Fungiidae
Common names: disc coral, plate coral, tongue coral, fungia, mushroom coral
Natural origin: Indo-Pacific
Sensitivity (Level 1 to 3): Sensitivity depends on genus and species. Species from the genus Fungia are generally tolerant and tend to have excellent success rates among aquarists. Heliofungia species (often distinguished by their long tentacles) have a reputation for being much harder to care for and experience relatively poor success rates in aquaria.
Feeding: These corals have strong prey capture ability and can feed on chunky, meaty marine foods. The size of the food should fit the size of the coral’s polyp mouth or mouths.
Lighting (Level 5 to 8): These corals can adapt to a range of lighting conditions, but most need at least moderate lighting for good health and growth. As always, proper acclimation to new lighting conditions is important. Water flow: They do well in areas of moderate water flow.
Placement: These corals should be placed on a flat surface (sand beds are usually best, but gravel and bare bottoms will do). They can be a bit aggressive, so please give a little room.
General: These corals can be quite dynamic. They can move independently across flat surfaces (even up to several inches overnight) and can sometimes even flip themselves over after falling upside down. Tentacles usually come out at night, but in captivity they can come out during the day too (or instead). In healthy tanks, they can show remarkable recovery from injury or disease. They’re also known for occasionally producing babies called “anthocauli” upon their death.
Sensitivity:
Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.
Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.
Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.
Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.
Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists.
Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.
Lighting Scale (approximations):
Level 0 – no light
…
Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting
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Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting
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Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting
Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)
Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)
…
Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)
Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.
It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.
Acclimation:
Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.
Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.
Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.
Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).
Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.
To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.
General “Disclaimer”
These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.