Aquarium Maintenance Checklist: Daily

 

§ Visual Inspection of Aquarium Equipment Spend a few minutes each day verifying that your pumps are working properly, that your heater and chiller are fully functional and that your other equipment—calcium reactor, protein skimmer, Ultraviolet Sterilizer, media reactors, Ozonizer—are operating as intended. Perhaps you’re already checking on your lights but it’s a good idea to check on all your hardware, like an auto top-off, once each day. I find the best time to perform the visual inspection of equipment is while I’m feeding my fish and corals.§ Visual Inspection of Aquarium Livestock Look closely at each of your fish for signs of disease (any salt grain looking spots, sores, missing scales, bleeding, etc.) and aggressive wounds (again missing scales caused from another inhabitant that may need to be removed). Scan each coral to see if it is healthy and that there are no “pests” present (red flatworms, red bugs, acro-eating flatworms and harmful Nudibranchs, for example). During feeding while your livestock is out/open is the best time to perform the visual inspection. § Monitor Aquarium Temperature Check tank temperature daily to make sure it is within acceptable parameters.
Monitor Aquarium pH Using a PH controller or monitor really simplifies this chore since all you’ll need to do is check your pH reading vs. doing a traditional water test. Aquatronica, Neptune, etc. manufactures a great line of affordable pH monitors/controllers that we’ve tested and recommend, but there are plenty of others available that are just as high quality, easy to setup and use. Top Off Evaporated Water If you do not use an auto top-off system for your aquarium, you should top off on an often basis to replace evaporated water. This helps keep your aquarium salinity at a stable level. Dose Additives/Supplements Some additives and supplements are intended for daily use. Make sure you maintain a steady dosing regimen to avoid swings in key parameters within your aquarium. Check that all pumps and filters are operating at least once a day. Check that the temperature is correct in the tank at least once a day. Check that all lights are working at least once a day. Check all electrical connections and cords at least once a week.
Aquarium Maintenance Checklist: Weekly

 

§ Water Tests Test important water parameters at least once each week. This includes but is not limited to salinity, calcium, alkalinity, nitrates, phosphates and magnesium. Master or multi-test kits are inexpensive and generally include tests for the parameters most important to keep an eye on.§ Water Change Not everyone is on the weekly water change schedule, but it’s a good rule of thumb to change your water each week or every other week.  Use any high-quality siphon or ask our staff members which one they prefer while performing water changes in the store. For more effective crevice cleaning, use a turkey baster or narrow stream power head (like Cobalt’s Maxi Jet 1200) to blow out any trapped detritus that has accumulated in your rockwork. Then use your siphon to remove it from the tank during your water change. § Clean Protein Skimmer Collection Cup To ensure your protein skimmer is running its best, be sure to drain the collection cup once per week. Of course, every system is different. You may need to clean your cup a little more or less often depending on your aquarium and skimmer.  The skimmer neck should never need cleaning and if accumulations of skimmate occur in the neck or body of the skimmer, then readjust your skimmer level higher so that this does not occur.

 

§ Clean/Scrub Algae from Tank Interior Algae grows quickly in a reef aquarium due to the high lighting requirements. Using a magnetic algae scraper once per week will keep your tank walls algae-free. Most magnetic algae scrapers can be kept inside your aquarium which is not only convenient but also means you never have to get your hands wet while cleaning. If you have a glass aquarium and are dealing with some really stubborn algae growth, try Magfloat’s scraper attachment.If you prefer getting your hands wet, there are certainly alternatives to magnetic algae scrapers. Hand-held algae pads are easy to work with. One of my personal favorites is the Python Algae Mitt. Kent Marine has a popular line of blade-style algae scrapers called Proscrapers that effectively cut through all different types of algae and are available in various sizes and styles. TIP: I use Marineland’s Hang-On Tank Magnum 250 Canister Filter to catch algae that has been scraped loose or a small diameter vinyl tube.  The included micron cartridge catches algae so you can easily remove it from the tank. The cartridges are reusable and include instructions for cleaning. They are also great for catching the detritus blown off live rock. They can be used on tanks of all sizes to help maintain pristine water quality.  Additionally, the Cobalt hang-on maintenance filter works exceptionally well or even us a small diameter vinyl tube to a sewer or bucket. § Wipe Down Tank Exterior Using glass or acrylic polishes and/or wipes makes wiping down your tank exterior a simple chore that will only take a minute or two to complete. Polishes also help prevent fingerprints and water spots from forming on the exterior of your aquarium.  Never use Windex or any chemical based product as this can kill your aquarium. Clean Filter Socks/Filter Pads Filter socks and pads can become clogged rather quickly. Detritus and leftover food trapped in a filter sock or pad will eventually lower water quality. Most filter socks are reusable and can be cleaned using a mild bleach solution.  Never use soap.  Rinse thoroughly using a powerful stream of water to loosen trapped detritus. Allow the sock to dry before reuse. Stock several filter socks so you can rotate them out without having any downtime.  Clean other filter media regularly, or replace as necessary. For power filters and corner filters, the media and water flow should be checked every couple of weeks. For other external filters, check the water flow weekly, but you can probably check the media monthly. Of course, if the filter manufacturer recommends checking more often, follow their instructions.TIP: Don’t forget to rinse new filter socks before use. There is a residual chemical left on the socks from the manufacturing process that, while harmless to the tank, can cause excessive foaming/bubbling within the aquarium and make your protein skimmer foam over. § Check Auto Top-Off Reservoir Verify the water level in your auto top-off reservoir is adequate. You do not want to allow the auto top-off pump to run dry. There are also ATO’s (Automatic Top Off units) that will protect you pump by shutting off when the reservoir water level drops too low.  You may adjust the frequency of this duty depending on the size of your reservoir and time of year (evaporation rates vary throughout the year). Checking the reservoir weekly is a good place to start. Aquarium Maintenance Checklist: 1-2 Months

 

§ Clean Pumps and Powerheads I have several pumps performing various jobs for my aquarium system. To keep things simple, I’ll clean a few pumps one month and then clean the remainder the following month. To remove coralline algae from aquarium pumps/powerheads I soak them in an Equipment Cleaner and use a brush kit to clean the impeller and housing. Don’t forget to clean the pumps being used with skimmers, chillers and reactors. Keeping your pumps and powerheads clean will make them last and perform like new.§ Change Carbon and/or Phosphate Media Carbon and phosphate media should be changed about once per month when using a very high quality media. Using a media reactor (like Two Little Fishies Phosban Reactor, Vertex media reactor, MRC media reactor) for carbon or phosphate media (GFO – Granulated Feric Oxide) not only makes changing out the media easier, it maximizes the potential of the media itself by preventing the water from bypassing it.

§ Water Change Perhaps we’re not all weekly water changers. But the longest a reef aquarium should go without a water change is one month.  I prefer a 10-15% water change every other week or a 25% water change monthly.  This assumes very high quality filtration.  Your test kits will let you know if this is adequate.§ Clean and Calibrate Probes (pH in particular) Use a soft-bristle toothbrush to clean probes. Gently brush the tip of the probe to get rid of anything that has built-up or accumulated on it. Soaking in white vinegar can also be acceptable.  Recalibrate the probe afterward to ensure it is still providing accurate readings. Aquarium Maintenance Checklist: 6-12 Months

 

§ Clean Return Pump The impeller on your return pump will undoubtedly accumulate some slime or calcium build-up during a 6-12 month stretch that will reduce its efficiency. Get that pump in like-new condition by taking it apart every 6-12 months and cleaning the gunk out. This will extend the life of the pump and enable it to push the maximum amount of water it was intended to.  You can use vinegar to soak the parts, but sometimes you will need to use a commercial soaking solution to achieve “like new condition”.§ Replace Aquarium Light Bulbs Depending on the type of bulbs you are running over your reef, it might be time to replace your bulbs. If you are not sure how frequently to change your aquarium light bulbs, this is a very general guideline: 6 months for any T-12 VHO bulb 9 months for mogul socket halide 9 months for T-5 HO bulbs 12 months for HQI halide LED is manufacturer specific, so either follow their guidelines or no longer than 30,000 hours if unknown or 50,000 period. Calcium Reactor Maintenance It may be time to top off or replace your calcium reactor media. You should also check the level of CO2 in your CO2 tank. Better yet, keep an extra CO2 tank full to prevent downtime and rush trips out to get the tank refilled.  Never let the media in the reactor get below 1/3 of the original level.  When it has dropped to this level, throw away the remaining media due to its softness and replace with new.  The media will get soft once it has been subjected to low pH for over 9 months.  Always us a blend of Carib Sea’s Course ARM and a magnesium rock like Brightwell’s Magnesium. All other water pumps Clean the impeller assembly on any water pump at least once a year, and make sure to oil external water pumps as necessary based on the manufacturer’s instructions.

§ Replace RO or RO/DI Filter Media Most reverse osmosis equipment manufacturers recommend replacing the sediment, carbon and DI cartridges every 6 months depending on individual use. Keep a journal to log your replacement schedule and/or use a TDS meter to determine when it’s time to make a change to the DI and/or RO membrane. Your RO membrane will last about two years; with the addition of a flush valve it may last three or four.§ Replace Monitor Controller Probes Probes to monitor pH, ORP, Salinity, etc. generally last 12-18 months. If your probes become difficult to calibrate or go out of calibration quickly, it’s time to replace them.

 

In October, we shared Part one of this article, which covered the science behind the creation of Instant Ocean Sea Salt, as well as insight into their manufacturing operation. We conclude with a look at how Instant Ocean works with some of the largest aquariums around.

Whether they reside in 50 or 500,000 gallon aquariums, marine life require quality product that offers them consistent, healthy conditions. The number one characteristic that those in charge of larger, public aquariums look for is consistency in product. They want to understand that the batch of Instant Ocean they receive today will be the same a year from now, or more, as the animals in their charge have very little tolerance for change, even with the most minor trace element.

 

In fact, Instant Ocean is the world’s most widely used aquarium salt not only at home but also trusted in 75 zoos, aquariums and marine adventure parks, such as: Sea World, Orlando; John G. Shedd Aquarium, Chicago; Wonders of Wildlife Museum, Springfield, IL; Columbus Zoo’s Discovery Reef, OH; Georgia Aquarium, Atlanta (The World’s Largest Aquarium); The Dallas World Aquarium, TX; Underwater Adventure in the Mall of America, Bloomington, MN; Shark Reef at Mandalay Bay, Las Vegas; and many others.

Today, fewer and fewer aquariums have the ability to pump water directly from the ocean, which must still be filtered before use. And, while some still mix their own onsite, others value the consistency of working with manufacturers like Instant Ocean, along with the fact they do not have to store the necessary ingredients and equipment on their own properties.

Surprisingly, changing the water at large aquariums is much the same process as found in the home, just on a super-sized scale. The John G. Shedd Aquarium in Chicago, for instance, has over 750,000 gallons of aquariums. They may perform a monthly water change of 25%, just as most home enthusiasts would do. The aquarium dwellers, including mammals, never leave their environs. Through an elaborate system of brass valves that pump in the new mix while removing the old, a water change can be accomplished in less than one hour. Seeing the operation onsite and at scale showcases a process that is both efficient and impressive.

For over 40 years, the goal of Instant Ocean has been to produce a synthetic sea salt that mimics natural seawater, while providing optimal environments for all marine life. From the start, Instant Ocean was developed and improved upon by devoted scientists and aquarists who have a true passion for the hobby. That remains standard practice at Instant Ocean today and can be seen through its overall product consistency, dedication to innovative manufacturing processes and understanding of aquariums both small and large.

 

by Stan Owens, Division Vice President; Greg Valatka, Director of Operations; Melissa Wright, Quality Engineer, Chemical Products, all from United Pet Group

Dr. Hubert Kuerzinger, Senior Scientist Nutrition,
Tetra Global R&D Center Nutrition

Types of marine foods
There are a variety of different food types available for feeding marine fish, and it is important to make the right choices to ensure your fish get the balance of nutrition they need. We conclude our series with a discussion on dry food. You may catch up with previous sections on Marine Gel food, frozen food or live food online.

For freshwater fish, dry foods are widely available and generally well- accepted by the fish. For this reason, they form the main part of the diet, with frozen or live foods being offered as treats. The advantage of a high quality dry food is that, provided it is formulated and produced correctly, it will deliver a balanced diet containing everything needed by the fish. This removes the need for feeding lots of different food types, or for trying to supplement the diet (which is never a scientifically accurate process).

Dry foods are also convenient and, if well produced, will result in very little waste. The major drawback is that not all marine fish will eat them, although this situation is improving as more and more diets are reaching the market. As with freshwater fish, marine fish keepers are increasingly being advised to feed a dry food as the main part of the diet, with frozen foods used to provide additional variety.

Through improvements in diets, coupled with better advice on which fish adapt best to dry foods, it is therefore becoming easier to provide a balanced diet to marine fish.

Because feeding marine fish is not always as straightforward as feeding freshwater species, it is important both to check on requirements before purchase, and to ask about what the fish has been fed while in captivity. If you want to keep things simple, choose species that are not overly fussy, and that are likely to take a dry diet.

To see the complete line of Instant Ocean nutritional products, visit www.instantocean.com

 

Thomas Brown interviews the owner of Fintastic – The Aquarium Superstore and explores its fresh water section.

Filtration Types

Power Filter

The very easy to maintain power filter hangs on the back of the aquarium (easy access). Water is pulled through a mechanical filtration, using floss and insert cartridges. They also provide enough space for chemical filtration media. Within the last few years a wet dry wheel (biowheel) was developed, to provide an even larger area for bacteria to settle.

Internal filters

Internal filters usually are rectangular boxes attached with suckers on a side glass of the tank. They may have two or three sections inside, thought to divide filter materials, pump and sometimes also the water heater.

Canister Filter

A closed canister filter is where water is forced through filtration media(mechanical and/or chemical). This filter is generally placed beside or underneath the aquarium. The canister filter has the most powerful mechanical filtration system, and can be used with messy eaters. The down side is that it requires frequent cleaning. Bacteria will also settle in this filter type. Biological filtration can be improved, by placing wet dry wheels at the outflow of the canister filter.

Wet/dry Filters

Wet/dry filters achieve optimum aquarium conditions through the use of mechanical and biological filtration. These filters out perform other means of filtration and reduce maintenance time. Top mounted input provides more filter positioning options than side mounted inputs. Unique removable foam block wall provides chemical and protein skimmer return area. Slide out drip tray simplifies cleaning filter pad. Sealed top reduces salt creep and quiets filter. Included with filter are bio-balls, foam water polishing block, 36″ drain hose, 60″ return hose and instruction manual. Ideal for fresh or salt water aquariums.

Berlin Reef Sumps

The BERLIN REEF SUMP is designed with the needle wheel skimmer in mind. The sump incorporates a center chamber with a constant water level of 8” where the most popular brands of skimmers can be placed. Mechanical filtration is accomplished through 200 micron filter socks. Area for chemical media and protein skimmer return. Included with filter are foam water polishing block, 2-36″ drain hoses, 60″ return hose, and instruction manual. Ideal for salt or fresh water aquariums.

Refugiums

Refugiums are designed primarily for use on reef tanks but can be used on fish tanks that have adequate biological filtration. Refugiums work on the principal of placing algae and other marine plants in the filter and providing adequate light for them to grow. The algae remove organics, nitrates and other harmful chemicals from the water. As the algae grow, it is harvested and the harmful chemicals are removed from the tank permanently. Deep sand bed keeps nitrate at a safe level. Top mounted input provides more filter positioning options than side mounted inputs. Black refugium walls reduce light scatter and reduce unwanted algae growth in sump area. Micron sock prefiltration produces crystal clear aquarium water. Separate sock and refugium covers simplify sock removal. Refugium lid with light stand offs and light lens reduce heat, evaporation and prevent water from splashing onto light. Algae gate in refugium keeps algae from entering sump. Framed filter top adds rigidity and eliminates warping. Chemical compartment and protein skimmer return area. Included with filter are power compact lighting, refugium cover with lens, sock compartment cover, foam water polishing block, 36″ drain hose, 60″ return hose, and instruction manual. Recommended for saltwater aquariums only.

Stress is a condition in which an animal is unable to maintain a normal physiologic state because of various factors adversely affecting its well-being. It is caused by placing a fish in a situation which is beyond its normal level of tolerance. Any aquarium condition that is not good for the inhabitants may cause excess stress, which usually leads to disease and oftentimes, to death. The fifteen most common sources of stress are:

• Improper pH or drastic and/or sudden changes in pH.
• Improper temperature or sudden changes in temperature.
• Improper salinity for short or extended periods of time.
• Physical trauma such as pounding on the tank or sudden movements that scare the tank’s inhabitants.
• Aggressive tank mates. These can cause the fish to withdraw into hiding and miss out on feedings. Harassment or physical attack by tank mates leads to wounds, abrasions and further stress.
• Poor diet. Deficiencies and dietary degenerative diseases are often the cause of loss of older animals.
• High ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, or other toxin levels. A high nitrite level prevents oxygen from reaching the cells and may cause suffocation of brain damage. Detectable ammonia or nitrite is undesirable. For nitrates, there are many factors affecting toxicity and differences among species susceptibility. Keeping nitrate at less than 30 parts per million (ppm) for fish only systems or less than 10 ppm for aquariums with invertebrates are appropriate goals.
• Other toxins – chlorine, copper, detergents, iron, lead, zinc, commercial ammonia, nicotine, perfume/cologne, oil, paint fumes, and insecticides, including contaminants from dog and cat flea collars.
Too little or too much carbon dioxide, especially prevalent in systems that are either overcrowded with life or whose owners mismanage a CO2 infusion system.
• Too much, too little, or irregular periods of light. Too much light (intensity or duration) affects the metabolism of all the livestock; too little light is problematic for photosynthetic invertebrates, plants and algae. All benefit from a standard light interval of about 12 hours.
• Dirty or cloudy water. Cloudy water is usually caused by bacteria. The bacteria in the water may use up all the available oxygen or poison your animals with their metabolites.
• No hiding places to which the inhabitants can retreat to feel safe.
• Infectious and/or parasitic disease-causing organisms.
• Any other sudden changes in the environment.
• Overcrowding.

Overly stressed animals are, by definition, what we consider “sick”. Stressor’s trigger the release of hormones that prompt the animals to fight or flee, and they increase their heart rate, blood circulation, and respiration. In a worst case, continual stress will cause an animal to die of exhaustion. They may also become so weak that their immune systems no longer function, and they will succumb to diseases or conditions that would not normally affect them. Most aquarium systems have a constant supply of fungi, bacteria, and protozoa that have little or no effect on healthy animals. Sufficiently stressed, however, they may fall prey to otherwise non pathogenic organisms. Marine fishes and invertebrates are more dependent on their environment than the terrestrial examples we are more familiar with. The are totally at the mercy of their owners to provide them with proper living conditions.

With busy summer schedules and families taking their last vacation before school starts, you may have missed seeing your favorite Charlotte fish store and owner, Greg Sowers, featured in The Charlotte Observer.

But have no fear, we have it here! CharlotteObserver.com/Fintastic

We welcome buyers and browsers, near and far, to stop by Fintastic in Arysley Town Shopping Center to experience the wide variety of beautiful exotic fish and accessories with fantastic customer service.

A very rare gold flake angel is eating hikari plankton in a tank at Fintastic.

Studies have shown that gazing at aquarium fish reduces stress and subsequently lowers blood pressure. Due to their graceful swimming, color and elegant physical appearances, aquarium fish have become creatures that are very pleasing to our eyes. The peaceful nature and attractiveness of an aquarium has been shown to also significantly reduce stress and blood pressure levels. Even gazing at a decorative fish-less tank has proven to assist in reducing stress and high blood pressure. The more attractive your tank is, the bigger the health benefits will be. Here are some health benefits to look at:

Aquarium Benefits Alzheimer’s
Alzheimer patients ate more, and required fewer supplements after an aquarium was placed in the dining room. They also exhibited less physically aggressive behaviors.

Therapeutic
The therapeutic use of pets as companions has gained increasing attention in recent years for a wide variety of patients -people with AIDS or cancer, the elderly, and the mentally ill. Animals provide a constant source of comfort and focus for attention. Animals bring out our nurturing instinct. They also make us feel safe and unconditionally accepted. We can just be ourselves around our pets.

Heart Attacks
Research has shown that heart attack victims who have pets live longer.

Whether it’s a saltwater aquarium, or a freshwater aquarium, watching those beautiful fish going about their daily business is great for your stress levels and your blood pressure.  Numerous studies have shown that watching aquarium fish can make you feel calm, reducing feelings of anxiety and so help bring down your blood pressure.  Now we know why so many doctor’s and dentist’s waiting rooms have aquariums; you’ll feel that bit more chilled by the time you get to see your physician.