environment than the terrestrial examples we are more familiar with. The are totally at the mercy of their owners to provide them with proper living conditions.

A Familiar Face in the Charlotte Observer

9991400324_95fa789370_zWith busy summer schedules and families taking their last vacation before school starts, you may have missed seeing your favorite Charlotte fish store and owner, Greg Sowers, featured in The Charlotte Observer.

But have no fear, we have it here! CharlotteObserver.com/Fintastic

We welcome buyers and browsers, near and far, to stop by Fintastic in Arysley Town Shopping Center to experience the wide variety of beautiful exotic fish and accessories with fantastic customer service.

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